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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 10:46 AM
  #21  
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I thought that 68 was the last year for the short water pump, and 69 they switched to the long one. So wouldn't 69-74 have the long water pump?
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 77vet
I thought that 68 was the last year for the short water pump, and 69 they switched to the long one. So wouldn't 69-74 have the long water pump?
My '69 has a short pump.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
I thought that you needed a short water pump
Good call, I think you're right. I think the long water pump crank pulley hits the crossmember. I was under the impression that the water pumps weren't interchangeable, but I really didnt think about it. It came with a LWP and I just ran with it. Better to find out know that when I start lowering it in.....
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 06:10 PM
  #24  
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Just wanted to post this in case someone can use it. Found the mount kit for alternator and power steering to include bolts for $175. Original style.

https://keenparts.com/pages/detail.p...partnum=140318
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 06:34 PM
  #25  
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Link don't seem to be working for me, but that sounds like a good price.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 06:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by John 65
Link don't seem to be working for me, but that sounds like a good price.
I think their server certificate is messed up. Try it without the https://
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 08:57 PM
  #27  
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All big block vettes use a short water pump.. In 71' they had a 5/8" shaft. Edelbrock makes a Victor water pump with the 5/8" shaft that will work with oem pullies/brackets.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 11:40 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
All big block vettes use a short water pump.. In 71' they had a 5/8" shaft. Edelbrock makes a Victor water pump with the 5/8" shaft that will work with oem pullies/brackets.
Thanks. I will definitely keep that in mind. I just ordered the brackets(alt and P/S). The pulleys I ordered were from a long water pump BBC. This was before I knew corvettes had their own setup. I called to try and exchange for a short water pump set and they said that the only difference is the crank and water pump pulleys. It has a 5/8" P/S pulley(single groove) and 2.8" diameter(single groove) alt pulley. According to ajrothm, the P/S should be fine. All the other pulleys seem to be 3". Will it work? Heres the link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310869325721

Seems like the only thing I have left are a fuel pump and belts. My biggest fears are the fan hitting the rad(meaning electric water pump & fan) and hood not closing.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 03:21 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 77vet
So far Ive ordered the BBC long water pump pulleys and a set of shorty headers. Am I correct in assuming that if they fit a '73 with a big block it should fit fine in a '77? I dont have an air pump and removed the A/C compressor, so with that setup I think the alternator is on the pass. side and P/S on drivers side, but Im having a real hard time finding the V-belts. After looking at comp cams I found the Xtreme Energy cam kit that fits well with the stock motor/torque converter, and has a rough idle.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k11-242-3

