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I am rebuilding the power window assemblies in my 1973 Vette and had a question about the rivited on rollers. Do I just drill out the old?... Also the new rollers they rivet on as well, how do I go about riviting them? Is there a special tool or do I just put a block of wood under the new roller and beat the rivet end with a hammer? Let me know of better ways to do this if there is and soon becuse my parts are on the way!!!! Thanks,
Vetteberger
I am rebuilding the power window assemblies in my 1973 Vette and had a question about the rivited on rollers. Do I just drill out the old?... Also the new rollers they rivet on as well, how do I go about riviting them? Is there a special tool or do I just put a block of wood under the new roller and beat the rivet end with a hammer? Let me know of better ways to do this if there is and soon becuse my parts are on the way!!!! Thanks,
Vetteberger
I need to see the end of the roller that you actually stake and make it so it locks onto the window regulator.
You CAN NOT beat on the end of this new roller or you make it POINTLESS of doing this at all. YOU have to make sure you support the roller where the steel shaft is and NOT allow the plastic roller wheel gets damaged....so a small dowel that will go inside the roller will work.,...but as for the setting toll...I need to see the end of the roller.
There are three of these on each assembly and all riveted on, I was tinking of taking a punch to the backside to get the flare of this rivet. Also thankyou for the quick response and valuable information!
Last edited by vetteberger; Mar 8, 2015 at 07:12 PM.
Funny on our facebook page back in 2013 I did a what was it, what is used for now picture with this exact tool we made years ago for doing this job. It may help you understand the process for sure.
In the picture below you'll see the base for setting the rollers puts pressure on the stud in the middle, while the crimping tool rolls over the rivet side with one whack of the hammer.
Before you punch out your good original posts, I suggest you take a look at my thread here when I did the same thing. Very easy to do and no real specific tools needed.
I think almost all of the replacement posts are incorrect as far as height and you'll end up with this:
Before you punch out your good original posts, I suggest you take a look at my thread here when I did the same thing. Very easy to do and no real specific tools needed.
I think almost all of the replacement posts are incorrect as far as height and you'll end up with this:
SL
I APPLAUD you on you thinking and trying this idea out.
I would be curious to see if the new rollers fail prematurely due to the more rounded ball on the stud that they came with...is not like that on the original stud. The more rounded ball seems to give more integrity to the roller due to more seating surface. I may be 'over thinking' it. But that is part of my job in what I do.
I APPLAUD you on you thinking and trying this idea out.
I would be curious to see if the new rollers fail prematurely due to the more rounded ball on the stud that they came with...is not like that on the original stud. The more rounded ball seems to give more integrity to the roller due to more seating surface. I may be 'over thinking' it. But that is part of my job in what I do.
DUB
Dub-
I've known the rollers were on a different shaft for a long time but, I've never had this cause any issue when installing the regulator back in a car or as far as obtaining the correct glass adjustment. Have you?
I've known the rollers were on a different shaft for a long time but, I've never had this cause any issue when installing the regulator back in a car or as far as obtaining the correct glass adjustment. Have you?
Willcox
HONESTLY...as you know....it almost becomes a situation of a 'diminishing return'...in my opinion
MOST of all the power window regulators I have seen the gear is shot...along with the rollers...and the riveted on support bracket that like to break off at the bottom. SO...rebuilding the regulator is going to take me TIME...as you know...and if the parts and time is right at the cost of a new regulator....I put a new one in it....because I am not wasting my time on rebuilding a part and not getting paid for my time.
I HONESTLY can not see how the longer shaft roller can effect the window adjustment. I feel it will move the regulator and NOT the window....due to the FRONT ROLLER that is attached to the front of the door glass is CORRECT....and the roller on the rear track keeps the horizontal track that bolts to the glass correct also.
Seeing how I don't install rollers...I can not confirm or deny that there is a problem. But as you know...sometimes an 1/8" makes all the difference in something working correctly or not. The only issue I can see would be the machine screws sued to hold the door handle pulls....and if they are too long...and using the longer rollers on the regulator....you can run into a conflict like I have seen and experienced MANY times when people go out to a hardware store and put in long machine screws to hold the door handle pull and they get bent the first time the window goes down...and then it is MURDER trying to get them straight so I can get them out.
I replaced these rollers on my manual regulator, put them in the car and they work fine, i.e. goes up and down as it did before. There is so much slop and play in these mechanisms I don't see how the small difference could make be a problem. These are NOT precision devices.
Fair enough.. My shop has installed them recently and our rebuild of the power window regulators in the shop including replacing the gear is still cheaper than a new regulator... for now that is! It is getting to a point where that may not be the case soon.
One thing I can say.. stay as far away from the imported regulators (unless they have changed them recently)... the rollers are the wrong diameter.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Mar 11, 2015 at 09:10 PM.