power brake booster
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 5
From: illinois
power brake booster
I have a 71 vette with power brakes.I remove the existing booster (1.5 hrs), thanks to forum members info. Would have finished sooner but 3/8" locknuts are hard to remove. Anyway, I purchased a booster Paragon(#12766) that came with M10 nuts. My question is, has anyone not had any trouble mounting with metric nuts? It was hard enough using a 9/16" deep socket to remove the old. I'm not sure how a M10 deep socket will fit within such a tight space(left upper nut)to work in? Also, the new booster has a reccessed mounting area for the master cylinder plus to different lengths rods. the existing booster m/c mounting surface is not reccessed and the rod is different. hopeful, I'll be able to use new booster without any trouble. Will have to use a thin wall M10 deep socket? not bad to lay on my back, but next morning is a real pain in the back, arms, neck, etc..........
thanks
Mike
thanks
Mike
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
No troubles...and I have done countless boosters.
Honestly.....I would have the original rebuilt and painted...because as you have noticed....the boosters look different....and if your oil dip stick is still on the driver side...the new style booster will effect on how easy it is to get to it and use it...and the oil dipstick tube may need to be rotated or bent.
I use a swivel socket...where the socket and the universal swivel are made together.
ALSO...If you plan on keeping this newer design booster...you might want to test fit your master cylinder and make sure it is not hard as heck to get to slide onto the two studs.
DUB
Honestly.....I would have the original rebuilt and painted...because as you have noticed....the boosters look different....and if your oil dip stick is still on the driver side...the new style booster will effect on how easy it is to get to it and use it...and the oil dipstick tube may need to be rotated or bent.
I use a swivel socket...where the socket and the universal swivel are made together.
ALSO...If you plan on keeping this newer design booster...you might want to test fit your master cylinder and make sure it is not hard as heck to get to slide onto the two studs.
DUB
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
I had one of those aftermarket units as well. Mine had the deformed nut locknuts.
It had longer studs to begin with and the deformed nuts were a real pain, because they were hard to turn the whole length. I used regular nuts that I could run up with my fingers and locktite. Run the nuts on before you install the unit to make sure that you can do it with your fingers. It was still tight when it went out a few years later, and was a lot easier to remove. You could also cut a little off the studs if they are longer than original.
I now have a rebuilt original unit.
It had longer studs to begin with and the deformed nuts were a real pain, because they were hard to turn the whole length. I used regular nuts that I could run up with my fingers and locktite. Run the nuts on before you install the unit to make sure that you can do it with your fingers. It was still tight when it went out a few years later, and was a lot easier to remove. You could also cut a little off the studs if they are longer than original.
I now have a rebuilt original unit.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 5
From: illinois
brake booster
thanks for all the info. My existing m/c was leaking into the booster. Thats the reason for a new booster, if I had known that boosters could be rebuilt I would have done so. I did use the 18" socket extension and taped swivel method. But as said deformed locknuts are hard to remove. anyway I'll be looking for M10 nuts with small hex head. will use locktite.
I did have to ream the new m/c mounting holes to accept the M10 studs.
to think all this started by the parking brake not working properly. I now have rebuild calipers, new rotors, lines, m/c and booster Oh, and new parking brake shoes and cables. would you think???????????
thanks again for info. May 1 is my on the road date.
Mike
I did have to ream the new m/c mounting holes to accept the M10 studs.
to think all this started by the parking brake not working properly. I now have rebuild calipers, new rotors, lines, m/c and booster Oh, and new parking brake shoes and cables. would you think???????????
thanks again for info. May 1 is my on the road date.
Mike
Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 586
Likes: 10
From: Alexandria VA
I have a 71 vette with power brakes.I remove the existing booster (1.5 hrs), thanks to forum members info. Would have finished sooner but 3/8" locknuts are hard to remove. Anyway, I purchased a booster Paragon(#12766) that came with M10 nuts. My question is, has anyone not had any trouble mounting with metric nuts? It was hard enough using a 9/16" deep socket to remove the old. I'm not sure how a M10 deep socket will fit within such a tight space(left upper nut)to work in? Also, the new booster has a reccessed mounting area for the master cylinder plus to different lengths rods. the existing booster m/c mounting surface is not reccessed and the rod is different. hopeful, I'll be able to use new booster without any trouble. Will have to use a thin wall M10 deep socket? not bad to lay on my back, but next morning is a real pain in the back, arms, neck, etc..........
thanks
Mike
thanks
Mike
Another issue I had was the Willwood MC would not mate up with the Paragon BB...not even close so I went with the Cardone it bolted right on with some adjustments to the rod.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 586
Likes: 10
From: Alexandria VA
thanks for all the info. My existing m/c was leaking into the booster. Thats the reason for a new booster, if I had known that boosters could be rebuilt I would have done so. I did use the 18" socket extension and taped swivel method. But as said deformed locknuts are hard to remove. anyway I'll be looking for M10 nuts with small hex head. will use locktite.
I did have to ream the new m/c mounting holes to accept the M10 studs.
to think all this started by the parking brake not working properly. I now have rebuild calipers, new rotors, lines, m/c and booster Oh, and new parking brake shoes and cables. would you think???????????
thanks again for info. May 1 is my on the road date.
Mike
I did have to ream the new m/c mounting holes to accept the M10 studs.
to think all this started by the parking brake not working properly. I now have rebuild calipers, new rotors, lines, m/c and booster Oh, and new parking brake shoes and cables. would you think???????????
thanks again for info. May 1 is my on the road date.
Mike
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