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THE BRAKE HAS BEEN STUCK ON FOR 28 YEARS - WHATS THE BEST TRICKS TO WORK IT FREE???
ITS BEEN HELD IN THIS POSITION FROM 28 YEARS - THE BACK WHEELS WILL NOT SPIN- ANY IDEA ON HOW TO BREAK IT LOOSE?
TTPS?
TRICKS?
SHEER KNOW HOW!
MY BEST GUESS - TRY THIS
THE BRAKE HAS BEEN STUCK ON FOR 28 YEARS - WHATS THE BEST TRICKS TO WORK IT FREE???
ITS BEEN HELD IN THIS POSITION FROM 28 YEARS - THE BACK WHEELS WILL NOT SPIN- ANY IDEA ON HOW TO BREAK IT LOOSE?
TTPS?
TRICKS?
SHEER KNOW HOW!
MY BEST GUESS - TRY THIS
Work from the front to the back on the cables. Soak them down with PB Blaster at each spot the cable enters the sheath and the adjuster through the hole. Spray down the linkage under the console and lube the button, wipe off any excess immediately. Let it sit a day and try to work the handle up and down. If you get it to move a little try up, down, up, down. Soak it down again. Keep at it. It will free up. Could be the brake shoes seized in the inner drum of the rear discs but you can't get the discs off until you take the pressure off the shoes. You can disconnect the rear cable at the backing plate and back off the adjuster if it will move. http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...brake-rebuild/
I should be able to get the handle to go down by pulling back slightly on it and pressing down on the button and it should go down. IF not..reply to this.
THEN... I would remove the rear wheels...cut the cable going to the parking brake assemblies in each wheel. This cross-over cable si knwo to seize over time....so it is no big loss....unless you like to spend time on waintg for penetrating oil to possible work...adn in that area where teh wire housing are located....good luck on that one.
Then the rear caliper would have to come off. Remove the cable end from the lever on the backside of the dust shield at the top. See if this lever will move. IF not...you really have a problem on your hands.
If you get it to that point....and the rotors are still riveted to the spindles...reply to this post with you findings. I have been down this road before...several times.
I should be able to get the handle to go down by pulling back slightly on it and pressing down on the button and it should go down. IF not..reply to this.
THEN... I would remove the rear wheels...cut the cable going to the parking brake assemblies in each wheel. This cross-over cable si knwo to seize over time....so it is no big loss....unless you like to spend time on waintg for penetrating oil to possible work...adn in that area where teh wire housing are located....good luck on that one.
Then the rear caliper would have to come off. Remove the cable end from the lever on the backside of the dust shield at the top. See if this lever will move. IF not...you really have a problem on your hands.
If you get it to that point....and the rotors are still riveted to the spindles...reply to this post with you findings. I have been down this road before...several times.
DUB
back whee;s off todau they are not the original riveted rotorrs
One thing I learned as a GM Tech, never set the parking brake when working on a customer car. Why? Most of the time, people never use it, and when YOU do, it seizes up, giving you the opportunity to donate about 20 minutes of free time getting it freed up.
One thing I learned as a GM Tech, never set the parking brake when working on a customer car. Why? Most of the time, people never use it, and when YOU do, it seizes up, giving you the opportunity to donate about 20 minutes of free time getting it freed up.
YEAH...I AGREE...and 20 minutes is being kind. I do not pull them up for any reason unless it is due to being an area of inspection for the State or the customer wants it to work. This area can be a serious 'can of worms' if problems develop.
Parking break stuck on
