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I have a local guy who races and has a engine for sale I can pick up but needs some work. It is what I have been looking for and is local bearing in mind it really is just a short block.
So it spun a rod bearing and is at the machine shop torn down and I have done an inspection. It does have pan, oil pump, timing chains Ect with it but no cam or heads.
First the machine shop guy says you can't machine the crank because a scat forged crank can't be turned? Sounds strange to me but the crank is a 4-350-4000-6000r
The block is a 4.125 SHP tanked plugged and ready to go back together no damage. It is still at 4.125 bore.
Callie's ultra 6.125 sj rods all look fine.
JE forged 213109 Pistons, look like 18 degree -2.5 cc domed Pistons.
I guess since this is going to be a pump gas motor any head options for those Pistons or am I looking at replacement and do I need to go oversize and hone to fit?
If I can find a head does it have to be 18 or should I go back to 23 ?
I suspect new pistons, hone and balance?
Anyhow opinions welcome.
The price is nice as well.
I have a local guy who races and has a engine for sale I can pick up but needs some work. It is what I have been looking for and is local bearing in mind it really is just a short block.
So it spun a rod bearing and is at the machine shop torn down and I have done an inspection. It does have pan, oil pump, timing chains Ect with it but no cam or heads.
First the machine shop guy says you can't machine the crank because a scat forged crank can't be turned? Sounds strange to me but the crank is a 4-350-4000-6000r
The block is a 4.125 SHP tanked plugged and ready to go back together no damage. It is still at 4.125 bore.
Callie's ultra 6.125 sj rods all look fine.
JE forged 213109 Pistons, look like 18 degree -2.5 cc domed Pistons.
I guess since this is going to be a pump gas motor any head options for those Pistons or am I looking at replacement and do I need to go oversize and hone to fit?
If I can find a head does it have to be 18 or should I go back to 23 ?
I suspect new pistons, hone and balance?
Anyhow opinions welcome.
The price is nice as well.
Mat
Matt,
No deal here unless you got 1 fat wallet. Crank can be turned not a problem. the problem is a 6.125 rod and 4" stroke. That puts it at a .900CH and that does not work. Shortest CH is 1.00 using a 6" rod. A 1CH will lead to accelerated piston wear.
Your limited to an 18 degree head with those pistons. This puts you in expensive valvetrain cost except for the Brodix 18X head but they are still $2000 for heads plus other parts.
I was curious about the rods but now if you could educate me.
How was he running this motor with the short compression height?
If those rod were in this engine and it is a std deck SBC then they could have stacked head gaskets to build deck height. Kaase stacked .300" of head gaskets 1 year to win the Engine Masters.
If those rod were in this engine and it is a std deck SBC then they could have stacked head gaskets to build deck height. Kaase stacked .300" of head gaskets 1 year to win the Engine Masters.
Winning Engine Masters is one thing, did John park his dyno motor over the winter and drive it the following spring? Did he drive it for 30,000 miles? I sometime wonder how long you have been building high performance motors. Its one thing to win on a dyno quite another to win a endurance race.....stack head gaskets and expect them not to have problems after many hours and multiple heat cycling......wouldn't do that with any of my long term builds, maybe a drag car but, not anything going road racing or participation in something like Hot Rod's Drag Week contest
If those rod were in this engine and it is a std deck SBC then they could have stacked head gaskets to build deck height. Kaase stacked .300" of head gaskets 1 year to win the Engine Masters.
" General" Lee Edwards did that back in the 70's in Mountain Motor Pro- Stock Because Tall Deck blocks carried a 100 pound weight penalty . definitely not an endurance application.
Winning Engine Masters is one thing, did John park his dyno motor over the winter and drive it the following spring? Did he drive it for 30,000 miles? I sometime wonder how long you have been building high performance motors. Its one thing to win on a dyno quite another to win a endurance race.....stack head gaskets and expect them not to have problems after many hours and multiple heat cycling......wouldn't do that with any of my long term builds, maybe a drag car but, not anything going road racing or participation in something like Hot Rod's Drag Week contest
You have misunderstood what I have typed. This combo, if it all was together, is an "ABORTION". He needs to run from it as it doesn't ad up....9.00 Deck, 4" stroke, 6.125 rods. I can't find a .875" CH piston and SHP blocks only come in 9.025" deck. That piston number is for a 3.875" Stroke crank with a 6" rod. "If" this combination of parts ran then it had at lease a .120" thick head gasket, which Cometic makes...actually it makes a .120" and .140".
So as far as engine building is concerned...out of the box thinking or "we got this pile of parts laying around lets put something together and make it work".....1 of the 2 methods of thought were used to put this thing together. IMO to the OP if he is wanting a good solid platform for your suggested 30K miles then the only thing I see worth anything in this build is the SHP block.
EMC example is engine builders can do some "abnormal" stuff to make things work. The only way this engine ever ran was with some "abnormal" thinking. You don't win following the herd.