I bought a rebuild kit and installed all the parts. does anyone have an alignment procedure. Need to know how to adjust the rod out of the Vacuum canister and other adjustments.

 

It takes special aimers that attach to the bulb as you might recall. I would wait until you can take it to an inspection station and throw them some bucks to do it for you. I can not Redeemer the 'trick' that can allow you to basically set them up by using a wall and having the car so many feet away and set the center of the light beam as a specific height. I have not needed to do this for so long because I have the aimer's in my shop.

DUB

 

Had a Buddy that waited until it was foggy out, then drove out into the country and aimed 'em.
I prefer the aimers.

 

I guess I didn't describe what I need very well. I have the head light assemblies out of the car and installed all new parts. the rod out of the vacuum canister needs adjusted and I don't know how long to make it. i heard that the headlights need to snap open and snap closed. there is adjustment in the side bearings, the vacuum canister and the stop bolt. I need help figuring out this complicated mess.
Thanks for the help!!

 

Go to the 5.36 mark it'll tell you.

Willcox

Headlamp Housing Adjustment 68-82

 

DO not forget to do this....

ALSO....when adjusting them...make it so your headlight bezels fit in with ease and are the same. Nothing is worse than have them open and close fine...and when you go to put the bezel in...you can not do it without damaging paint.

I like to set the door so when the bezel is in...the bottom edge of the headlight bezel is slightly below the front edge of the opening of the headlight...and both sides match when the bezels are in and headlight door up.

DUB

 

The following procedure was copied from a post on the forum and is not original from me. Unfortunately, I don't know who to credit - sorry!

There has been a recent thread about whether the assembly can be reinstalled from the top or the bottom. I was able to install mine from the top, but it required the removal of the hood and EVERYTHING from the header bar forward, including the grills.


INSTALLING HEADLIGHT DOORS

Sharing the fruits of my hard labor. I've seen a number of incomplete and/or erroneous posts on this subject, so I reasoned out the process and tested it on my 76. Here are the steps in the correct order. Do this with the engine not running and no vacuum in the reservoir, or you could get pinched fingers (or worse). Remove the grill (5 screws) so you can reach the mechanism from the front as well as from underneath.

1. If a new installation, center the headlight door in the opening by adjusting the pivot points and the collars (on the hinge posts) at the upper rear corners of the assembly. Hold the door in the closed position and adjust the pivot points until the corners of the door are aligned with the corners of the opening. Don't worry about the final open/closed height at this point - just be sure the door is centered and on the same plane as the surrounding bodywork when held in the closed position. Tighten the pivot point mounting bolts and verify the alignment is still correct in the closed position.

2. Loosen the 3 bolts on the bracket in front of the vacuum actuator (NOT the ones on the vacuum actuator itself) - the ones that locate the bracket holding the linkage with the springs and the clevis (remove the clevis to get at the center bolt). To remove the clevis, first remove the 2 springs that attach to the clevis pin, then the cotter pin and the clevis pin itself. The other 2 springs can stay attached.

3. Adjust the full open height with the adjusting bolt - the one on the arm that contacts the headlight frame when full open. Out is lower, in is higher. Use a long socket extension and a universal joint to reach the adjusting bolt through the grill opening. Make the bottom of the bezel flush with the front edge of the opening.

4. Actuate the mechanism by hand so you can feel the "over center" condition when the door is fully open and the linkage fully extended forward. Move the bracket until you get a slight interference fit - the linkage gently, but firmly, "snaps" forward into the over center position when you actuate it manually. Tighten the 3 bolts loosened in step 2.

5. Adjust the clevis by turning it on its shaft until the clevis pin (the rod that goes through the clevis, and where the springs mount) is all the way to the front of the curved slot it rides in. Remove the clevis pin and turn the clevis 1 to 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise to give a slight interference fit at the end of its travel in the open position. The clevis must extend enough to push the linkage into the over center position, which is what locks the door in the open position. The interference fit ensures this locking, and prevents rattles too.

6. Last step - adjust the closed position with the small hex bolt - this is in the center of the linkage, and points down at the ground when the door is closed. The hex is small - the same size as the diameter of the bolt itself. Adjust so the front edge of the door is about 1/32" inch lower than the front edge of the opening. This will minimize wind noise and water entry.

7. Test. The door should snap into full open firmly, with a click, but not a thud. If it makes a loud thud or a bang, re-do step 4. The thud means the over center position is too tight, and this will put too much strain on the linkage, damaging it over time.

Note: It goes without saying, but just in case, you should use a good lubricant on all pivot points and moving parts in the linkage.

 

Thanks, this is why I buy from you.

 

thanks!