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Does anyone have an alarm wiring schematic for a 1975? My alarm system was disconnected on the front fender and glassed over, but I thought I might try putting it back together while I have everything apart. I found the connection for the switch as well as the wires for the key-lock, but not sure about the rest of the system. I found a schematic for 69-70 thanks to Wilcox, but not sure about 75.
Thanks Beterbuilt, but I think the 75 is different. The car wiring diagram shows a switch(same switch as headlight open switch) next to the key switch in the side fender. I know that Wilcox has a flow type schematic for 69-70, but did not know if anyone had one for 75.
LRB,
Obviously you can do to your car as you wish. But I can tell you that this alarm system is a JOKE and all it does is make noise and can drain your battery due to not having a 'shut-down' period built in it. A very primitive design compared to the later systems.
The later design is better where it has a starter disable or enable relay in it ( can't remember which one)...and it will stop blowing the horn after e few minutes and still keep the car in 'lock down' unless it is disarmed correctly.
LRB,
Obviously you can do to your car as you wish. But I can tell you that this alarm system is a JOKE and all it does is make noise and can drain your battery due to not having a 'shut-down' period built in it. A very primitive design compared to the later systems.
The later design is better where it has a starter disable or enable relay in it ( can't remember which one)...and it will stop blowing the horn after e few minutes and still keep the car in 'lock down' unless it is disarmed correctly.
DUB
DUB,
I think you are right. I just need to let the dead alarm stay dead. It's just hard for me not to fix something that is broken. I will focus my time on getting the key buzzer and the horn to work.
I've know the horn is bad so hopefully that will fix that. I have tested all the other circuits and everything else see ok in the horn system.
DUB,
I think you are right. I just need to let the dead alarm stay dead. It's just hard for me not to fix something that is broken. I will focus my time on getting the key buzzer and the horn to work.
I've know the horn is bad so hopefully that will fix that. I have tested all the other circuits and everything else see ok in the horn system.
Not sure why key buzzer not working.
Thanks for the advice.
I did not mean to make you NOT want to fix it...I just wanted to let you know that it is such an old system...it really does not do much at all other than make noise....compared to today's systems.
I did not mean to make you NOT want to fix it...I just wanted to let you know that it is such an old system...it really does not do much at all other than make noise....compared to today's systems.
DUB
Annoyance alarm is what I've always called it. A horrible design that always failed when you least expected it. Even more so on the newer 77-82 cars.
Well the diagram is something we've needed for a while so it's on the site now for future reference.
I am sorry, I meant item #1 switch, which is the same as the headlight not up switch.
Thanks.
The switch you are referring to is a switch that GM installed....so if someone wanted to take 'dent puller'...and rip out your key switch in your fender....and IF the alarm was set....the plunger in the switch #1 would trigger the alarm because it is a tamper switch.
There is a fiberglass bracket that is bonded to your fender that you can see in the illustration you posted.....and the switch #1 is positioned so the plunger is PUSHED IN so it is not setting off your alarm when you set it.
The switch you are referring to is a switch that GM installed....so if someone wanted to take 'dent puller'...and rip out your key switch in your fender....and IF the alarm was set....the plunger in the switch #1 would trigger the alarm because it is a tamper switch.
There is a fiberglass bracket that is bonded to your fender that you can see in the illustration you posted.....and the switch #1 is positioned so the plunger is PUSHED IN so it is not setting off your alarm when you set it.
DUB
Yep that is it.
I just want to see where it ties into the schematic that Wilcox was nice enough to provide. I have all the wiring intact, so now I just want to see how it all works together and I did not see that on their diagram.
Good question.. I'll have to revise the schematic I left it out but I can't do it tonight.
The tamper switch had a black and white wire going to it. The black went to ground the white tied into the white wire for the door jamb switch. I'll see if I can update this tomorrow. In the mean time, we should both remove/edit our post removing the schematic, it'll keep someone else from being confused by a wrong diagram.
Willcox.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jan 25, 2015 at 06:13 PM.
Good question.. I'll have to revise the schematic I left it out but I can't do it tonight.
The tamper switch had a black and white wire going to it. The black went to ground the white tied into the white wire for the door jamb switch. I'll see if I can update this tomorrow. In the mean time, we should both remove/edit our post removing the schematic, it'll keep someone else from being confused by a wrong diagram.
Hey LRB, where did you find a key switch? I've been looking for one.
Originally Posted by LRB
Have not found one yet, wanted to get the wiring diagram first.
According to, Ecklers, Willcox and Paragon, the key switch has been discontinued. I've only found one on the popular auction site and they want $150 for it right now. PM me if you want the link. The tamper switch though is easy, as it's the same switch used to light up your "headlamps" warning light. About $25 from the various vendors.
It's nice to have a wiring diagram just for this. I was able to trace the whole thing on the diagrams I have but this is better without the clutter of everything else. Thanks Ernie.