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Well its been a 7 month wait and dyno time is finally here. I have seen previous postings of folks asking for people to weigh in regarding estimated HP and TQ. I think this is useful because it provides all of us with real data for various engine combinations. It would be great if all these runs with supporting information could be combined in a single informational thread for all to use as a reference. I have the engine dyno scheduled for next week, then I plan on running it on a chassis dyno. I believe it is a DynoJet. That will likely not happen until June sometime. See my sig below regarding components.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Finally an engine built right, no girly boy little cams and heads that I have seen on here lately. You should make near 700HP probably for the first untuned and breakin dyno run you should make 675-685HP. With more tuning it should make over 700HP and be easy to drive on the street.
Finally an engine built right, no girly boy little cams and heads that I have seen on here lately. You should make near 700HP probably for the first untuned and breakin dyno run you should make 675-685HP. With more tuning it should make over 700HP and be easy to drive on the street.
Well done !
My initial goal with my 427 was to achieve 500 at the rear wheels. There was not a lot of info at the time regarding large displacement small blocks so I based my parts decisions on many runs on desk-top-dyno and info from the forum. I did achieve 450 rwhp and 485 rwtq with that combo. I thought I would try it again but not holding back this time. My goal was to achieve maximum naturally aspirated "streetable" power with a 434 small block. After this, the car is done!! There may be a new rear-end in my future... other than that I have no more plans for this car. Tony and the builder pretty much agreed on everything but the carb.....Tony wanted a Dominator and my Builder wanted to use a custom modified 4150 to make it more streetable. I decided to go with my builder's recommendation as he threatened to pull the plug on the project if I didn't. I respect both opinions but thought if i need help tuning the engine after installation, I will want help, not an "I told you so!!" from my builder (Turned out the carb may have been custom built but not for my engine....). I guess I will need to learn how to adjust lash on my rockers now and also how to identify a failing lifter before it destroys my engine. I did go with bushings instead of needle bearings on the lifters. Lots of controversy regarding that topic for sure.
The new Holley HP carbs are killer I would use 1000cfm.
I am not 100% sure of the size. we spoke of 950 but his opinion may have changed sense. I am now just waiting to hear from them. The only thing left to purchase for this project are the wheels. Still on the fence regarding staying with 15's or going with 17's. Better tires available for 17's.
Also was considering swapping to the carbon fiber lined blockers for my TKO 600 transmission. Supposed to fix shifting issues at higher RPMs. Looks like I could do it myself but tearing a transmission down scares me a little...
I am not 100% sure of the size. we spoke of 950 but his opinion may have changed sense. I am now just waiting to hear from them. The only thing left to purchase for this project are the wheels. Still on the fence regarding staying with 15's or going with 17's. Better tires available for 17's.
Also was considering swapping to the carbon fiber lined blockers for my TKO 600 transmission. Supposed to fix shifting issues at higher RPMs. Looks like I could do it myself but tearing a transmission down scares me a little...
HP1000 will drive much better around town then a Dominator....Unless you buy the new 3 circuit dominator and love to fiddle with carbs, then you can probably get it pretty decent... Its easily worth 20hp over an HP1000 on the dyno..
If you want any chance at all of hooking 700 crank HP with a stick trans, you need to stick with 15" wheels and run MT ET Street radial tires....
If you go to 17s, you can get a MT ET Street radial in a 295/45/17 and its a pretty decent tire as well, it won't hook like a 15" but its about as good as youre gonna get in a 17"..
Honestly, unless youre gonna be auto crossing or running big brakes, 15" offers a lot more tire selection for straight line performance....
For a waxer/parking lot warrior, 17s-19s are fine...
HP1000 will drive much better around town then a Dominator....Unless you buy the new 3 circuit dominator and love to fiddle with carbs, then you can probably get it pretty decent... Its easily worth 20hp over an HP1000 on the dyno..
