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If it's the 74 listed in your profile, it should have a circuit breaker and a relay that prevents it from operating without the key on. The circuit breaker should reset automatically after a few seconds. The relay is fed by a wire from the fuse box (but not fused) so the wire could be off the connector at the fuse box if your foot maybe got into it, or the most likely fix is the relay. I'm not sure where it is located on the 74, if someone doesn't come in and tell you, I'd start following the wiring from the switches till I found it. They aren't very expensive if you can find where it's located on the car. To test it, you can bypass the relay, but be aware that the windows will go up and down with the key off.
I agree with the above, first thing, make sure the pink/black wire is plugged into the IGN cavity of the fuse box.
The circuit breaker is under the hood attached to the left side fire wall. It should have 12 volts on both sides with key on or off.
The relay is under the shifter console.
30 amp fuse in the fuse block, it's steady 12 volts controlled by a not needed relay inline to the switches, which is ignition sw controlled to close main contacts.....maybe the relay is bad, known to happen.....
I have a similar problem with my 75 my driver window went down and stayed there, I swapped the L&R switched same
when I press the switches up & down the lights dim so the power seems to pull from the relay but noting I sprayed the crap out of everything in that door with WD40 and even smacked the window motor with hammer to attempt to dislodge it, nothing my next move is to order rebuild Driver power window motor
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Originally Posted by Sniper4x4
I have a similar problem with my 75 my driver window went down and stayed there, I swapped the L&R switched same
when I press the switches up & down the lights dim so the power seems to pull from the relay but noting I sprayed the crap out of everything in that door with WD40 and even smacked the window motor with hammer to attempt to dislodge it, nothing my next move is to order rebuild Driver power window motor
You should start your own post!
If your 'lights dim' then the motor is getting power and something is causing the regulator to bind and not move.
Unless you kept the switch on for a long time the motor is good and you should see why the regulator is stuck.
I know my three year old twins are the culprit. The switched seen fine, what do U think the problem is? It must be a connection issue??????
Sam and Sallie must be restricted.....
I had a problem with my drivers window. First the regulator broke when the tab attaching it to the door snapped off. Apparently you can buy the just the tab with a bolt to repair it. I chose to replace the complete regulator.
After replacing the regulator the window would still not roll up. I replaced the drivers door window motor, and it still didn't fix the problem.
In the end it proved to be the drivers window switch. The regulator did need replacing, but now I have a spare drivers side power window motor. It's ok because if the motor goes then I know I have a replacement.
With cars that are close to 40 years old or older you are just waiting for particular items to stop working. The more the item is used the more likely it will fail.