When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What amazes me is when you look at the photo's in the link.
I see absolutely NOTHING done about making sure the rust that you can still see before the patch goes in place. There are procedures and chemicals that can aid in stopping the rust that is able to be seen.
It looks like areas were and blasted...but no coatings applied to the steel where it is being lapped. Guess what is going to happen?
20 mercury,
If you want to post photos... great...if not...oh well.
What amazes me is when you look at the photo's in the link.
I see absolutely NOTHING done about making sure the rust that you can still see before the patch goes in place. There are procedures and chemicals that can aid in stopping the rust that is able to be seen.
It looks like areas were and blasted...but no coatings applied to the steel where it is being lapped. Guess what is going to happen?
20 mercury,
If you want to post photos... great...if not...oh well.
DUB
Yeah that does seem strange. I would have at least treated it with rust remover. Maybe poured something into the channels later on. He's a pretty friendly fellow. If anyone is interested he has a forum attached to his web site. Could always ask him if he did anything not shown in the photos.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Looks like u have the easy stuff uncovered. Any decent body shop can weld in replacement patches for that exposed stuff. Thats as easy as it gets for them.
U really need to open the body mount inspection covers behind the floor vents and the rear wheel wells in front of the rear tires. This is where water runs down to and collects around the body mounts. The vendors sell the mount plates that run under the door sills and connect the birdcage front and rear. U will have to lift the body to replace those plates though.
Looks like u have the easy stuff uncovered. Any decent body shop can weld in replacement patches for that exposed stuff. Thats as easy as it gets for them.
U really need to open the body mount inspection covers behind the floor vents and the rear wheel wells in front of the rear tires. This is where water runs down to and collects around the body mounts. The vendors sell the mount plates that run under the door sills and connect the birdcage front and rear. U will have to lift the body to replace those plates though.
Yes 16 gauge is 1/16" thick steel.
Yep, I think I got off fairly good on the windshield frame, back side all good. Interesting to me is a lot of C3's have some damage behind the windshield that owners do not know about and you won't know until you take the windshield out. Case in point, I could see the passenger side vertical front pillar rust hole before I opened it up and I thought that was the only place, oh well, better to get it all fixed now!
And yes already checked behind the kick panels and elsewhere and it is very good.
If you want my opinion. And I hope you know this is what I do for a living, IF your car were in my shop. I would NOT patch in any metal along the top. It needs a new piece of frame. The top right corner gusset...it needs to be replaced also. PERIOD! A pain in the backside...YES...but it is... WHAT IT IS. Obviously the choice is yours. There is so much rust on the inside of the top frame section...it would be a total waste of time to try to save it....especially with the fact that they are available.
On the right pillar post...where the hole is at the joint. Knowing that you can get the inner and outer pillar post metal pieces...I would cut out the outer one ...clean up the inner one so all rust is gone...then weld in a new piece.
This windshield frame is NO WHERE as bad as some that I have had in my shop. And I am aware that there are 'other ways' of fixing this. The 'trick' is finding a way that actually fixes it and not just doing a 'patch job' on it....unless you can live with it being like that...and it possible coming back on you again. That is why my way of thinking makes it so I do not have to do it twice.
just a note to everyone, Never let rain get on your dash , water will find its way through and even though there are drain holes in there water can get trapped. after a couple times you can have an issue.
With all those those open holes your #2 mount area & rail is probably rough from water intrusion through the birdcage which leaves question on the condition of the lower windshield corners. Lower windshield corners = removing front clip.
Been there, done that. Ended up with a new firewall back body / birdcage.
Good luck! Hopefully your is better then anticipated.
With all those those open holes your #2 mount area & rail is probably rough from water intrusion through the birdcage which leaves question on the condition of the lower windshield corners. Lower windshield corners = removing front clip.
Been there, done that. Ended up with a new firewall back body / birdcage.
Good luck! Hopefully your is better then anticipated.
I was just seeing how this was going to 'play out'. Replacing steel parts or patching. That will set the 'tone'.
I would like to see the condition of the inside of the dash hinge post area at the top on BOTH sides. I bet the right side is showing signs of 'worms'. Also the condition of the body mount bolts INSIDE the hinge post area is also a good indicator.
Much thanks for the advice. I am taking it to a mechanic buddy of mine this Sat who has done a number of birdcage repairs so we will see. Good to know sections are available.
birdcage repair question
