This is absolutely correct!

 

As other's have said, I think you need to have a look at what tires you are using and control your right foot.

I'm running a 255/45/18 on my car and it is very drivable and it doesn't break loose at highway speeds.

But I believe it has a lot to do with the tire and the fact that they are UHP designed for traction and high speed. Old tire technology is just that "OLD".

JMHO

 

100%

Guys that build 600+ Gross HP engines for C3's and then run "old technology" pretty much crap 15 inch tires compared to the Ultra High/Max performance tires available in 17/18 inch rims, I think are nuts…You basically are taking your life in your hands if you lose control, right foot control or not, on the street. Trust me, when things go wrong, it will happen in a split second, and unless you are a truly gifted driver, chances are you will be along for the ride.

 

I would think that a 600 cfm would both add to the low end and choke the top end. My warmmed over l48 would spin the 255's and the 400" didn't have any issues, went to a softer 275 she hooks enough that I'm changing from 3.08's to 3.70's and from the airgap rpm to a single plane as I figure that the 3.7's are going to go back to less traction and the single plane should help curve that and add to the top end some.

 

 

I don't know if I would put the two of them in the same category….want to guess which one would win?

 

the price of sex is at least four times the price of sex! i can tell you personally once that car starts going sideways and you take the logical reaction and steer the opposite way it does not correct whats so ever and you tend to go off the road.i don`t know with pro`s do but i give them the utmost of respect for my it`s like a patch of ice.i rather break half shaft by hooking up then loose it into a tree and thats what i have now.this engine is insane power so my only choice is tire change within the 15" parameter so i can keep rally wheel or detune engine-------not! the 427-435hp would hit 3500rpm and start pulling hard this starts from 1500 and goes berserk.

 

Don't forget drive and half shaft loops as a precaution.

DO MA NEU!

 

You could also go for another rear end, this will reduce torque at the wheels siginificant.

 

previous to building this engine i try to give the 350 a push! so i remove rear gears and changed from 3.36 to 3.55 with the through of the 700R4 installation down the road. i have the 700R4 on bench and purchase most of the parts so i really don`t want to go backwards and try and find 3.08!!!this rear is all new parts and perfect i will leave well enough alone.

 

captain Bob, you should have a personal message in your box, don't know if you got it or not.

 

BTW. i have read something terrible ,that is when you install M/T drag radials they cannot withstand ambient temperature of 40 degrees F or lower like when stored in garage for winter they deteriorate. OOPS

 

I built a 406 stroker for mine also, I dont have the afr heads but the power it does make would spin the 15 tires that were on it with ease and be ridiculous in the rain. I picked up a set of knock off zo6 wheels with tires and the car hooks much better. Look at the Nitto 555r.

 

Your 700R4 is going to be even worse than the 400 at least as far as breaking traction goes in first gear. Put a block of wood under the gas pedal to stop you pushing it down so far lol. I would be adding the stronger BB parts to the half shafts as a precaution if you haven't done so already.

 

That's because you steer INTO the skid, NOT the opposite of it!

 

Even when it's in the 20s outside I've never seen my garage temps drop below the high 50s. Your garage may not be as cold as you think, at least hopefully that's the case. By the way, if I was in your situation there's no way I'd de-tune that engine or change gearing. Try drag radials first. I think you'll find that the car is manageable that way. The solid Spicer U joints, and upgraded driveshaft/half shafts would be a good idea- if you haven't already taken care of that. As bluedawg said, safety loops for the shafts is another good idea.

 

I wonder if there's truth to that, if so i wouldn't buy a set as I've drove my vette at -15*f.

DO MA NEU!

 

replace tires every year! they lose grip as they age. (check sidewall date)
fix sloppy rear suspension
fix hard shifting trans!
enjoy!

 

Jeeze....just go buy some tires already. No more talk of detuning, gear swaps, trans swaps etc etc.. That's just BS.

Go buy you some Nitto 555R tires, 275/60/15, put them on and enjoy it. Will it still spin the tires? Yes... From a dead stop or real slow roll but it's controllable. Make sure your emergency brake cable bracket on the trailing arm is relocated to the top if the arm so you can clear the 275s. These are OK for rain driving but not great... And they roll a bit in hard turns but it's liveable.

If you want better traction and no messing with the e brake bracket, get the MT ET Street radials, 255/60/15. They fit great and hook plenty well. I can dead hook from a 20 mph roll in 1st with them at 17 psi on a warm day, that's with 650lbs tq..-- however, these tires suck for handling and suck in the rain...keep that in mind.


I drive on the 275 Nittos for daily use and have a set of the 255 ET street radials for drag/street racing.

Yes all soft compound drag radials suck in the cold, they don't hook when it's cold so drive easy on them when it's cold..

Although I have yanked the wheels on a prepped track in 38* temps on the ET Streets.

The older tires get, the less they grip, regardless of outside temp. I replace drag radials every 2 years. Keep em fresh and sticky.