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Gauge cluster connectors - please check my work!

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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 04:09 PM
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Default Gauge cluster connectors - please check my work!

Thanks in advance for any guidance, suggestions, or whatever!

1980 original dash harness, crate 350 but with electric choke, AC, etc

So I am pulling all gauges and installing digital ones from Intellitronix. I am about to start making custom connectors to make installation easier, and I need to verify my wiring of the existing connectors.

I have the nice big printout from Lectric Limited and have spent some time tracing each wire with a magnifying glass and here is what I have.




So some questions....

1. What is with the 2 brown wires? should I connect both to the volts gauge? I think one is supposed to illuminate the GEN light but that won't be needed.

2. Headlight green wire - I am guessing "high beam Indicator" - any ideas?

3. Does the choke wire need to be connected to something else?

4. My new gauges will always be illuminated so I will provide power to them from Pink 12v from the center cluster. That 12v is always on, right?

5. Anything else I should be aware of?

thanks again - holler if I did not clearly explain anything

Pat
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by finallygotit
So some questions....
Now with you having a wiring diagram...ALL answers to your questions are in it. You have to trace them out like we all do. i can help but I do not have my wiring diagram here at home.

Originally Posted by finallygotit
1. What is with the 2 brown wires? should I connect both to the volts gauge? I think one is supposed to illuminate the GEN light but that won't be needed.
I can not answer that until I look.

Originally Posted by finallygotit
2. Headlight green wire - I am guessing "high beam Indicator" - any ideas?
YES

Originally Posted by finallygotit
3. Does the choke wire need to be connected to something else?
I do not know what you mean by that???

Originally Posted by finallygotit
4. My new gauges will always be illuminated so I will provide power to them from Pink 12v from the center cluster. That 12v is always on, right?
NO...that pink wire is HOT when the key is ON. And that will also depend on how many amps the lights in these gauges draw...because you can possibly overload this circuit and thus blow the fuse...because I do not know if the lights in your gauges are LED's or not. You may wan to call them and find out how much they draw or test them yourself. I have to do this often...and with the correct test equipment ...it is a snap.

Originally Posted by finallygotit
5. Anything else I should be aware of?
Just be aware of what you are doing...and do not use one color of wire when you wire this in so if a problem occurs you can identify it quickly. ALSO..do yourself a BIG FAVOR and DRAW out the wiring diagram that you are not creating by putting these gauges in. it will pay off in the long run if you have a problem..and write special notes if needed. I do this also quite often....it DOES pay off when finding a problem.

Originally Posted by finallygotit
thanks again - holler if I did not clearly explain anything

Pat
Pat...Just make sure that whatever you do.... STOP and take time to really THINK THINGS out on what you are doing and do not travel down the path if 'quick and easy'. So if soldering connections or using special quick disconnects may take longer to install initially...but building your gauges into the housing and having all wires bolted to them will make it a NIGHTMARE if you have to take it back out in the future. Stop and make it 'idiot proof' and easy to remove. I have to repair bad installs quite often and I cuss like a sailor due to the lack of effort when these things were installed. So solder and shrink wrap tubing are going to be your friend.

The gray wire IN BOTH connectors is for the gauge lighting when your headlight switch is turned on.

DUB
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 06:55 PM
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Dub - much thanks for your insight


NO...that pink wire is HOT when the key is ON. And that will also depend on how many amps the lights in these gauges draw...because you can possibly overload this circuit and thus blow the fuse...because I do not know if the lights in your gauges are LED's or not. You may wan to call them and find out how much they draw or test them yourself. I have to do this often...and with the correct test equipment ...it is a snap.
Sorry - I should have stated they were LED's but it doesn't say how much of a draw so I will call them to find out.

Just be aware of what you are doing...and do not use one color of wire when you wire this in so if a problem occurs you can identify it quickly. ALSO..do yourself a BIG FAVOR and DRAW out the wiring diagram that you are not creating by putting these gauges in. it will pay off in the long run if you have a problem..and write special notes if needed. I do this also quite often....it DOES pay off when finding a problem.
Working on the diagram now.



STOP and take time to really THINK THINGS out on what you are doing and do not travel down the path if 'quick and easy'. So if soldering connections or using special quick disconnects may take longer to install initially...but building your gauges into the housing and having all wires bolted to them will make it a NIGHTMARE if you have to take it back out in the future. Stop and make it 'idiot proof' and easy to remove. I have to repair bad installs quite often and I cuss like a sailor due to the lack of effort when these things were installed. So solder and shrink wrap tubing are going to be your friend.
I am soldering the cut wires to a male plug, and the leads off of the cluster to a female. The leads will go to several terminal strips, which is what the gauges will get wired to.

This is the kit I got and I am sort of borrowing from his technique. Feel free to offer a more proven solution!

The gray wire IN BOTH connectors is for the gauge lighting when your headlight switch is turned on.
Thank you! I was unsure which wire did that and I need to wire that into the "dim" wiring. Awesome.

Please do not think I have not considered the significance of this project. I am taking my time and want it to turn out right!
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 05:07 PM
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Need to see how it is getting connected...if you care for an opinion.

LED's draw very little current in most cases...you should be fine.

DUB
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 10:27 PM
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Just closing the loop - thanks to DUB for all of his "illuminating" assistance







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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 09:25 PM
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That came out excellent!! I can't wait to see the finished interior
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by qwank
That came out excellent!! I can't wait to see the finished interior
thanks

getting there...



I have a restomod thread I really need to update so you could probably see more there
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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VERY IMPRESSED.....and from me...that says a lot! Because I rarely get impressed when upgrades are installed.

DUB
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
VERY IMPRESSED.....and from me...that says a lot! Because I rarely get impressed when upgrades are installed.

DUB


seriously, thanks again for the help (here and on other threads). The Army taught me that doing something stupid because you were afraid to sound stupid asking for help was a no go. Glad to know I can get advice from experts.

I uploaded a video of my testing the Parrot Smart with the corvette sound bar I installed...turn your speakers down!!!

https://vimeo.com/112130293

cheers
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