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No brakes again?

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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 10:25 AM
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Default No brakes again?

Let car sit for approximately 2 months. Then today, I want to take it for a spin, and find no brakes (pedal to the floor0. About a year ago, I replaced all brakes with 4 new calipers, new pads, new ss lines, and new master cylinder. (was tired of one original caliper failing at a time.)

Found front reservoir low, filled reservoir, pumped brakes and pedal is back. Have also jacked up car and can find no leaks.

Where the fluid go? Can it evaporate?
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 78whtshark
Let car sit for approximately 2 months. Then today, I want to take it for a spin, and find no brakes (pedal to the floor0. About a year ago, I replaced all brakes with 4 new calipers, new pads, new ss lines, and new master cylinder. (was tired of one original caliper failing at a time.)

Found front reservoir low, filled reservoir, pumped brakes and pedal is back. Have also jacked up car and can find no leaks.

Where the fluid go? Can it evaporate?
No, it can't evaporate. And assuming m/c was full, you have a leak. You can't let these cars sit as it's tough on the caliper piston seals. They supposedly stick to the caliper cylinder walls when sitting and then tear when the brakes are applied. I've heard that just applying the brake pedal weekly or so to these cars when sitting goes a long way to help prevent this.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 06:26 AM
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Thanks.

Found no leaks yet. In process of bleeding brakes again. But Master Cylinder cover seem a little loose, not fitting snug? May replace cover. Then drive more often, even if just around block.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 07:04 AM
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If the fluid is low in the MC you have a leak somewhere….

I have said this more than a few times, if your C3 brake system is in good order, the brakes do not require any special attention if the car sits over the winter…I changed my 4 calipers in 1985 (that is not a typo) to VBP SS sleeved calipers with regular GM Lip seals (no O ring seals back then), the car sits 99.9% of the time even in the driving season and sits from December to April every winter. I do not do anything to it over the winter-no starting, pressing on the brake pedal once a week/month etc-zero. Brakes work perfect every year. CHANGE the brake fluid every 3-4 years and all is good. I know other C3 owners who do the same and have zero issues. If you need to use special procedures to keep your brakes functioning correctly, something is not right….

Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 20, 2015 at 07:28 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 11:56 AM
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I had the same problem years ago....kept losing fluid but could not see a leak anywhere.

I finally discovered that the master cylinder was leaking past the pistons..............into the power brake booster

I put new seals in the master cylinder/refilled----bled/brakes worked great.....then P/B booster gradually failed from the brake fluid ruining the internal seals.

I replaced the booster and the brakes were great.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
If the fluid is low in the MC you have a leak somewhere….

I have said this more than a few times, if your C3 brake system is in good order, the brakes do not require any special attention if the car sits over the winter…I changed my 4 calipers in 1985 (that is not a typo) to VBP SS sleeved calipers with regular GM seals (no Lip seals back then), the car sits 99.9% of the time even in the driving season and sits from December to April every winter. I do not do anything to it over the winter-no starting, pressing on the brake pedal once a week/month etc-zero. Brakes work perfect every year. CHANGE the brake fluid every 3-4 years and all is good. I know other C3 owners who do the same and have zero issues. If you need to use special procedures to keep your brakes functioning correctly, something is not right….
What kind of seals do you consider regular GM seals?
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by thegazman
What kind of seals do you consider regular GM seals?
The OEM GM designed Lip seals-no O ring seals I meant back then….

Last edited by jb78L-82; Jan 20, 2015 at 07:27 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 11:48 AM
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Thanks for the input....I'm keeping an eye on my master cyc. Have brakes again after bleeding.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 78whtshark
Then drive more often, even if just around block.
Glad that you have brakes again. BUT from what you wrote above...do not get in the habit of 'just driving it around the block'....because even though that is good for your brake system and other parts that need to be used ....make sure that you drive it for some time so you get the engine HOT enough...thus the engine oil is getting hot.

I am glad that 'jb78L-82' has found that his brake system does not have any problems with the method he employs. Truly I am glad...but...I much rather prefer that my customers get in and drive the car at least ONCE a month if at all possible....and make sure that they get it hot when they do so. It is not so much for the brake system as to make sure that the engine does not have 'dry-start-ups' due to the oil has sat for so long and the oil has sheeted off all moving internal engine and other component parts. And the oil pump getting oil to these parts in the engine and other parts (manual transmission/differential) may require a few rotations to finally get the oil that they need. To me it only makes sense.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Jan 24, 2015 at 06:41 PM.
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