REELAV8R

My power steering control valve has sprung a leak so looking to rebuild it.

Paragon has this kit that include ball stud, caps and shuttle valve items.
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...build-kit.aspx

56$ for all the stuff needed.

Zip has this kit with mostly seals.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalog/...category/7550/
$22.95

So question is, do I need the new ball stud, caps and shuttle valve and other bits necessarily or will that have to be determined upon dissassembly?

With it leaking I know I need the seals at least. Not sure how much wear the other items experience in normal use. And if putting in new parts on an old housing is going to be an effective fix for worn components.
Anyone who has not replaced the caps and shuttle valve etc. experience problems from not doing so?

Are there better kits out there?

wombvette

NAPA and other auto parts stores have the seals for the valve for $10-$15. Just what you need to stop the leak, not the complete rebuild.

Jim Shea

How many miles (or how many miles do you think) on your Vette. (i.e. 40,000, 140,000, 240,000 miles). Did your Vette live a pampered life or do you suspect severe useage by its previous owner(s). If you think that you may be in the higher figures (or severe useage), I would say that a complete rebuild with a new ball stud, etc might not hurt.

You have to remember that when we designed and manufactured components for the C2/C3 steering systems, we never considered possible 50+ year life spans.

Jim

REELAV8R

Thanks wombvette, probably the direction I will go if I just need the seals.

72,000 miles at this point. Definitely not 172,000 miles.

REELAV8R

Well, time marches on and so does the obsolescence of car parts.

Local parts stores only have steering rebuild kits for special order with fewer components and more $ than buying on line by a long shot.

hugie82

There's a video floating around on how to do it (Wilcox...maybe???)but it's not that easy. Someone who has done rebuilds on many different parts should be able to handle it. I believe if you're already into it and you have it on the bench, rebuild the entire until. Ball, stud, seals and lines while you're in there IMHO

7T1vette

If car was maintained well in the past, you may not need the ball stud, etc. But, if it wasn't...or if you don't know...buy the stud and do it right while you have it out. A few bucks difference is pretty small when it comes to having a good steering system.

commander_47

First of all, I want to thank Jim Shea for all that he has posted on here. I found the papers on the steering column invaluable.

I have to say that I have had absolutely horrible experience with purchased valves, professionally rebuilt valves, and my own rebuilt valves following instructions to the letter.......several times.

I bought this one new rebuilt from one of our noted vendors:


Two weeks after installing it, this is what I woke up to:



The new valve was leaking like a sieve. I was able to exchange it, and about two weeks later was faced with the same puddle of fluid:



This time I took the valve apart, and this is what I found:



I got a kit from Auto Zone, and put it together. As before, it worked fine for about three weeks, then, the dreaded puddle of fluid. I took it apart again, and found this:



A true punishment patriot, I again went to Auto Zone. I brought the blown o ring and they gave me a new kit:

You guessed it, about three days this time and the puddle of fluid was back. Fed up, and sick of lousy steering, I went and ordered one of these from Mud Flaps and have never looked back.



I also got one immediately for my 79. There is just no substitute in bang for the buck with a Borgeson box. Steering is greatly improved, and my garage floor is now spotless!!!

Sayfoo

I just bought a seal kit today from OR's.
I too, did not have very good luck with rebuilt units, so I bought a brand new one.
Well, it lasted a few years and has recently started leaking. I looked at numerous rebuild kits and the pictures all look alike even though they were different brands and different prices. Even the printing on the plastic bag looked the same. So I went with the locally available one (also the cheapest) from OR's. The box says made in usa. I'll start on it tomorrow.
I wonder if these units have the same problems as the master cylinders have had with cheap Chinese rubber seals?
Could be why so many have failed in the last 5-7 yrs.
I also rented a tie rod puller that popped off the ball stud from the pitman arm in about 5 minutes. There is another thread here that talks about this also. There is a HF tool that runs about $20 that has good reviews.

REELAV8R

Sounds like I may be in for dissapointment regardless of what kit I buy.

Could be you are right sayfoo, cheap rubber. Kind of like the accelerator pumps in the Q-jet. A real problem with ethanol for most rubber.

What kind of power steering fluid you guys using?

commander_47 are you using ATF, the fluid looked red.

wombvette

I have built hundreds of these things. If they are assembled correctly, they will last a good while. Getting the seal in correctly and straight so its not pinched is not easy, so take care with the assembly.

REELAV8R

Thanks. Much more encouraging.

hamck

My valve doesn't leak but the ball socket has some slop in it. After reading this I'm afraid to mess with it.

commander_47

I am not using any special fluid. Just GM power steering fluid.

Sayfoo

There are a couple of video's out there that will help you if you decide to rebuild. 80% of the labor is r&r'ing the valve. the rebuild is fairly easy. The last part where you bolt the 2 halves together and making sure that the cup seal is straight is the whole ball of wax.
I finished mine and took a 40 mile ride. It's not leaking (yet).

REELAV8R

I've watched the video's that I have found, it all looks pretty straight forward.
So far I have taken it off the car cleaned it up and disassembled. Found where each of the 3 seals were that there was a rust ring where maybe the seal had sat for a long period during vehicle storage or something. Couldn't feel pitting but could see the ring. So I buffed those areas and got the ring buffed out. Got the housing cleaned and painted, now waiting on parts to arrive.
The ball stud shows some wear and a little pitting but I would say it is perfectly serviceable. I did decide to get the kit with the new ball stud so that will be replaced anyhow.
The power steering cylinder is what I may have to replace. There is a small partial ring around the chrome rod that is missing the chrome. It's smooth and the seal can slide over the area easily, but it may leak after I put the rebuild kit on it. Just have wait and see.
The ball stud has some pitting also and what appears to be a crack? So might need a new ball stud for that. I'll wait to see if the cylinder leaks around the missing chrome or not to get a new one of those.
If it leaks then a new cylinder will have to go on.

72LS1Vette

When the engine is off you will see play in the ball socket. Pressure from the PS pump will tighten up the valve.

To the O.P. - the control valve has a 'dry' and 'wet' side as you have probably figured out. You won't know if you need a new ball stud and components on the dry side until you take the valve apart. I don't think you will find those parts at the local parts store. You could order a dry side kit from a vendor and return it if it turns out that you don't need it.

I rebuilt my original control valve twice. The first time I mangled a seal during assembly so take care when working the seals into the housing. I didn't have any problems with the valve after that but I also had a worn steering box so I eventually replaced everything with a Borgeson conversion. Very happy with the result.



Rick B.

0Willcox Corvette

Here is a video we did on the rebuild, it may possibly help you.

Willcox.

REELAV8R

An excellent video, as are all your videos, Wilcox.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate that you take the time to illustrate repair/assembly of various items on the corvette. It's a great help to those who have not had to repair that item before.

riverracer au

i have rebuilt 2 of them, mine and a mates from my club
downloaded the "Power Steering Valve instructions" from http://www.cssbinc.com/howto.aspx
as i pulled it apart, i laid it out and took my own photos,



bought the large complete kit thru Willcox, couple of different kits are available.
de-greased and painted body, then reassembled.
just pay attention to the lip seal direction when it goes back on.
no leaks on either of them for over 2yrs