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I can tell you that much of the rumor often spoken about poly bushings (not for trailing arms, IMO) but for front upper and lower control arms bushings (I have had them for years) as well heim joints for the strut rods in the rear, have a negligible effect on ride quality but a hugh benefit in control….
Agree, I have heim joints on the strut rods as well and the ride is very comfortable.
BUT...what is the MOST IMPORTANT PART...that many may not know or have picked up on is....NOTICE the position of the concentric bolts for each strut rod where it is bolted to the brackets UNDER the differential. The position of these concentric bolts are the SAME....even though he used adjustable strut rods. The positioning of these concentric bolts can drastically effect the suspension and provide different characteristics. SO...if the heads of the bolts were BOTH at the 6 o'clock' position....it would change how the rear suspension would function...and the same as if the drivers side head of the concentric bolt was at the 9 'o'clock position and the passengers at the 3 'o'clock position. It make a difference and he paid attention to the fine details and NOT just tighten these concentric bolts in whatever position he felt like and then adjust out the strut rod for the camber setting.
BUT...what is the MOST IMPORTANT PART...that many may not know or have picked up on is....NOTICE the position of the concentric bolts for each strut rod where it is bolted to the brackets UNDER the differential. The position of these concentric bolts are the SAME....even though he used adjustable strut rods. The positioning of these concentric bolts can drastically effect the suspension and provide different characteristics. SO...if the heads of the bolts were BOTH at the 6 o'clock' position....it would change how the rear suspension would function...and the same as if the drivers side head of the concentric bolt was at the 9 'o'clock position and the passengers at the 3 'o'clock position. It make a difference and he paid attention to the fine details and NOT just tighten these concentric bolts in whatever position he felt like and then adjust out the strut rod for the camber setting.
GOOD job....for whatever that is worth.
DUB
Thanks DUB!
Anybody notice anything that doesn't quite "fit" in these pics?
The competition adjustable struts with heim joint ends that I have had for about 10 years now do not use the stock OEM camber plate and bolts..the position of a true competition heim strut willl only have 1 position for the bolt...through the center of the square plate. One of the advantage of using te strut below and other adjustable struts is to not have to use the GM camber plate and bolt. Here is the kit I used and it is head and shoulders over the stock system and other struts I have used:
The competition adjustable struts with heim joint ends that I have had for about 10 years now do not use the stock OEM camber plate and bolts..the position of a true competition heim strut willl only have 1 position for the bolt...through the center of the square plate. One of the advantage of using te strut below and other adjustable struts is to not have to use the GM camber plate and bolt. Here is the kit I used and it is head and shoulders over the stock system and other struts I have used:
I like Global Wests stuff. Not knowing what you used...but in your previous photo you used the factory concentric bolts....but in the kit in this photo above use the square plates where you can position the angle of your strut rod to achieve different suspension dynamics. I like the Global West option by how they are drilling the 3 holes in different locations.
I always weld the strut rod bracket where the concentric or square washer is installed so the spot welds do not fail and allow the strut rod to move. It never has done it to me...but I figure...why not when Vette Brakes and Products recommended it over 20+ years ago.
Truthfully..I do not know if I would have commented on your question correctly 'Kid Vette' and that is due to many manufactures make things there way....and I would have to have had your original strut rod laying on a table and match these new ones up to it so when the new ones have been threaded in all the way....I could compare them.
Global West makes good stuff but I have not had any issues with the Midamerica comp struts with the single bolt hole in the center plate…the adjustability comes in turning the actual strut for the correct camber desired so not so sure why you would need different holes in the plate for the street driving..maybe for racing..but even then..
The main advantages of my comp struts was:
1. No camber bolt-locked in camber that will not change-not sure why your set had the 3 different holes in the locking plate-never seen that system before.
2. no flexing of the actual struts under load like the OEM struts
3. NO bushings to flex which causes unwanted camber changes in corners or just riding down the road.
Global West makes good stuff but I have not had any issues with the Midamerica comp struts with the single bolt hole in the center plate…the adjustability comes in turning the actual strut for the correct camber desired so not so sure why you would need different holes in the plate for the street driving..maybe for racing..but even then..
The main advantages of my comp struts was:
1. No camber bolt-locked in camber that will not change-not sure why your set had the 3 different holes in the locking plate-never seen that system before.
2. no flexing of the actual struts under load like the OEM struts
3. NO bushings to flex which causes unwanted camber changes in corners or just riding down the road.
The 3 different hole positions in the square plate...which is basically the same as turning the concentric bolt for each side....changes the angle of the strut rod.....and changes how the car handles. It gives a person options for handling depending on what they are using the Corvette for versus the square plate with the hole in the middle.
