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Having a terrible time trying to get my 75 brakes bled. Read where I should be using this tool. Anyone here have any experience with this and is it necessary?
You remove the brake warning switch in the proportioning valve and screw this gizmo in. It keeps the valve centered while bleeding or so they say. Haven't tried it yet, but right now I can get nothing from the rear calipers.
I just did this on Sunday, I borrowed a Motive Brake Pressure Bleeder from a CF member. Never used it before. I do not enjoy working on brakes, esp bleeding. I hooked it all up. I did a fluid flush and bleed. It was pretty simple, besides the small mess I made. Pumped up the canister and cracked the bleed screws at each wheel and B fluid just poured out, along with any air bubbles and trash.
Pedal seems hard now, but no test drive just yet due to the rain, ice and now snow in 4 days. I was also concerned about the dist valve, but I got a solid fluid flow from all bleed screws including the 2 on each rear caliper. I recommend pressure bleeding.
You remove the brake warning switch in the proportioning valve and screw this gizmo in. It keeps the valve centered while bleeding or so they say. Haven't tried it yet, but right now I can get nothing from the rear calipers.
Just make sure the valve(dual piston) is centered over the hole that the warning switch came out of......the piston in mine was jammed-stuck in one end of the bore causing me to have front brakes only....I had to disassemble the internal parts/clean the gunk/re-install the piston in the centered position.....then I was able to bleed the brakes.
If the warning switch and dash warning light are working correctly, it will lite up when the piston moves off-center because of a brake fluid flow problem causing the piston to be forced to one end or the other in the metal body.
Last edited by doorgunner; Feb 25, 2015 at 12:54 PM.
I first tried gravity and only got a very weak and slow drip and could not get any pedal. Then tried with the pedal and had good pressure out the front, but little to none in the rear. Still no pedal, so I am going with plan 3. New proportioning valve and a new Motive pressure bleeder. Every other thing with no exception in the brake system is new.
Still would like to hear from anybody that has used the centering tool and what they thought of it. Thanks, Dave
Last edited by oledave60; Feb 25, 2015 at 01:53 PM.
Quote:
Still would like to hear from anybody that has used the centering tool and what they thought of it. Thanks, Dave
Dave I have used the tool. I kept having a problem with the brake warning light coming on not long after I bled the brakes. I figured the pressure on one side of the prop valve was not equal to the other. I put the tool in the prop valve and bled the brakes. The light has stayed off ever since. I wouldn't say that YOU need the tool unless you are having a problem with the valve centering after bleeding.
Bottom line = worth the $7 or $8 bucks that I spent for it.
I just did this on Sunday, I borrowed a Motive Brake Pressure Bleeder from a CF member. Never used it before. I do not enjoy working on brakes, esp bleeding. I hooked it all up. I did a fluid flush and bleed. It was pretty simple, besides the small mess I made. Pumped up the canister and cracked the bleed screws at each wheel and B fluid just poured out, along with any air bubbles and trash.
Pedal seems hard now, but no test drive just yet due to the rain, ice and now snow in 4 days. I was also concerned about the dist valve, but I got a solid fluid flow from all bleed screws including the 2 on each rear caliper. I recommend pressure bleeding.
generally if it won't gravity bleed its a hose problem. i use the T shirt method. put an old tee shirt under each caliper crack the bleeders and let it flow, shut off each one as it runs clear.do the inner rears first then the outers.
generally if it won't gravity bleed its a hose problem. i use the T shirt method. put an old tee shirt under each caliper crack the bleeders and let it flow, shut off each one as it runs clear.do the inner rears first then the outers.
I first tried gravity and only got a very weak and slow drip and could not get any pedal. Then tried with the pedal and had good pressure out the front, but little to none in the rear. Still no pedal, so I am going with plan 3. New proportioning valve and a new Motive pressure bleeder. Every other thing with no exception in the brake system is new.
Still would like to hear from anybody that has used the centering tool and what they thought of it. Thanks, Dave
From the Motive website: This does work very well.
"In 2011 we started to make the 1105 and 1115 out of cast aluminum. We received the following tip from users that work on their classic Corvettes. We like the tip so much we're passing it on to you. Use a c-clamp to hold the adpater in place. It works great and is much faster to use than the chains. Also if you are using the chains and jhooks with wing nuts feel free to use a set of pliers on the wingnuts if needed to obtaing a tight seal. We recommend bleeding pressures between 10-15psi for the 1105 and 1115."
Quote:
Still would like to hear from anybody that has used the centering tool and what they thought of it. Thanks, Dave
Dave I have used the tool. I kept having a problem with the brake warning light coming on not long after I bled the brakes. I figured the pressure on one side of the prop valve was not equal to the other. I put the tool in the prop valve and bled the brakes. The light has stayed off ever since. I wouldn't say that YOU need the tool unless you are having a problem with the valve centering after bleeding.
Bottom line = worth the $7 or $8 bucks that I spent for it.
I used a centering tool when I bleed my brakes after replacing the distribution/proportioning valve. My brake light stayed on due to the piston in the valve being stuck in the forward position because of crud in the system. I'll be honest, I don't if the centering tool was needed or not. I just wasn't taking any chances as I installed a new master cylinder, all new calipers, new distribution/proportioning valve, and flushed and bleed the system. After all that I removed the centering tool, replaced the brake light valve and everything has worked great since.