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It's been quite a while since I did that job, but as I remember, the Corvette has "pockets" for each end of the coil spring to locate in. The frame has one, and the lower control arm has one. In order to have the spring locate in these "pockets" correctly, you take an equal amount off each end of the spring.
I measured around the OD of the spring to get a number. For some reason, I seem to recall it was 10". So I measured back 5" from each end of the spring, and that's where I made my cut. I used a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder.
Looking at the picture that "redman" posted in post #13, the front view of his car, that's about the same height as my wife's car was, after I finished the spring swap.
Gooood info! So THAT'S how you remove 1/2 wrap of a coil spring and make it fit correctly in the upper and lower pocket-stops!
Thanks guys for all the great information. I was wondering about the pockets lining up when u cut them, now i see the method to the madness. A little lower stance in the rear would level out my half shafts as well, sort that out later. Once i get the springs out i'll probably re-open the thread for more advise. For now, heading back off shore tonight for another 28 day, so it will be a while before I can get back to spending more relaxing time with the ole girl. Thanks again for all your help here on the forum, you have all been a great help.
I just wanted to update something....After re-reading one of my previous posts, I want to make a correction. The springs I used, and cut a half coil from, were VB&P's 460 lb/in springs, not the 550s.....
I know it's been awhile since I started this thread but have been out of town. Today I took some pics of my rear suspension. I appears to me that the spring is too stiff. I put my full weight on each side of the car and maybe lowered it by max an inch.
This pic shows the remaining curl on the spring with the weight on the car and a full tank of gas. The spring curl is parallel with the half shafts. I did a test with the spring disconnected and lowered the car until the half shafts were parallel with the car and the ride height looked good. Approximately 1-1/4" from fender to tire.
I have 10" bolts on the way, but think that will bring my spring end too close to my tire.
This pic gives a general idea of the fender to tire clearance both front and back. Once I have the back sorted I have to tackle the front.
I guess my question is, is there a difference between spring manufactures. If so what are you guys using?
The 78/79 C3's all seem to sit low in the back and too high in the front. I have had 550 springs front and a 360 VBP rear spring for years and the stance was a little too high in the front. With the L-82 rebuild last Spring 2014 and the addition of aluminum heads, the front is way too high now. I am thinking of cutting a 1/4 coil off the top AND bottom of each coil this Spring-looking for a drop in the front of about 1-1.5 inches. BTW-with 255/45/17 ZR tires and the above springs, the car has never rode better…and handled as well. Bilstein HD's front/Bilstein Sports rear.
i have the VBP 360 spring and with 10" bolts it sits slightly high but i have 275-60-15 Drag Radials in back so it really sits nice. other spring mfg's springs sit a bit higher.
The 78/79 C3's all seem to sit low in the back and too high in the front. I have had 550 springs front and a 360 VBP rear spring for years and the stance was a little too high in the front. With the L-82 rebuild last Spring 2014 and the addition of aluminum heads, the front is way too high now. I am thinking of cutting a 1/4 coil off the top AND bottom of each coil this Spring-looking for a drop in the front of about 1-1.5 inches. BTW-with 255/45/17 ZR tires and the above springs, the car has never rode better…and handled as well. Bilstein HD's front/Bilstein Sports rear.
Thanks jb78L
I have remove the AC, and am running aluminium vortec heads and intake and I am sitting at least 2" high in front and 3" in the back. I need to cut my front springs as well but really don't know how to figure out how much to cut off. I have 10" bolts on the way for the rear, and plan to start on the front tomorrow. How did u determine you need a total 1/2 coil for 1-1/2" drop.
Thanks
Clyde
Thanks jb78L
I have remove the AC, and am running aluminium vortec heads and intake and I am sitting at least 2" high in front and 3" in the back. I need to cut my front springs as well but really don't know how to figure out how much to cut off. I have 10" bolts on the way for the rear, and plan to start on the front tomorrow. How did u determine you need a total 1/2 coil for 1-1/2" drop.
Thanks
Clyde
To be honest, I am guessing that 1/2 coil will not be drastic and trying to stay conservative. I have also been reading how much others have cut over the past year on the forum and what the drop was…Anyone out there who has cut their coils, how much did you cut and what was the drop…?? I am guessing that 1/2 coil will drop the front at most 1.5 inches but I can live with 1 inch or 1 3/4 inch drop as well…hedging...
i have the VBP 360 spring and with 10" bolts it sits slightly high but i have 275-60-15 Drag Radials in back so it really sits nice. other spring mfg's springs sit a bit higher.
