Another rag joint question - Jim Shea?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 484
Likes: 10
From: Newcastle NSW
Another rag joint question - Jim Shea?
Hi all,
Does anyone know what type of nuts (as pictured here - the ones that attach to the shouldered bolts) these are supposed to be? Nyloc? Standard?
Cheers!
-Matt
Does anyone know what type of nuts (as pictured here - the ones that attach to the shouldered bolts) these are supposed to be? Nyloc? Standard?
Cheers!
-Matt
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
There is a standard split lock washer between the nut and the steering column flange. The 5/16 nut (the one on the copper plated bolt) has a special size hex (the same as the 3/8 nut.) That allowed the car assembly plant to use the same tool to tighten both nuts.
FYI, the copper plating on the 5/16 threaded shoulder bolt results in the correct torque-tension relationship when torquing both nuts to 20 ft-lbs.
Jim
FYI, the copper plating on the 5/16 threaded shoulder bolt results in the correct torque-tension relationship when torquing both nuts to 20 ft-lbs.
Jim
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
There is a standard split lock washer between the nut and the steering column flange. The 5/16 nut (the one on the copper plated bolt) has a special size hex (the same as the 3/8 nut.) That allowed the car assembly plant to use the same tool to tighten both nuts.
FYI, the copper plating on the 5/16 threaded shoulder bolt results in the correct torque-tension relationship when torquing both nuts to 20 ft-lbs.
Jim
FYI, the copper plating on the 5/16 threaded shoulder bolt results in the correct torque-tension relationship when torquing both nuts to 20 ft-lbs.
Jim
Dang Jim is there anything you don't know about these steering systems?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
39 years working in the steering system area provided me with lots of background. It didn't hurt to own three C3s during that time.
jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,453
Likes: 67
From: Midland Ontario
NCM Sinkhole Donor
What is your personal preference for replacing or rebuilding these joints Jim? Are there specific materials being used by certain manufacturers that are better? These joints seem to be a real hit and miss part with the aftermarket. Thanks in advance for any insight you could offer.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
Sorry, I just don't have specific information on hand rebuilding flexible coupling assemblies. They are difficult to rebuild because the OEM manufacturing process involved special induction heating fixtures that heated and hot upset the ends of the stop pins into the bow tieflange. So servicing and replacing the rubber coupling disc requires you to grind off the upset stop pin head and then driving the pin from the bowtie ear.
If you are trying to try and duplicate the looks of the OEM assembly the following is an article from the NCRS website on hot upsetting the stop pins to the bowtie flange.
http://www.ncrs.org/forums/showthrea...ighlight=joint
This article involves an earlier flexible coupling but has a lot of the same pins, rubber coupling disc, and flange. The above NCRS fellows may be of a lot more help than I would be.
BTW, Corvette flexible coupling discs were always a lamination of seven layers of cotton cloth and neoprene rubber.
Jim
If you are trying to try and duplicate the looks of the OEM assembly the following is an article from the NCRS website on hot upsetting the stop pins to the bowtie flange.
http://www.ncrs.org/forums/showthrea...ighlight=joint
This article involves an earlier flexible coupling but has a lot of the same pins, rubber coupling disc, and flange. The above NCRS fellows may be of a lot more help than I would be.
BTW, Corvette flexible coupling discs were always a lamination of seven layers of cotton cloth and neoprene rubber.
Jim
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Rag joint removal
Sorry, I just don't have specific information on hand rebuilding flexible coupling assemblies. They are difficult to rebuild because the OEM manufacturing process involved special induction heating fixtures that heated and hot upset the ends of the stop pins into the bow tieflange. So servicing and replacing the rubber coupling disc requires you to grind off the upset stop pin head and then driving the pin from the bowtie ear.
If you are trying to try and duplicate the looks of the OEM assembly the following is an article from the NCRS website on hot upsetting the stop pins to the bowtie flange.
[url]http://www.ncrs.org/forums/showthread.php?109020-questions-on-riveting-a-telescopic-rag-joint&highlight=joint[/
This article involves an earlier flexible coupling but has a lot of the same pins, rubber coupling disc, and flange. The above NCRS fellows may be of a lot more help than I would be.
BTW, Corvette flexible coupling discs were always a lamination of seven layers of cotton cloth and neoprene rubber.
Jim
If you are trying to try and duplicate the looks of the OEM assembly the following is an article from the NCRS website on hot upsetting the stop pins to the bowtie flange.
[url]http://www.ncrs.org/forums/showthread.php?109020-questions-on-riveting-a-telescopic-rag-joint&highlight=joint[/
This article involves an earlier flexible coupling but has a lot of the same pins, rubber coupling disc, and flange. The above NCRS fellows may be of a lot more help than I would be.
BTW, Corvette flexible coupling discs were always a lamination of seven layers of cotton cloth and neoprene rubber.
Jim
Thanks Byocum
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 484
Likes: 10
From: Newcastle NSW
Hi Jim,
Thank you very much for your response to my question! I have managed to find an excellent condition NOS GM rag joint as well as the correct shouldered bolts. The only thing I'm missing is the nuts and your question fixes that for me.
Cheers,
Matt
Thank you very much for your response to my question! I have managed to find an excellent condition NOS GM rag joint as well as the correct shouldered bolts. The only thing I'm missing is the nuts and your question fixes that for me.
Cheers,
Matt