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I know the vacuum system has been dealt with ALOT. But...
I had a leaky vacuum reservoir and by past it and the headlights worked fine, a little slow, but not bad. Tested the new tank ... no leaks, installed it and now the lights barely move and never come all the up. I have tuned the 350/350 to Lars's specs (runs great). According to my vacuum gauge, I am only pulling 10 psi at the connection to the manifold. Could that be my problem?
Mine will come up at 10" of vacuum, so probably not your problem, at least not all of it.
If you idle it up to 1500 to 2000 do your headlights come up then and what is your vacuum at that point? If you have a stock engine then you should have at least 17" or so of vacuum at idle.
Mine will come up at 10" of vacuum, so probably not your problem, at least not all of it.
If you idle it up to 1500 to 2000 do your headlights come up then and what is your vacuum at that point? If you have a stock engine then you should have at least 17" or so of vacuum at idle.
The lights move up a little more (about 2 in) at 1500 rpm. My vacuum is about 20 inches at the higher rpm. I've checked the hose configuration. My car is a early 69. I have to use the 68 and 69 vacuum diagram to trouble shoot.
I've been looking at the post "How your vacuum system works" Figure 4 has got me confused. Figures 2 and 3 refer to a vacuum tank, but figure 4 says "To Air Tank". Any idea what is meant by that?
The headlight system is one of the items on mine I have not had to work on so far. So I'm not the guy to tell you where exactly to look.
I would start by tracing out hoses and see if I have a serious leak somewhere. It sounds like that could be a problem. Either that or the headlight actuators themselves.
If 20" won't bring them up then you have a significant loss of vacuum somewhere along the line or at the end of the line (actuator).
The author used his 3 illustrations, and the fourth is from another source. In his case, vacuum tank and air tank are interchangeable, or the same thing.
Ten lbs of vacuum is more than enough to operate your headlights, that is if they are not leaking. You need to check each component for leaks. Are your actuators and relays original?
The headlight system is one of the items on mine I have not had to work on so far. So I'm not the guy to tell you where exactly to look.
I would start by tracing out hoses and see if I have a serious leak somewhere. It sounds like that could be a problem. Either that or the headlight actuators themselves.
If 20" won't bring them up then you have a significant loss of vacuum somewhere along the line or at the end of the line (actuator).
The author used his 3 illustrations, and the fourth is from another source. In his case, vacuum tank and air tank are interchangeable, or the same thing.
Ten lbs of vacuum is more than enough to operate your headlights, that is if they are not leaking. You need to check each component for leaks. Are your actuators and relays original?
The actuators and relays are not original, but I don't know how old they are. I've had the car for 6 years. Looks like I will go through the entire system. The part that's really getting me is the fact that they worked when I bypassed the old vacuum tank and now don't work with the new vacuum tank. One giant step BACKWARDS!
The actuators and relays are not original, but I don't know how old they are. I've had the car for 6 years. Looks like I will go through the entire system. The part that's really getting me is the fact that they worked when I bypassed the old vacuum tank and now don't work with the new vacuum tank. One giant step BACKWARDS!
Thanks for the input.
Sounds like the place to start is with the new vacuum tank. Make sure connections are hooked up right.
Measuring 10"Hg at the manifold port (when idling) doesn't mean that 10"Hg is all your engine will make. You could have lots of little leaks in the system that cause it to drop significantly [without having a major leak]. To know what vacuum your engine is capable of making, you need to remove and plug off ALL the vacuum system lines from the manifold (except for vacuum advance can) and THEN make your measurement. If you get significantly more than 10"Hg, you have some leaks.
The most common place for leakage, when you have headlamp opening problems, is worn vacuum relays at the headlamps.