NEW GUY...courtesy switch question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 681
Likes: 31
From: Nebraska
NEW GUY...courtesy switch question
Hi! I have been lurking here for a couple months now, reading about all of the great cars you guys have. Finally joined. I have a 1979 L-48 with about 51,000 miles in pretty good shape.
Here's my question... The courtesy lamp switch on the left door is incorrect. The plunger is too short to reach the door, so my courtesy lights stay on. The problem I am having is that it has a 3-pin switch and everywhere I look says that the 3-pin didn't come around until 1984. So...I guess I would like to hear some thoughts on this one.
Nice to finally talk to you.
Here's my question... The courtesy lamp switch on the left door is incorrect. The plunger is too short to reach the door, so my courtesy lights stay on. The problem I am having is that it has a 3-pin switch and everywhere I look says that the 3-pin didn't come around until 1984. So...I guess I would like to hear some thoughts on this one.
Nice to finally talk to you.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
POST a photo of your switch and the wire attached to it. If my memory serves me correct......the wiring connector will have 3 round straight pins going into the switch which is CORRECT.
I will bet the switch has fatigued...and the center shaft can not move back...thus making it short due to the square staking has gone bad.
it should look like this....http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000036b
DUB
I will bet the switch has fatigued...and the center shaft can not move back...thus making it short due to the square staking has gone bad.
it should look like this....http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000036b
DUB
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 681
Likes: 31
From: Nebraska
POST a photo of your switch and the wire attached to it. If my memory serves me correct......the wiring connector will have 3 round straight pins going into the switch which is CORRECT.
I will bet the switch has fatigued...and the center shaft can not move back...thus making it short due to the square staking has gone bad.
it should look like this....http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000036b
DUB
I will bet the switch has fatigued...and the center shaft can not move back...thus making it short due to the square staking has gone bad.
it should look like this....http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000036b
DUB
It's nice to know that the connector is correct, who do I go to for another switch?
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 789
Likes: 129
From: Los Banos CA
But if it's 'stuck' in the plunged position, the lights shouldn't turn on at all - unless (as I think DUB stated), the switch is shorting to ground even while plunged (this switch is supposed to provide a ground connection when the plunger is all the way extended, such as when the door is open). I THINK that the wire for the lights is white, but don't quote me on that.
Do your lights turn off if you press in the switch with your finger?
When I replaced the switches in my 79, I just got replacements at a local auto parts store. I don't remember if my driver door switch had 3 terminals or not, but I think the extra terminal(s) is just for the alarm. In my case, the alarm was long gone, so I just wired up the switch for the lights. I seem to remember having to install a washer behind one of the switches also, so it would 'reach' the door.
Do your lights turn off if you press in the switch with your finger?
When I replaced the switches in my 79, I just got replacements at a local auto parts store. I don't remember if my driver door switch had 3 terminals or not, but I think the extra terminal(s) is just for the alarm. In my case, the alarm was long gone, so I just wired up the switch for the lights. I seem to remember having to install a washer behind one of the switches also, so it would 'reach' the door.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 681
Likes: 31
From: Nebraska
Thanks for the input.
I can turn the lights on and off with my finger. I did take it out and it looks like it is seating properly, I just think it's too short. I have tried 2 local parts stores and each one gave me a 2-pin switch. It seems strange to have this problem.
I can turn the lights on and off with my finger. I did take it out and it looks like it is seating properly, I just think it's too short. I have tried 2 local parts stores and each one gave me a 2-pin switch. It seems strange to have this problem.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I gave you a link to the switch....I need to see the switch OUT of the door jamb and hanging there.....and YES...a fairly decent photo also.
READ Post #3 says it all. I bet it is bad and the shaft is pushing inwards making the switch useless and needing to be replaced....THUS making it short. Like I previously wrote. This is a specific part and I bet you will not find it in a parts store.
DUB
READ Post #3 says it all. I bet it is bad and the shaft is pushing inwards making the switch useless and needing to be replaced....THUS making it short. Like I previously wrote. This is a specific part and I bet you will not find it in a parts store.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 86
From: Rotonda FL
There is a LOT of confusion out there about these switches. My early 77 (built Feb 1977, with VIR AC & 19 pin T-Top weather strip) has a stock 3 pin LH courtesy light switch. NONE of the suppliers list this for a 77, including the RIK'S reference DUB gave above.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
The 'key idea' is getting the part...regardless on how it is listed by any vendor.
Much like how the rear bumpier emblem for a 1976 is all by itself....but yet they sell the 77-79 rear emblem and group the 76 with it...which is WRONG.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
GLAD that you got it repaired.
It isnt that the one from "Rik's' is longer...it is the fact that the staked shaft was no longer holding the correct length needed...and sliding the main shaft of the switch inwards....thus making it shorter....thus making it not work correctly.
DUB
Cruising
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
need the male plug for mine
hey guys on my drivers side switch the male part that plugs into the switch is shot one of the 3 little prongs is broke out of it i need that part i cant find it anyplace anyone able to help please?
thanks dudes
johnm
ps this is on an 81 vette
thanks dudes
johnm
ps this is on an 81 vette
Last edited by JohnM1981; May 30, 2015 at 11:10 PM.