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are left & right trailing arms the same?

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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 09:04 AM
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Default are left & right trailing arms the same?

Comparing the left & right bare trailing arms side by side they look to be identical except for the 4 welded on brackets (park brake cable, brake line mount & skid). If so, has anybody ever made a left out of a right?

Last edited by 68notray; Jan 19, 2015 at 08:15 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 11:21 AM
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I never really paid attention to that, but it would definately get some people outof a bind if they had a spare arm and the arms were identical/boss fits were centered vertically in the arms......only the brackets and spring-bolt-holes would have to be modified.
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 12:41 PM
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Well, I bought an arm from a fellow board member, who is awesome btw. But my stupidity I bought the wrong side. I already need to transplant my park brake tab from my damaged original arm. Then I noticed it looks to be the same identical arm except for the 4 brackets. So why not switch all 4 and fix the problem?

Last edited by 68notray; Jan 19, 2015 at 08:16 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 68notray
So why not switch all 3 and fix the problem?
I would not waste my time....I would get the correct arm. Maybe a DIY'er could or would...but I could not because I have to charge for my time...and this is pointless for me to do. Much like me rebuilding calipers...I have the tools to do them...but when I figure in my time...it does not make sense to charge my customers MORE money than if I buy one already built.

And you more than likely would also have to deal with the staked retainer for the rubber cushion for the rear leaf spring.

DUB
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 08:13 PM
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All done - took me about 20 min to make the sex change. Cut all 4 brackets off & welded back on, in opposite config. Park brake tab w/ the nylon "u" needs to be reverse twist so I grabbed it off my damaged arm. So, it can be done & quite easily. I am doing a total rebush repaint anyway so a new front bushing was already in order plus one of the tabs was mangled and needed swapping out as well. I am a hardcore diy guy and consider my time to be free so I like these sort of challenges.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 68notray
All done - took me about 20 min to make the sex change. Cut all 4 brackets off & welded back on, in opposite config. Park brake tab w/ the nylon "u" needs to be reverse twist so I grabbed it off my damaged arm. So, it can be done & quite easily. I am doing a total rebush repaint anyway so a new front bushing was already in order plus one of the tabs was mangled and needed swapping out as well. I am a hardcore diy guy and consider my time to be free so I like these sort of challenges.
Good job!

I would ask for a pic....but I could just hold a mirror next to one of the arms....LOL!
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 68notray
All done - took me about 20 min to make the sex change. Cut all 4 brackets off & welded back on, in opposite config. Park brake tab w/ the nylon "u" needs to be reverse twist so I grabbed it off my damaged arm. So, it can be done & quite easily. I am doing a total rebush repaint anyway so a new front bushing was already in order plus one of the tabs was mangled and needed swapping out as well. I am a hardcore diy guy and consider my time to be free so I like these sort of challenges.
That 20 minutes is less time than it would take to go to the parts store and pick one up if you are lucky enough to find one in stock locally. I guess it would be worth it.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 68notray
All done - took me about 20 min to make the sex change. Cut all 4 brackets off & welded back on, in opposite config. Park brake tab w/ the nylon "u" needs to be reverse twist so I grabbed it off my damaged arm. So, it can be done & quite easily. I am doing a total rebush repaint anyway so a new front bushing was already in order plus one of the tabs was mangled and needed swapping out as well. I am a hardcore diy guy and consider my time to be free so I like these sort of challenges.
NOT DOUBTING YOU....BUT....I would LOVE to know what tools you used to remove these four brackets and allow you to get them welded back on all in 20 minutes.

I have a plasma cutter, cutting torch. Porta-band saw, Saws-all and cut-off wheels....and I have removed the park brake cable brake with my Porta-band saw in a snap....but the upper plate and cutting the park brake 'U' clip off an old and and getting it ground down and ready for welding would take some time. I have removed and replaced the bracket for the brake hole mount point with a cut-off wheel and that takes a minute or two.

You must have BEEN IN THE ZONE to get it done that quick. Cut off parts, remove and clean up, measure and clamp an hold in place and weld....YOU were IN THE ZONE.

Well...I am glad that I have so many old trailing arms so IF I need to do that...I can try to match your time and make it worth while. DOUBTFUL that I could...but it would be fun trying to get close.

DUB
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 08:10 PM
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Cut off wheel & torch. You're right about the smaller tabs - they were pretty much a snap. GM got some penetration on the upper plate, so I had to get ugly with that one!

DUB - curious about your screen name - is that a Johnboy & Billy reference?
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 68notray
Cut off wheel & torch. You're right about the smaller tabs - they were pretty much a snap. GM got some penetration on the upper plate, so I had to get ugly with that one!

DUB - curious about your screen name - is that a Johnboy & Billy reference?
NO....I have been called DUB.... WAY BEFORE Johnboy and Billy have been on the air.

DUB
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 06:54 PM
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No one actually answered the op's question they just scolded him for wanting to think outside the box and try to make something work out...

One mans struggle to take it easy...
I have always been into my hobbies for fun, not just vettes, antique arcade stuff, RC, other vehicles but never considered the labor of love I put into my hobbies something to charge myself for,

Some people like to tackle things just because, perhaps they triumph perhaps not but the trip getting to the end is the fun part,

Man DG....you are all over the place wasting time on your build...how wouldnt thunk it....
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 07:20 PM
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Forgive my ignorance on this but what about the spring mount hole and sway bar mount? I'd like to see a picture of this completed.
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 07:38 PM
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No sway bar so there's no holes. Spring bushing hole is identical. A new cup comes with the bolt/washers/nut/cushion kit I ordered from Willcox, so just ground off the crimped lip & installed new cup in opposite hole. Even if it were a sway bar arm all you'd do is a quick plug weld to fill the holes and drill 2 on the other side.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by The13Bats
No one actually answered the op's question
There is only one arm. 63-82. It's only the brackets that determine left or right, disc or drum brakes.
Mike
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
There is only one arm. 63-82. It's only the brackets that determine left or right, disc or drum brakes.
Mike
I hate to rain on someones parade but what about the
Trailing arm bumper pad thats welded to the top of the arm.
And are you certain that left and right are the same angle with respect to the front bushing?
For the cost of the proper one , I wouldn't bother.
These are a critical part of the alinement and half shaft alinement.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 12:11 AM
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Considering the fact that I built the assembly jigs using the original 1963 GM blueprints for a Texas company that is reproducing the arms, I'm pretty sure I know what I'm talking about.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 08:38 AM
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My apologies to tracdog.
that being said, what about the the TR bumper pad thats welded to the top of the arm.if you take the left arm and turn it upside down the pad is on the bottom, do you grind it off as well and move to the now top of the TR.
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To are left & right trailing arms the same?

Old Jan 26, 2015 | 08:46 AM
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After posting the original question, I took a host of critical measurements and confirmed the basic shell is identical for both sides. Only the welded on tab locations are different, and all of the tabs are identical as well, except for the smallest cable guide and it is just a reverse twist. The tabs are just welded on in opposite locations. In fact, if anyone else wants to do the swap - none of the welded on tab locations are super critical. They have nothing to do with alignment. Accurate to .25" is close enough.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 11:23 AM
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One thing that has always made me wonder, since the drum brake ta is the same as all the rest, and uses three less brackets, why does it cost more?
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
One thing that has always made me wonder, since the drum brake ta is the same as all the rest, and uses three less brackets, why does it cost more?
It takes extra effort to hold yourself back from welding on all those extra brackets... it's just too damn tempting.
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