I was afraid this might be the answer Jim so I did not want to broach my question that might be leading. Yet I am not surprised for some reason. The amount of work I have done on this car is almost a full restoration. There is almost nothing I have not done to it. I will look through the files thank you. I am sure this is going to be a long haul effort in conjunction with my engine work I am doing at the same time. I think I need to quit my full time job and just work on the car.....

 

Are you SURE that the shifter/column inner lock cable that rotates a part in the column that allows your lock cylinder to go back all the way is working. BECAUSE it seems like the lever out in the engine compartment at the base of the steering column by the firewall is NOT up all the way and thus...the lock cylinder will NOT go back all the way to get he key out because the column 'thinks' that you are still in GEAR and not PARK ( automatic cars or REVERSE manual cars)

I have encountered some steering columns where this rotating part is really hard to turn manually ...and causes the cable to kink. When that happens...it is all over and it will not work unless you get a new cable and install it or remove the cable from the lever and wire the lever so it will not fall down. BUT...if you do that...you will be able to turn the car off in any gear...and a safety issue...which was removed later on in the C3 era. I have had to get way into the column and get the old hard grease out and lube it back up again so the lever out in the engine compartment rotates freely.

CHECK this before you take your column out...UNLESS this has been a problem even with the old lock cylinder. I would still check it first myself.

YES....Having the column out the car and on a jig is much easier....but I have also got the plastic gear in sync when the column is in the car. Mainly because some of the steering couplings ( rag joints) can fall apart when you try to get them off the flange at the bottom of the steering column shaft.

DUB

 

Hey DUB would love to not have to take the column out as I am overwhelmed with all the other work I am doing.

I am not at all sure what you are referring to. I have the factory AIM, the GM Chassis Service manual and the GM service overhaul manual and the Haynes for reference.

Can you point me to an exploded view of the parts you are referring to? I am visually better than explanations. I cant picture or find this cable and I bet you are right on here.....

- Shifter Column Interlock cable and how its attached to the cylinder lock assembly is what I can not seem to locate.

 

Go out under the hood. Under the brake master cylinder you will find the end of the steering column sticking through the dash panel. On the engine side of the steering column jacket you will find a lever. This is a common part on all 1969 through 1976 Vettes. That lever is connected to a cable that is attached to your transmission. The cable pushes the lever UP (if you could see it from the driver seat, it would be roughly at the 1 o'clock position when the manual transmission is in REVERSE or the automatic transmission is in PARK.

You should be able to disconnect the cable from the steering column lever by removing a cotter pin and washer. Now determine if the lever can be easily rotated through its full travel (roughly from 4 o'clock to that 1 o'clock position mentioned earlier.) The lever must in the 1 o'clock position in order to rotate your ignition key (and the lock cylinder) to the OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY positions.


You can see the lever but the cable is not shown. The cable sheath should be attached to Bracket #5 and the cable itself should be attached to the pin on the steering column lever with the washer and cotter pin.

Jim

 

Jim and DUB, I wish I could take you guys out for a beer! That last check did the trick! I dont have that cable any longer (never did since I had the car) hence I was not able to locate it. BUT I did rotate the lever up and VIOLA the lock was able to properly engage and work in all correct positions ACC of lock and start....!!!

THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH!!!! Now I can get back and focuss on all the other work I have been working on.


Really you guys have no idea the help you just gave and how much I appreciate it. If you guys ever make it to the Phoenix area let me know so I can buy you that beer!

 

Thanks...and I am glad that this helped you out. And I might have to take you up on your offer if I am out here ...especially if it is during the summer months.

DUB

 

71LS5...I'm so glad you got to the bottom of this, I've been watching this thread and had all the confidence that your answer would be found, one way or the other

You just can't replace knowledge and experience, hats off to Jim and DUB

 

71LS5, one more tip. If you go back to the picture that you posted on 12-31-2014, 01:39 AM. At roughly the 1 o'clock position you can see the very tip of the hazard warning lever. It is a stamping and you can see the end of it sticking up at you from inside the turn signal switch housing. That end needs to press into a mating cavity on the underside of your turn signal switch.

The lever has a tapped hole that aligns with the hazard button hole in the side of the turn signal housing. A lot of people forget to attach the lever to the switch and then cannot figure out why their hazard button doesn't work.

Glad that I could be of help.

Jim

 

Jim,

Glad you commented on that lever plate for the hazard lights....I have bit by that before. I saw it but forgot to comment....because it can come out and fall down in the column and if you do not know what you are looking for...it can blend in and WHAM....next thing you know a person is going back in and fishing it out.

DUB

 

I knew I would find help here. I just got home with my new purchase of a '74 vert with 4sp. I have been wondering and trying to get the key out of the ignition switch for an hour. I did not know about the part where you put the shifter into reverse to get the key out. The car came home on a flat bed tonight.

 

Update:

Done! New lock in place BUT my turn signals don't do anything. When I press the brake both turn signals go on at the dash. I verified the fuse is good and the flasher/relay works on the bench.

I am afraid that I may have done something to the turn signal switch contacts. I am not very familiar with that part but during the install I did make sure it clicked into place on both sides.

One other note is that the hazards was not connected that I could see. The column was opened previously and I am not sure what was done.

Any guidance on this would be very appreciated...not real happy but it looks like I may have to go in again and that press fit is a PITA!

 

this time with a pic I hope. This was during dis-assembly.

 

KNOWING that the wires that go to your TURN SIGNAL indicators in your speedo/tach are the FRONT wiring for the turn signals...because they are dark blue and light blue. SO...if when you press down on the break pedal....either you have a botched up turn signal switch...or the wiring in the connectors are not CORRECT....IF you un-pinned them from the connector.

The yellow and dark green wires are for your REAR TURN SIGNALS...which are the SAME for the BRAKE LIGHTS.

Are you sure the hazard portion of the turn signal switch has not been pushed in???? It looks correct form your photo....but make sure it has not been pushed in.

DUB

 

I actually did not have to disconnect the harmonic connector or any other wires for that matter. So I don't think its that. The only anomalies during the job was I lost the spring to the pin contact (see pictured surrounded by the yellow insulated plastic). It popped out when I was removing the press fit collar. So I just cut to fit a spring from a pen that gave me similar tension.

BTW any idea what that contact is for?

Ron

 

Now that I look at it again it must only be for the horn (which now works).

 

Is the hazard "on" position "in" or "out"? Mine never worked.

 

If your hazzards are on but not working it will cause the symptoms you are having.

 

Hey '75 small world used to live in Grayslake not to long ago practically neighbors! That does not make sense that the hazard would cause this problem functionally but since I did not see what/how the hazard needed to be connected to its rather vague to me on how these two affect each other from a circuit perspective.


I could not see how the hazards are/were set up in the column. Is there something that connects to the hazard rod show below (yellow arrow from the bottom)?

What are the two copper contacts for (top yellow arrow)?

 

The copper contacts are for the key buzzer. The lower arrow is for the hazzard mechanism, it attaches to the turn signal switch.

 

POSTS #28 and #28 discussed the issue with the part in your photo that is the lower arrow.

Upper arrow is the key warning buzzer as mentioned by '75.

DUB