I have 255/60/R15, with a 355 rating and 8" bolts in the rear and 550s in the front with Belstines HD shocks all around. I should have my 10" bolts tomorrow. I really need to get my height figured out so I can install my offset upper arm shafts anf try and set my caster for my R/P. It won't return to center the way it is set now.
Thanks
Clyde
To be honest, I am guessing that 1/2 coil will not be drastic and trying to stay conservative. I have also been reading how much others have cut over the past year on the forum and what the drop was…Anyone out there who has cut their coils, how much did you cut and what was the drop…?? I am guessing that 1/2 coil will drop the front at most 1.5 inches but I can live with 1 inch or 1 3/4 inch drop as well…hedging...
I was thinking about removing the shock and see if I could measure the spring as it sits installed, remove it and compress it to that length and then see how much of a coil I needed to remove to get my 2". No idea if it will work. Maybe cut a little less than I calculate, and give it a try. Triel and error I guess. Just be careful not to cut too much.
I was thinking about removing the shock and see if I could measure the spring as it sits installed, remove it and compress it to that length and then see how much of a coil I needed to remove to get my 2". No idea if it will work. Maybe cut a little less than I calculate, and give it a try. Triel and error I guess. Just be careful not to cut too much.
I am looking for this stance or a bit lower in front (don't have a current picture):
When a person says the springs fit in the pockets in both upper and lower I question this. There is an area where the end of the spring appears to be best seated, but I don't think you can make this happen on upper and lower side at the same time. I think this need some expertise to comment.
Its not necessarily that your rear spring is too heavy; but it has too much arch. TRW design fiberglass springs consistently have too much arch. There are countless threads on this forum documenting this. Best bet is get a VBP spring. They make their springs in house and they have been doing it a long time.
TRW design springs all come from Muskegan Brake. They outsource the manufacture of their springs. They are aware that their springs have too much arch but have chosen to ignore the problem.
i cut 3/4 of a coil and while it is exactly what i wanted it may be low for some people. a guy that did spring work for over 40 years told me if you want to drop a coil " a good rule of thumb" is measure your wheel well height and decide where you want it then cut that much off the total height of the spring. i decided on a 2 1/2" drop and cut that off the total height of the coil which ended up being 3/4 of a coil. personally id start at 1/2 a coil and see if thats what you want. i cut one end of the spring.
Its not necessarily that your rear spring is too heavy; but it has too much arch. TRW design fiberglass springs consistently have too much arch. There are countless threads on this forum documenting this. Best bet is get a VBP spring. They make their springs in house and they have been doing it a long time.
TRW design springs all come from Muskegan Brake. They outsource the manufacture of their springs. They are aware that their springs have too much arch but have chosen to ignore the problem.
This is what I have been trying to get at. With no weight on my spring u can use it for a bow. I will probably use the 10" bolts to set ride height for now so I can do my front, but order a VBP before I take her out in the spring.
Because this was an old thread I started another thread trying to get some pics of different springs from the rear with with the load on the car.
Thanks
Clyde
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by iwasmenowhesgone
When a person says the springs fit in the pockets in both upper and lower I question this. There is an area where the end of the spring appears to be best seated, but I don't think you can make this happen on upper and lower side at the same time...
Yes. If cutting coils to fine tune front ride height, more often than not the lower ends of the springs will fall short when the upper ones - and more important of the two - are properly seated. So, install the cut ends down and worry about how well the top ends fit in place.
.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Mar 11, 2015 at 12:16 AM.
When a person says the springs fit in the pockets in both upper and lower I question this. There is an area where the end of the spring appears to be best seated, but I don't think you can make this happen on upper and lower side at the same time. I think this need some expertise to comment.
The "pockets" in both the spring and the frame, are designed and placed to capture the spring, and prevent it from rotating. The spring is wound, and terminated, such that the spring engages in these "pockets". This is why, when I previously talked about cutting coils, that I said that you remove an equal amount from EACH end of the spring. This retains the relationship between the ends of the coils, and they'll still sit correctly in the "pockets".....
Yes. If cutting coils to fine tune front ride height, more often than not the lower ends of the springs will fall short when the upper ones - and more important of the two - are properly seated. So, install the cut ends down and worry about how well the top ends fit in place.
.
Thanks for all the great info guys. Really appreciate it.