That and new main/rod bearings and rings for peace of mind, and I think Ill be ready to put it in.
If you are using 73 brackets just go ahead and order 73 belts
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 01:58 PM
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I am also converting my 1971 Coupe from 350 auto to 454(468) 4-speed. Mine is a project car I bought without an engine or trans so my expenditure will be close to just restoring her with the 350 auto or darn close. Anyways, nobody has mentioned drive line issues such as trans slip yoke, differential yokes(3) and half shafts. I have 454 half shafts already but now have to contemplate issues with small block standard yokes and drive shaft(s) I have a 4-speed drive shaft so I think thats fine and my input yoke on the differential is fine. My Muncie M21 I have is a 27 spline output and I have a yoke for that, GM standard slip yoke, but wonder if I have to go beefier on that. I do plan on heavy duty u-joints all around. This 454 has been bored .60 over and I want to use a cam just 2 steps over a stock 70 LS5 spec. Holly 750 and performer intake. I wouldn't think my horsepower and torque will end up crazy or even close. I hoping for around 425 h.p. and 450 ft/lbs.
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 05:29 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by lamborg1
I am also converting my 1971 Coupe from 350 auto to 454(468) 4-speed. Mine is a project car I bought without an engine or trans so my expenditure will be close to just restoring her with the 350 auto or darn close. Anyways, nobody has mentioned drive line issues such as trans slip yoke, differential yokes(3) and half shafts. I have 454 half shafts already but now have to contemplate issues with small block standard yokes and drive shaft(s) I have a 4-speed drive shaft so I think thats fine and my input yoke on the differential is fine. My Muncie M21 I have is a 27 spline output and I have a yoke for that, GM standard slip yoke, but wonder if I have to go beefier on that. I do plan on heavy duty u-joints all around. This 454 has been bored .60 over and I want to use a cam just 2 steps over a stock 70 LS5 spec. Holly 750 and performer intake. I wouldn't think my horsepower and torque will end up crazy or even close. I hoping for around 425 h.p. and 450 ft/lbs.
This post is a few years old. I’ve had my big block in for awhile. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve tried something and had to go in a different direction. But up until now i machined .030 over, popup pistons, rectangular aluminum Chevy performance L88 reman heads, lunati roller(well roller everything), Holley billet 750 double pumper, electric water pump, 150 amp alt, Dewitt rad and fans, hydro boost brakes, 4” side pipes. Used the pancake intake because of stock hood( worried about clearance). Holley fuel pump, and mini starter. That’s about all I can think off the top of my head. As for the tranny back, I still have the original 350 turbo. I have a 700r4 waiting to be beefed to put in. Only issue for that is shortening driveshaft a few inches. I don’t think you’d need new halfshafts. I took my rearend out and put in a 3.70 and powder coated it all while it was out and beefed up ujoints. And added a mono spring. Now my tires are too thin to keep any traction lol. Currently putting in msd.
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 07:14 AM
  #32  
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w/batts/Ignore internet hp #s there is NOthing like the torque of a BBC esp at part throttle. I had a 427 BB build planned til the motor was stolen (Orig 390hp block)
Sure my 383 makes lots of hp but is not th esame compared. Plus the exh note is pure thunder, cant help but want it.
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 08:38 AM
  #33  
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My 76 didn't need any spring work when my 454 went in.
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 10:48 AM
  #34  
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Didn’t NEED springs per se, I saw the leaf spring cushions were dry rotted. I was just going to replace them but found the monospring and liked it, lol. Still need to add a rear sway bar, and thinking of beefing up the front springs but i don’t think it truly needs it. Definitely plan on getting some QA1s and Wilwood brakes.
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 11:57 AM
  #35  
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You lose about a half inch of height swapping to BBC with same springs. Usually considered an impovement.

Last edited by derekderek; Dec 8, 2018 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 12:38 PM
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Maybe pulling a couple of rear leafs from the spring out back might improve looks and weight distribution? Be more cost effective than buying a 7 leaf to replace the 9 leaf??
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 12:44 PM
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Oh yeah! Small block high revving to get power. But nothing like that low end torque and exhaust rumble(vibration) of that rat big block. Got a 455 matching numbers in my 76 Trans Am and a 402 BBC for my 72 Camaro SS project. Waiting in the wings is my other 76 T/A rust bucket for the 71 455 Poncho I have for her. I'll keep my 350 small block equipped 77 Z28 by using the 71 Vette 350 CJL engine, should make an enjoyable cruiser. But for brute power and grunt, big blocks make for nice feelings and sound. My opinion though. LOL
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 02:24 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by lamborg1
Maybe pulling a couple of rear leafs from the spring out back might improve looks and weight distribution? Be more cost effective than buying a 7 leaf to replace the 9 leaf??
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...1963-1977.html

Dont remember if I got it from ekler but that’s the part. I love it. I’m not really into keeping it original. I’m all about new tech. And I prefer it built, not bought, lol.
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 05:13 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Milan454
My 76 didn't need any spring work when my 454 went in.
Yup, same here when the 454 went in my 77. Same front and rear springs.

All I did was add the rear sway bar, which bolted right up.

Had a handful of Corvettes through the years, but my Frankenstein 77 is the most fun.

Good luck.
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Old Dec 11, 2018 | 10:24 AM
  #40  
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Great thing about Franky's Do what you want and don't worry about the NCRS headaches.... Just keep the expenditures down and try not to get upside down. LOL
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