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I was told that a heat plate under the Holley Carburetor will do great and will help with the occasional flooding... any suggestions?..and where to find one??
I don't know which model Carb I have
here's my Holley Carb ....can you tell what it is???
And yes, you can use both at the same time, they both work to some amount, they reduce the heat to the carb to reduce the after shut down boiling of the fuel problems that are stinking up the garage and draining the float bowels..
Although you seem bent on getting a heat shield, I'm afraid your problem is something else that's causing your flooding. I've run various Holleys on my '72 for the last 38 years and have never had flooding problems and I don't run the heat shield.
You could check your float to see that it doesn't have a leak or it's filled with fuel. Maybe you need a new needle and seat (they do wear out). Your fuel pressure could be too high. Possibly your fuel level is set a little too high and you're able to run fine most of the time but on occasion the bowl fills too much and floods. I'd look elsewhere because I really don't think a shield is going to solve your problem. Good Luck.
Duane
Although you seem bent on getting a heat shield, I'm afraid your problem is something else that's causing your flooding. I've run various Holleys on my '72 for the last 38 years and have never had flooding problems and I don't run the heat shield.
You could check your float to see that it doesn't have a leak or it's filled with fuel. Maybe you need a new needle and seat (they do wear out). Your fuel pressure could be too high. Possibly your fuel level is set a little too high and you're able to run fine most of the time but on occasion the bowl fills too much and floods. I'd look elsewhere because I really don't think a shield is going to solve your problem. Good Luck.
Duane
As stated above, yes, you have other problems.
Try a friends carb, to see if you can reproduce what is going on with yours. Trying to doctor up the problem with the shield/spacer is going to be iffy in solving the problem.
I agree with other here regarding the flooding condition...look into the carb. I experienced a flooding condition that had me pulling hair (and I ain't got much). Turns out I had a tiny hole in the metal float of my 2818-1 Holley. When she got warmed up (hot), the hole expanded and sucked gas into the float. When she cooled down, the hole closed up and the weighted with gas float caused my excessive flooding.
Fixed it by replacing the float and while I had her off the intake decided to put an aluminum heat deflector that Mr. Gasket sells in place.
Here's my posted topic on my flooding condition and heat shield install:
As Duane4238 stated...I get the flooding occasionally and in the summer..
I will have the needle checked and the float...but want to install the shield as well...I figured it won't hurt
And yes, you can use both at the same time, they both work to some amount, they reduce the heat to the carb to reduce the after shut down boiling of the fuel problems that are stinking up the garage and draining the float bowels..
As Duane4238 stated...I get the flooding occasionally and in the summer..
I will have the needle checked and the float...but want to install the shield as well...I figured it won't hurt
Thanks for your help.
I have used heat shields - and they work.
For those who don't believe, GM made them years ago.
And yes, you can use both at the same time, they both work to some amount, they reduce the heat to the carb to reduce the after shut down boiling of the fuel problems that are stinking up the garage and draining the float bowels..
Mod75, I was able to locate a heat plate just like the one on your picture..will this plate fit on my Holly carb. 80555?..the one from summit looks different...? ..also should I use a gasket or just the shield??
Thanks
Last edited by Cattiva73; Feb 14, 2015 at 10:23 AM.
Do you live somewhere with high ambient temps? I have read on this forum that having the fuel return line connected helps with this issue. I can't see in your pic whether yours is or not. I know a lot of engines fitted with Holleys have the return disconnected (mine included). Just an idea, when you return from a drive park the car somewhere cool or in the shade lift the hood, let the engine cool and see if the problem occurs, the fibreglass hood makes a great insulator to keep the heat in around the carb when the engine is stopped and no fan running to push air out of the engine compartment.
I have had a Holley 650 DP on my L46 for years and never had any issues that required a "heat plate" - or any issues at all! I have had some "hard driving" very hot days, too! As others have stated, look deeper!
I have had a Holley 650 DP on my L46 for years and never had any issues that required a "heat plate" - or any issues at all! I have had some "hard driving" very hot days, too! As others have stated, look deeper!
I believe you when you say that you have had no problems from heat.
Yes, there could be problems with fuel pressure, needle/seats, or float settings, lack of a by-pass, or fuel line routing. The engine could even be running hotter because of cooling or tuning issues.
That does not mean that insulators or heat isolators are not a help in some situations. Every car is not the same. Differences in intake manifolds (and exhaust crossovers), exhaust systems, engine compartment ventilation, Fuel used, and even the climate where you drive can make heat an issue.
I don't use shields and/or isolators on every car, but there are times where they just plain work.
Cattiva73 - If you are sure the issues you have are due to fuel boiling, the heat shield, especially if used with a fuel return line, will help. I have been there/done that. In the dead heat of summer, the fuel line and the fuel bowls on my Holley DP would boil over with any substantial driving. It ONLY did this in July/August when Ohio summers are at their hottest.
I made sure my timing was set correctly and I had no other issues like a dirty needle/seat or bad float. My 383 did not run overly hot, maybe 190 on the highway - it was just modern gas (I believe modern fuels boil at lower temps than fuels in the 70s) in a naturally aspirated engine (i.e., not under the same pressurization as fuel injection).
I got in touch with Lars on this forum, and explained my issues. He recommended the heat shield/return line solution - and it worked extremely well. If you do install a return line, it should be connected as close to the carb inlet as possible to relieve any fuel boiling prior to entering the carb. The heat shield will just deflect some of the radiant heat off the fuel bowl, it won't keep all heat off the carb.
Do a search on the forum for this, you will see some good examples that may help you out. Hope this helps.
Cattiva73 - If you are sure the issues you have are due to fuel boiling, the heat shield, especially if used with a fuel return line, will help. I have been there/done that. In the dead heat of summer, the fuel line and the fuel bowls on my Holley DP would boil over with any substantial driving. It ONLY did this in July/August when Ohio summers are at their hottest.
I made sure my timing was set correctly and I had no other issues like a dirty needle/seat or bad float. My 383 did not run overly hot, maybe 190 on the highway - it was just modern gas (I believe modern fuels boil at lower temps than fuels in the 70s) in a naturally aspirated engine (i.e., not under the same pressurization as fuel injection).
I got in touch with Lars on this forum, and explained my issues. He recommended the heat shield/return line solution - and it worked extremely well. If you do install a return line, it should be connected as close to the carb inlet as possible to relieve any fuel boiling prior to entering the carb. The heat shield will just deflect some of the radiant heat off the fuel bowl, it won't keep all heat off the carb.
Do a search on the forum for this, you will see some good examples that may help you out. Hope this helps.