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I have a 3.55 diff head that I want to use to replace the 3.08 fitted. The crown wheel and pinion are good but the half shaft end float is 25 thou. Can this be corrected to the suggested 5 - 10 thou by replacing the posi clutches and re shimming without disturbing the crown wheel and pinion or should I just run it as is?
The half shaft inner ends look good and the circlips are in place.
Clearance between the half shaft inner ends and the centre pin in the posi unit is almost nil < 2 thou.
I have a 3.55 diff head that I want to use to replace the 3.08 fitted. The crown wheel and pinion are good but the half shaft end float is 25 thou. Can this be corrected to the suggested 5 - 10 thou by replacing the posi clutches and re shimming without disturbing the crown wheel and pinion or should I just run it as is?
The half shaft inner ends look good and the circlips are in place.
Clearance between the half shaft inner ends and the centre pin in the posi unit is almost nil < 2 thou.
C clip might be worn. Clutch pack is likely worn. End of yoke is likely worn. All added up = .025 is minimal, I would run it unless you want to do a complete rebuild.
I'm getting back to working on this diff. My main concern is the half shafts hitting the centre pin, the circlips are good, so wear is in the clutch packs or the half shafts or both. What happens if I have the half shafts metal sprayed on the yolk ends to build them up and reduce the clearance?
I'm getting back to working on this diff. My main concern is the half shafts hitting the centre pin, the circlips are good, so wear is in the clutch packs or the half shafts or both. What happens if I have the half shafts metal sprayed on the yolk ends to build them up and reduce the clearance?
side yokes are designed to ride on that center pin.
Hi Redvetracr, that seems odd to me I would have thought that any side load should be borne by the bearing where the yoke would be pressing against it. Is there any reference that I can read up on as to the pin being the point where the load is taken up? Not saying you are wrong just trying to learn as much as I can before I do a diff swap.
Redvetracr is correct. When going in a straight line the yoke end and the pin are rotating the same speed, so no wear or friction. The only time they turn at different speeds is during a turn when one wheel must travel slightly faster than the other. The spindle/wheel assembly pushes against the half shaft, which in turn pushes the side yoke inward, the center pin is the contact area.
I would not install something with that much slop in it. Play causes accelerated ware. You probably need the before mentioned yokes and or possibly the posi unit. When yokes ware it puts a lot of metal in the oil
There is no wear other than the 25 thou of clearance between the C clip and the gear or in other words between the yoke shaft and the pin at full extension. When the shaft is pushed towards the pin it is just touching. There are no marks on the pin and the end of the yoke is unworn also. I'm going to pull the yokes out and have a better look.
There is no wear other than the 25 thou of clearance between the C clip and the gear or in other words between the yoke shaft and the pin at full extension. When the shaft is pushed towards the pin it is just touching. There are no marks on the pin and the end of the yoke is unworn also. I'm going to pull the yokes out and have a better look.
Maybe .025 isn't that much. The yokes ware against the posi units central pin. Stock yokes ware pretty fast when they have high side loads, like sticky tires going around turns
If I was doing a rebuild or going to put it to extreme use, I would make it tighter, but if that's all that is wrong with it, it has a lot of years and miles left in it.
Thought I would advise the outcome with this diff. I had the half shafts modified with hardened button inserts in the ends so that they will wear better (this is what truck diffs have in them). The buttons sit 12 thou proud of ends of the shafts so this decreased the clearance as well. I fitted new oil seals, a drain plug, Castrol 80-90 weight limited slip oil and Wynns friction modifier for posi diffs (this is what the GM dealer uses here) GM stuff not available here. Everything seems to be working well and the 3.55 diff is a better ratio to work with the 200R4 than the 3.08 at least on the hilly terrain hereabouts. I'm keeping the 3.08 in case I ever change the motor to a 383 which could better cope with this gear.