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AIR pump devane

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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 01:55 PM
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Default AIR pump devane

Bought a complete AIR set-up for my 68 L36 car but unfortunately the diverter valve has a bad diaphragm so Ive decided to devane the pump and plug the tube ends for the time being until funds allow for a valve rebuild.

I was hoping that someone has done this before and could help me with a question. I have the rear of the pump off and want to remove the vanes without destroying them but need to remove the rear bearing carrier. It looks like its pressed in but has what looks like holes for a spanner wrench. Has anyone else done this that can give me a bit of direction? Heres a pic if it helps.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 07:32 PM
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YES...put it back together and wait to get the funds to do it right.

I have been at this same point and have to stop here. Altering emission equipment is a NO-NO in my book...and I have to be concerned about it.

Maybe someone else will jump in and comment.

DUB
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
YES...put it back together and wait to get the funds to do it right.

I have been at this same point and have to stop here. Altering emission equipment is a NO-NO in my book...and I have to be concerned about it.

Maybe someone else will jump in and comment.

DUB
I have a 69 big block with the same problem. The diaphram in the diverter valve is shot. The default for the valve is the open or "on" position. The valve only closes at low or no throttle to prevent backfiring by introducing fresh air into the exhaust so if it doesn't backfire when letting off the gas, leave it alone until you can get the diverter valve repaired. The system will work normally but will just work all the time with a faulty valve and that valve is only there for the reason stated above. Put it back together and forget about it until you find a new valve. I've been looking for a year for one at some sort of realistic price....

Last edited by CanadaGrant; Nov 12, 2014 at 07:59 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 01:42 PM
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OK guys, figured it out, alot more simple than I expected. It is just pressed in and after a bit of heat with a butane torch and few sharp hits with my slide hammer it came right out. With the retainer out of the way the vanes were easily removed. Runs quieter/smoother now and one less failure point. Anyways, thanks for the advice and I do intend on rebuilding the diverter valve eventually which is why I wanted to de-vane the pump w/o destroying the vanes so I could reassemble it then. Heres the pics. BTW, does anyone else other than Bill Hodel rebuild diverter valves?
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 01:59 PM
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Eh, unless you have some **** looking over your shoulder, just remove veins and block the hoses....

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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 01:13 PM
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"Selloldparts" on Ebay
He will rebuild all smog and also has a lot of stock.
Does a great job.
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 06:18 PM
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Found a nice way to plug the air tubes. I was told to use roofing nails and high temp RTV but thought Id look around for something better. Found some button head allen bolts(1/4"). They finger thread into the tubes and the round head seats against the flare in the manifold nicely.
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