If you want any chance at all of hooking 700 crank HP with a stick trans, you need to stick with 15" wheels and run MT ET Street radial tires....
If you go to 17s, you can get a MT ET Street radial in a 295/45/17 and its a pretty decent tire as well, it won't hook like a 15" but its about as good as youre gonna get in a 17"..
Honestly, unless youre gonna be auto crossing or running big brakes, 15" offers a lot more tire selection for straight line performance....
For a waxer/parking lot warrior, 17s-19s are fine...
Yes, I love the look of the 15' wheels as well. The tires I had on there were 275/60-15 rear and 235/60-15 on the front. 28" diameter rear that rubbed just a tad when ever I hit this one dip in the road near my house. Only time it ever rubs....
Finally an engine built right, no girly boy little cams and heads that I have seen on here lately. You should make near 700HP probably for the first untuned and breakin dyno run you should make 675-685HP. With more tuning it should make over 700HP and be easy to drive on the street.
Still waiting to hear from the builder, thought I would have heard something by now....I sent and email before lunch. If I don't hear back today I will go there tomorrow to see WTF is going on. I would think at some point in the process they would assign some level of priory to MY project which started back in August of 2014!. I have been patient but this is starting to get stupid.
HP1000 will drive much better around town then a Dominator....Unless you buy the new 3 circuit dominator and love to fiddle with carbs, then you can probably get it pretty decent... Its easily worth 20hp over an HP1000 on the dyno..
If you want any chance at all of hooking 700 crank HP with a stick trans, you need to stick with 15" wheels and run MT ET Street radial tires....
If you go to 17s, you can get a MT ET Street radial in a 295/45/17 and its a pretty decent tire as well, it won't hook like a 15" but its about as good as youre gonna get in a 17"..
Honestly, unless youre gonna be auto crossing or running big brakes, 15" offers a lot more tire selection for straight line performance....
For a waxer/parking lot warrior, 17s-19s are fine...
I am giving serious consideration to the Nitto NT-555's 17x8 255/50 R 17. The tire width is 10.43" and 27" in diameter for the rear. I have heard a lot of good things about the 555's. They carry a speed rating of W which translates to about 168mph plus have decent performance in dry and wet weather.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by KJL
Still waiting to hear from the builder, thought I would have heard something by now....I sent and email before lunch. If I don't hear back today I will go there tomorrow to see WTF is going on. I would think at some point in the process they would assign some level of priory to MY project which started back in August. I have been patient but this is starting to get stupid.
I am the same way, if there is something I can't do and have to take into a shop I drop it off and just wait, nothing worse than some dummy calling every day and dropping be every few days for a car builder.
That said there is a limit to how long I will wait and then go in and talk to him, the squeaky wheel gets the grease and sometimes you have to go that route.
I waited 6 months to get my Vette painted at Legendary Motor Cars and never called or dropped by once. There is another thing that can happen if you bother them is they can take that advantage to say "we had to do this that and it is going to cost a bit more" So my philosophy is to hammer out a final price, put it in writing that it won't be a nickel more and pay them when it is ready.
I am the same way, if there is something I can't do and have to take into a shop I drop it off and just wait, nothing worse than some dummy calling every day and dropping be every few days for a car builder.
That said there is a limit to how long I will wait and then go in and talk to him, the squeaky wheel gets the grease and sometimes you have to go that route.
I waited 6 months to get my Vette painted at Legendary Motor Cars and never called or dropped by once. There is another thing that can happen if you bother them is they can take that advantage to say "we had to do this that and it is going to cost a bit more" So my philosophy is to hammer out a final price, put it in writing that it won't be a nickel more and pay them when it is ready.
They just called! I am heading up there in about an hour!
I am was pleasantly surprised at how great the engine looked and all the extras that were done. The total even came in less than the original quote. It was worth the wait although frustrating at times.
The numbers:
I will need to plot the numbers to see the curve and I will scan and upload the data when I get a chance.