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On my 73, I have all my lights( head, tail, running, turn signals, backup, and interior lights) Even the bright light indicator works
when I turn my headlights from dim to bright. My problem is that I don't have dash lights. I can dial the light switch and my interior
lights come on, but still no dash lights.
I replaced all the fuses with new ones, but still no lights.
Also I don't have power to my radio, wipers or fan with the key switch turned on or on acc.
I have found this brown wire under the dash on the right side of the steering column and can't see where or if it needs connected.
...I don't have dash lights. I can dial the light switch and my interior lights come on, but still no dash lights.
I replaced all the fuses with new ones, but still no lights...
Bad rheostat on the light switch. You'll need a replacement switch.
...I have found this brown wire under the dash on the right side of the steering column and can't see where or if it needs connected...
Probably Accessory Fused. Could be AT kick down or (maybe) power windows. Have you checked the AIM options section?
Donnie, the brown wire connects to a noise capaciter bolted to the steering column near the blue switch. If you have a modern radio you most likely don't need it
Nick
Donnie, the brown wire connects to a noise capaciter bolted to the steering column near the blue switch. If you have a modern radio you most likely don't need it
Nick
Thanks Nick,
I saw the capacitor. I just didn't think about the brown wire connecting to the black one. Yes, I have the original radio and I can see they connect now.
That answers two questions, the brown wire and why my dash lights don't work.
Now I need to find the problem with the power to all the accessories that work with the key on. (Radio, wipers and fan)
Thanks again.
Donnie, ya gotta get yourself a Power Probe III! It's gonna cost you at first, but you can get them for as cheap as $75 from Amazon. If you've spent a few hours already trying to figure out what's going on, it would've paid for itself already (3 hours x $25) and this will help you figure it out, very, very quickly.
For example, you could've taken the PPIII and put the probe to the outer metal ring on one of the dash light sockets, push the rocker down to apply ground (versus up to apply 12V) and the light would've lit up instantly, if there was power to the grey wire.
If not, then you'd go to the fuse box and run the probe up and down the rows of fuses (about a ten second exercise) and it would've lit up for every fuse, if there was power there and the fuse wasn't blown.
Then you'd be applying it to the light switch harness and you can power up the lights, right there, just by applying the 12v with the rocker switch or ground if need be.
I'm telling you guys, this is a 'must have' tool, if you're going to be fooling around with electrical. Or, you could use a multimeter and a test light and slowly test each and every circuit for hours.
The very short fuse in the fuse panel is the interior light fuse. IT ONLY GETS POWER when the headlight switch is pulled....so it does not matter if the ignition is on or not.
IF the headlight switch is pulled ON and you check to see if you are getting battery voltage ON THE TERMINALS...that can tell you right away if it is a bad switch....AND
KNOWING that you have a few fuses that are not getting power and or working...If you have a wiring diagram...you would see that the power when the ignition key is ON comes in from the outer leg of the fuse terminal and then gores to the inner section of the fuse panel and then goes to where it needs to go.
SO MANY TIMES....you can have 12 volts on the outer fuse terminals....and when you touch the fuse itself at the outer fuse terminal in the fuse panel;...you get a voltage drop due to corrosion on the terminals.
Wiring Question
