74 won't start
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
74 won't start
I have made this post last summer and tried everything that was recommended but I am still having issues.
RECAP: car starts up fine first time then after driving it for about 30-40 minutes it won't start (almost always) until about 1-2 hours later. sometimes it goes to start and then turns off (like no gas getting to engine) and it won't start again for 5 minutes. the not starting thing is basically when I turn the key on there is nothing at all trying to start but all my lights and radio still work so I didn't think it was the battery. Tried a new battery when it didn't start and still wouldn't start. When I jump it at any time it starts right up. I put a new starter on it (hasn't helped). I put 2 new battery cables on and nothing. Could it be the coil/solenoid? Could it be a battery even though I have radio and dash lights? Again the car doesn't even try to turn over just nothing.
Please help!
RECAP: car starts up fine first time then after driving it for about 30-40 minutes it won't start (almost always) until about 1-2 hours later. sometimes it goes to start and then turns off (like no gas getting to engine) and it won't start again for 5 minutes. the not starting thing is basically when I turn the key on there is nothing at all trying to start but all my lights and radio still work so I didn't think it was the battery. Tried a new battery when it didn't start and still wouldn't start. When I jump it at any time it starts right up. I put a new starter on it (hasn't helped). I put 2 new battery cables on and nothing. Could it be the coil/solenoid? Could it be a battery even though I have radio and dash lights? Again the car doesn't even try to turn over just nothing.
Please help!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Battery power to run headlites or radio is nothing compared to the power to crank a starter....Clean the ground cable from the battery and frame under the car by the drivers seat..
And you almost never have enough power to crank a engine...probably nothing wrong with the starter ither
And you almost never have enough power to crank a engine...probably nothing wrong with the starter ither
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
As mentioned the cables are brand new and I cleaned off all frame and part connections before attaching them so i am not sure that is the problem. Also the car doesn't even try to turn over it just is like there is not battery there at all as the key turns but nothing almost like it has overheated and needs to cool down. i also put a heat shield cover over the starter.
i haven't tried the volt meter but I was at a battery place when it didnt' start and they brought their machine out and said the battery was fine and they were perplexed when the new battery didn't do anything but a jump does.
will try either of these again if anyone feels this is it. hate driving it and having to always get a jump. most jumper boxes won't work either becuase they dont have enough power since it is a v8.
i haven't tried the volt meter but I was at a battery place when it didnt' start and they brought their machine out and said the battery was fine and they were perplexed when the new battery didn't do anything but a jump does.
will try either of these again if anyone feels this is it. hate driving it and having to always get a jump. most jumper boxes won't work either becuase they dont have enough power since it is a v8.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Pflugerville Texas
Does it have headers?
Sounds like the started/solenoid is getting hot. I had the exact same thing happen on a 70' Buick GS. I carried a spray bottle with water in it back then. My fix back then was to wrap the solenoid with header heat tape.
Sounds like the started/solenoid is getting hot. I had the exact same thing happen on a 70' Buick GS. I carried a spray bottle with water in it back then. My fix back then was to wrap the solenoid with header heat tape.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 15
From: Mobile Alabama
OK, so it is showing the same symptoms with new cables, battery, and starter. Check for voltage going to the S terminal on the solenoid when it will not crank. If you are not getting voltage, you can start working back to the through the wiring until you find the problem. If it is getting voltage, one of the parts is bad, you have a bad connection, or weak battery.
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Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 635
Likes: 118
From: Lakemont, GA
I know you said you changed the ground cable but try to run a jumper cable from the negative terminal on the battery to the ground point on the starter. If it starts on a jump you are either adding voltage (hot) or ground that you are not supplying from your battery.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
You said automatic, well then the shift cable may be the problem with corrosion........if theres a white buildup it may be the problem as a car could be seeking a good ground...and find it through the shift cable...
as simple as that
as simple as that
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
74 won't start
So I am still having issues. Now they (mechanics) are going back to it is the solenoid getting too hot. I do have a heat wrap on the starter/solenoid and header tape. They are suggesting I get a smaller (almost special order) diameter starter w/something magnetic in it which should do the trick? If they find something should I give it a try or should I try an attachable solenoid shield and/or starter shield?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
So I am still having issues. Now they (mechanics) are going back to it is the solenoid getting too hot. I do have a heat wrap on the starter/solenoid and header tape. They are suggesting I get a smaller (almost special order) diameter starter w/something magnetic in it which should do the trick? If they find something should I give it a try or should I try an attachable solenoid shield and/or starter shield?
Its very possible your neutral safety switch is shot (about 3" to the right of your shifter). Whenever it doesn't crank when in PARK try cranking it in NEUTRAL. But regardless of whether it cranks or not the switch is likely worn out after all these years.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,037
Likes: 15
From: Mobile Alabama
Sometime you can have resistance in the circuit (from heat) and also have old connections that drop the voltage. That is why I asked about voltage. I run a "Ford" stater solenoid on all of my old school SBC's. It allows full voltage and current flow to the starter solenoid and can stop some of the hot soak problems.
Check these links
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sometimes.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-starter.html
Check these links
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sometimes.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-starter.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 40
Safety switches wear internally . Heat will inhibit worn dirty switch to pass sufficient current .
Might bypass clutch switch or neutral safety to TEST trial see if they might make a difference. Make up a little jumper wire or bypass to see what happens.Or course if one of these are bad , you want to replace the switch.
Door switches and thief alarm are often shorted and drain batteries.
Starters have bad spots , could be a worn spot on harness no one is noticing .
Might bypass clutch switch or neutral safety to TEST trial see if they might make a difference. Make up a little jumper wire or bypass to see what happens.Or course if one of these are bad , you want to replace the switch.
Door switches and thief alarm are often shorted and drain batteries.
Starters have bad spots , could be a worn spot on harness no one is noticing .
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Jul 4, 2015 at 07:22 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 40
This would be one of the first things I'd look at .