I used plates similar to the global west design with the 3 holes to tune the camber curve of the rear suspension. Depending on the vertical location of the inner pivot, the amount of camber gain changes. Using these plates with VB&P's bracket I was able to adjust the camber gain to my liking.
BUT...what is the MOST IMPORTANT PART...that many may not know or have picked up on is....NOTICE the position of the concentric bolts for each strut rod where it is bolted to the brackets UNDER the differential. The position of these concentric bolts are the SAME....even though he used adjustable strut rods. The positioning of these concentric bolts can drastically effect the suspension and provide different characteristics. SO...if the heads of the bolts were BOTH at the 6 o'clock' position....it would change how the rear suspension would function...and the same as if the drivers side head of the concentric bolt was at the 9 'o'clock position and the passengers at the 3 'o'clock position. It make a difference and he paid attention to the fine details and NOT just tighten these concentric bolts in whatever position he felt like and then adjust out the strut rod for the camber setting.
GOOD job....for whatever that is worth.
DUB
Can the positioning of these concentric bolts (while having correct camber) effect the suspension and provide different handling characteristics on stock strut rods such as on an 82'?
I went with the VB&P Smart Strut Brackets because they lower the inner pivot point of the strut rods 1/2" as Greenwood suggested. This lowers the roll center and reduces camber gain. The stock geometry has a too high roll center and therefore a jacking effect.
Then for drag racing you rotate the cams on the bracket 180 degrees which lowers the inner pivot to its lowest point and reduces camber gain to almost zero which is what you want. This increases contact patch of the tires on squat when you launch.
My apologies to the OP for totally hijacking their thread.
Can the positioning of these concentric bolts (while having correct camber) effect the suspension and provide different handling characteristics on stock strut rods such as on an 82'?
IF you still have the FACTORY strut rod brackets still attached to your differential....NONE of this matters....and this is beacsue the slot in the factory strut rod bracket is horizontal....and only allows the strut rod (original or adjustable) to move in and out.
The strut rod brackets on 'KidVette's' car are different where the slots in the brackets are angled allowing the strut rod angle to change when the concentric bolt head is rotated.
BUT...what is the MOST IMPORTANT PART...that many may not know or have picked up on is....NOTICE the position of the concentric bolts for each strut rod where it is bolted to the brackets UNDER the differential. The position of these concentric bolts are the SAME....even though he used adjustable strut rods. The positioning of these concentric bolts can drastically effect the suspension and provide different characteristics. SO...if the heads of the bolts were BOTH at the 6 o'clock' position....it would change how the rear suspension would function...and the same as if the drivers side head of the concentric bolt was at the 9 'o'clock position and the passengers at the 3 'o'clock position. It make a difference and he paid attention to the fine details and NOT just tighten these concentric bolts in whatever position he felt like and then adjust out the strut rod for the camber setting.
You lost me on this comment. I though I was nice to KidVette.
I was not pointing out a problem in what KidVette did..I was commenting on why the concentric bolts were like they were...because they were installed that was for a specific reason....because he is NOT using the factory strut rod mounting bracket. Just in case some members did not pick up on a bracket change.
Well my OP was about suggested TA's and it turned into more than that so I figured I would add that I too just moments ago finished up my comp strut rod install. Along with 360lb VBP fiberglass spring and bilstein shocks. Did it on a rainy day and now hoping for a Sunny one soon so I can test the ride. I would like t know how you guys adjust camber. I made a jig and then use my Wixey Digital gauge (Used to set angles on my table saw blade). It works really well.
Well my OP was about suggested TA's and it turned into more than that so I figured I would add that I too just moments ago finished up my comp strut rod install. Along with 360lb VBP fiberglass spring and bilstein shocks. Did it on a rainy day and now hoping for a Sunny one soon so I can test the ride. I would like t know how you guys adjust camber. I made a jig and then use my Wixey Digital gauge (Used to set angles on my table saw blade). It works really well.
I did something similar until I could get it to the alignment shop. Turns out I was pretty close.
I did something similar until I could get it to the alignment shop. Turns out I was pretty close.
Got pics?
I did but phone died before I transferred them. Going to re-do and I will post them. BTW, today was a sunny one so I took a ride and wow what difference. I know the camber is close so I did push it just a little. At hwy speeds the car rides way different. Believe it or not, smoother. Handled hard straight line acceleration very well, both rolling and from a stop. Anyway will get some alignment pics up when I dig my jig out and re-measure.