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I installed one ZZ4 head last week. I installed the other today. Today I read the instructions. The washers go on a certain way. The ARP lube is required between the washer and the bolt head. Can I take out the bolts in sequence one at a time to fix and reinstall them properly? If I do need to start over, do I need another head gasket? Thanks guys...
If it was me, I would take one out at a time starting with number one, do what you have to do to fix them, then put them back in again and re torque to specs. To reiterate, only take one out at a time, then reinstall, do not take them all out at once. But then again I have been known to do things in unusual ways.... Also I am not a ASE cert mechanic.....
As long as those washers were not deformed (or meant to deform when torqued) and you did not exceed a proper torque value applied to the bolts (and engine threads), I would do exactly as stated above....remove one at a time and reinstall as instructions call out.
As long as those washers were not deformed (or meant to deform when torqued) and you did not exceed a proper torque value applied to the bolts (and engine threads), I would do exactly as stated above....remove one at a time and reinstall as instructions call out.
I'm a home mecanic as well. That sounds totaly logical to me. The motor has not been started so there is no heat cycle. I'll wait for one more agree before I do just that. Thanks...
Aircraft Mechanic agrees. shouldn't warp or deform. The reason they put lube between washer and fastener is to give a wet torque. It gives less friction thus giving more tension on the fastener. Its surprisingly different than a dry torque.
lubricated fasteners allow torque to the actual "spring load" of the fastener. Threaded fasteners are actually an inclined plane rolled into a spring. The spring tension of the inclined plane provides adhesion of mated surfaces. Torque limits are determined by measuring stresses of the load compared to detrimental effects of excessive load or excessive tension.
All very interesting and the procedure I followed this past spring with my AFR heads BUT I suspect that there are MANY heads both aluminum and cast iron with bolts not properly lubed with washers and without washers that are torqued to spec and are just fine for street engines.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by jb78L-82
All very interesting and the procedure I followed this past spring with my AFR heads BUT I suspect that there are MANY heads both aluminum and cast iron with bolts not properly lubed with washers and without washers that are torqued to spec and are just fine for street engines.
I would have to agree but ARP is going by the book as they provide fasteners for OEM engines up to Top Fuel. The latter has to be dead nuts on while you go down the chain it becomes less important.
At your level you would probably be fine but I have gone through the procedure of replacing one bolt at a time on my heads once and no ill effects.
you will have no issue doing it that way as the gasket won't lose its crush. did you use the proper lube on the threads the first time? if not it may cinch it down more, so in effect you would have just torqued it in 4 steps rather than 3.
Since we're talking about head bolts, if some of the head bolts go into water jackets and need sealant, should we put sealant on the threads of all the bolts so they get the same torque?