Keep in mind that you will have to relocate the wheel for the parking brake cable. The cable will hit the yoke if you do not move it. Since your cross member bolts in, making the move will be easier. Just don't go too far.
My car was a 4 speed and had the welded in cross member, so cutting it out and rewelding the bracket was going to be a b***h. I relocated the wheel to the outside of the bracket, using a 2 1/2" long X 1/2" bolt for the axle, trimmed the flange on the bottom of the bracket and put a spacer inside the bracket so it would not crush when the bolt was tightened.

 

This is going to my wireless printer......then to mySpecial Modification Section in my project binder!

 

bit of progress this week whilst waiting for the shaft to be cut n shut

x-member slotted bout 5/8" towards the rear, you can see an imprint from the old washer position,
i also slotted the rubber mount 1/4" to gain a extra little as well, but probably not needed as there was plenty of room.


bolted in waiting on the driveshaft to come back to see how much to move the park bracket


brake switch with cruise function installed. also have a vacuum switch to go inline when/if needed to dis-connect the lockup.


how i rewired my lockup solenoid to use the 4th gear switch and bypassed the temperature switch, just swapped the connectors around


put a couple of jumper pins in the back of the plug, 12v in on dark brown wire, jumped black to light brown wire, then to the pressure switch to earth.


BTO TV cable installed and correct(?) travel setup, rest unknown till test when shaft back.
found out i wasn't getting full pedal travel, was hitting carpet/floor before full opening, so just did a bit of freelance bending to restore 42yrs of use....


steering lockout cable bracket, made a template, machined a block of steel to fit.


welded in position and drilled a new hole to suit the pan.


B&M speed sensor placed in the middle of the 2 piece speedo cable, and tucked behind the splash/heat shield on footwell floor.


where i temporally mounted, with supplied sticky velcro, the B&M lockup controller.
have spun the cable up with cordless drill to check function, turned the dial and green light comes on.
will mount elsewhere out of the way once it's all trialed.


have to cut n shut my exhaust pipes to clear the rear of the pan, so bought some offcuts with a bend in them, will do a bit of fabrication during the week.

driveshaft is off getting bout 2" out of it, won't be back till next fri. so hopefully will be test driving next weekend.

 

It's looking goooood!

Be sure to connect the vacuum switch inline so the converter will automatically unlock under moderate acceleration...it will help the transmission last a lot longer.....

without the vacuum switch installed, the engine will bog when accelerating moderately to hard-----possibly damaging the internal parts.

 

Am I looking for high or a low vacuum signal?
Is it connected with the NO (vac sig to close) or the NC (vac sig to open)?
I guess I just "t" into the dissy vac line.

 

looking for low vac. signal. connect wiring to NO contacts inline with output signal from bm controller. Engine running (hi vac) contacts will close with vac. signal and allow lockup. Upon hard acceleration the vacuum signal will drop, contacts of switch will open and disengage lockup control. the vac. switch should be adjustable with a small allen wrench. i have my bm controller in the same place.

 

I didn't have a controller so I used manifold vacuum to operate my vacuum switch......the switch is Normally Closed causing the torque converter to lock-up with a strong vacuum when cruising at a steady speed......if I accelerate heavily or drive up a steep hill the manifold vacuum drops allowing the vacuum switch to Open which causes the torque converter to un-lock allowing the transmission to go to lower gears or go into passing gear.

The vacuum switch is bolted under the dash out of sight where I can easily adjust it with the set screw located in the vacuum port of the switch. I adjust the vacuum switch with a small Allen wrench to suit my driving style.

When I reach cruising speed again the vacuum switch receives strong manifold vacuum causing the torque converter to lock-up again.

Either method/controller or no-controller works well.

 

how do you like the controller, does it perform as expected?
what does the push button do? as there is already a slide switch for on/off.
i spun my cable up with a cordless drill, turned **** until green light came on,
but it was only giving about 8volts output on the multimeter, will that be enough to trip the solenoid?
or is something wrong?

still bit confused about the vacuum side of things?
which is better, off the carby (which port?) or the manifold (where the t400 modulator was)?
has anyone put a mityvac with gauge on their vac switch and gotten an idea of how much vac it's set at?

1972 qudrajet, dissy is connected to fitting #3. (old photo)

 

my controller works great. i have it set at 55mph. (88kph) you can see i have a black mark where its set. **** turns really easy. the on/off push button just turns unit on or off. mine stays on all the time. i had my vac. switch connected to connection where my trans. was connected, manifold vac.. i used a mityvac and set the switch at about 8 inhg vacuum. thats just what worked best for me. my engine has about 14inhg vac. at idle. controller should have 12volts output. may need to check where you are getting supply from.

 

it's connected to the "ign" terminal at the fuse panel
will check voltage at panel in the morning

 

My '68 fuse block had corroded terminals INSIDE the two mating halves of the fuse block causing low voltage to a couple components. You definitely need to check how much voltage is coming from the battery to the fuse block....somewhere there is a internally corroded wire or terminal blocking the correct voltage.

I connected a small vacuum gauge $20 inline under the dash where I could glance at it to see the vacuum reading when the system was turning ON/OFF so I could adjust my vacuum switch (no controller). Our Escalade cycles ON/OFF twice as much as my n'34 SBC 700R4 street truck---so I probably have the vacuum switch set slightly low, but I only want the trans to unlock with heavy acceleration.
The gauge really helps in setting the ON/OFF to your preferences.

 

Definatly 12v at the fuse and at the red wire into the controller.
Disconnected the output wire and connected the multimeter.
Spun up with drill again, green light on, only 8.2v out on yellow wire that goes to the solenoid.

 

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.......it has it's own generator....it's probably set to operate the system on 8 volts.

 

I'll email B&M and ask if that's a normal output from their controller.

Might have to set it up to trip a relay to supply full voltage to solenoid.

Good thing I've got no hair left.... arggggg

 

The "generator" goes in the speedo cable to send the speed signal to the controller, but does not generate the voltage sent to the lock up solenoid, that should be battery voltage.

 

unfortunatly B&M require you to register before you can get tech support.
i have tried, with 2 different emails, still no reply from them regarding registration aplication,

even tho it was brand new from BTO, i think that the output should be correct at 12v.
that would mean sending it back to the US, then waiting for a replacement..
so at this stage i'm just going to get a 3-32v solid state relay to trip and supply 12v out to the soleniod.

i'm running out of time to get this all finished, as i have a 8 day trip over easter, Adelaide to Canberra for the vette nationals.
1/3 of the way across the country n back, about 2400Km's (1500Miles), plus coulpe hundred driving around at the nationals.
hence my reason to put a OD box in.... i do a lot of long runs

 

i would try another 12v source just to make sure its not the fuse box IGN. connection. maybe connect a wire directly off the battery just to test it.... i honestly cant say what voltage was on my output because i never measured it. but it works....

 

The solid state relay sounds like a good idea to be able to drive the car until you verify the voltage out of the controller.

 

ran a power lead direct from the battery, spun up again, 8.3v out on yellow wire.

i bought the shiftworks "shifter kit" which includes a cable bracket, decal, and a new detent plate, but i haven't installed it yet.
i have hooked my cable up with SW bracket that mounts onto the pan and i can select ALL gears, even 1st.
have the pan off, and looked as the lever was shifted, the spring plate drops into the rooster comb positively.
will eventually change the detent plate when i next have to delve into the console.
one less thing to worry about at the moment..

 

(I had to dremel an extra notch in my Hurst shifter/now it drops into first.)