Dual electric 11" fan question
04-18-2015, 08:16 PM
#41
Le Mans Master
Coming back to this : I ran the engine up to temp. As I said I run a 195°F thermostat.
Before I knock myself in the head for installing the fans : I see the engine cycling between 195 and 205°F. The fans kick in and seem to drop the temps but not really fast and it seems to stay around 198°F.
Temp sensor is in the head.
Is this a sign the fans are not strong/big enough ?
Before I knock myself in the head for installing the fans : I see the engine cycling between 195 and 205°F. The fans kick in and seem to drop the temps but not really fast and it seems to stay around 198°F.
Temp sensor is in the head.
Is this a sign the fans are not strong/big enough ?
If you want it cooler put in a 180* thermostat.
As outside air temps rise the temp difference between your thermostat and the temp it will hold will increase. What temp it stops rising at will indicate how effecient the system as a whole is. Many influences besides the power of the fans can affect the ultimate temp it will see. The fans are just part of that equation.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 04-18-2015 at 08:28 PM.
04-19-2015, 12:53 AM
#42
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
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I am changing to dual fans
I am digging your wiring schem, I can see lots of reasons this way is better than one fan coming on full then the other coming on full but can you tell me how to wire in my idiot lights so I can know if it's on off, low or high, and what's better to use led or standard bulbs?
Another question,
On my temp sensors/switches, you have them closing a ground,
Low stays closed ( green 86 ) when high closes curcuit? ( blue 86 ) ?
Many thanks!
Last edited by The13Bats; 04-19-2015 at 12:59 AM. Reason: worded off
04-19-2015, 12:54 AM
#43
I traded my 99 GMC Suburban for my current 75 Corvette
Here is another option, in the suburban I had added a Flex-a-lite dual electric fan setup with Variable Speed Controller, it worked real good it would even kick on the fans once I turned on A/C
I believe you can order the variable Speed controller separately
https://www.flex-a-lite.com/pdf_inst.../290-99790.pdf
I'm planning to upgrade to dual electric fans, just it further down on my wish list
Here is another option, in the suburban I had added a Flex-a-lite dual electric fan setup with Variable Speed Controller, it worked real good it would even kick on the fans once I turned on A/C
I believe you can order the variable Speed controller separately
https://www.flex-a-lite.com/pdf_inst.../290-99790.pdf
I'm planning to upgrade to dual electric fans, just it further down on my wish list
04-19-2015, 05:10 PM
#44
Race Director
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Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
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I traded my 99 GMC Suburban for my current 75 Corvette
Here is another option, in the suburban I had added a Flex-a-lite dual electric fan setup with Variable Speed Controller, it worked real good it would even kick on the fans once I turned on A/C
I believe you can order the variable Speed controller separately
https://www.flex-a-lite.com/pdf_inst.../290-99790.pdf
I'm planning to upgrade to dual electric fans, just it further down on my wish list
Here is another option, in the suburban I had added a Flex-a-lite dual electric fan setup with Variable Speed Controller, it worked real good it would even kick on the fans once I turned on A/C
I believe you can order the variable Speed controller separately
https://www.flex-a-lite.com/pdf_inst.../290-99790.pdf
I'm planning to upgrade to dual electric fans, just it further down on my wish list
It appears from the PDF you posted it is still a two stage idea do they make one that isn't staged but is a smooth curve of adding more and more fall until 100% on?
04-19-2015, 08:11 PM
#45
Racer
can you tell me how to wire in my idiot lights so I can know if it's on off, low or high, and what's better to use led or standard bulbs?
Another question,
On my temp sensors/switches, you have them closing a ground,
Low stays closed ( green 86 ) when high closes curcuit? ( blue 86 ) ?
Many thanks!
Another question,
On my temp sensors/switches, you have them closing a ground,
Low stays closed ( green 86 ) when high closes curcuit? ( blue 86 ) ?
Many thanks!
Sorry, I didn't see your response in this thread. For the idiot lights, you could run an LED that grounds through the temperature switch, one for the green wire and one for the blue wire.
The temperature switch that I used (I think it's from a VW Golf) keeps low closed (green) when high closes. That means that you will have no LEDs on for off, one on for low and both on for high.
Cheers,
Matt
04-19-2015, 08:42 PM
#46
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Hey Bats,
Sorry, I didn't see your response in this thread. For the idiot lights, you could run an LED that grounds through the temperature switch, one for the green wire and one for the blue wire.
The temperature switch that I used (I think it's from a VW Golf) keeps low closed (green) when high closes. That means that you will have no LEDs on for off, one on for low and both on for high.
Cheers,
Matt
Sorry, I didn't see your response in this thread. For the idiot lights, you could run an LED that grounds through the temperature switch, one for the green wire and one for the blue wire.
The temperature switch that I used (I think it's from a VW Golf) keeps low closed (green) when high closes. That means that you will have no LEDs on for off, one on for low and both on for high.
Cheers,
Matt
So would you have a guess how many volts get to the fans in series as parallal would be full volts.
04-19-2015, 08:51 PM
#47
Racer
6 volts per fan in series, 12 volts per fan in parallel.
04-19-2015, 10:52 PM
#48
Melting Slicks
If you want to see how GM runs fans in series/parallel w 3 relays...
Go to www.shbox.com and look up wiring diagram for a 96 Camaro. Works great, low speed saves amps and lets fans last a lot longer!
Go to www.shbox.com and look up wiring diagram for a 96 Camaro. Works great, low speed saves amps and lets fans last a lot longer!
04-19-2015, 11:58 PM
#49
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If you want to see how GM runs fans in series/parallel w 3 relays...
Go to www.shbox.com and look up wiring diagram for a 96 Camaro. Works great, low speed saves amps and lets fans last a lot longer!
Go to www.shbox.com and look up wiring diagram for a 96 Camaro. Works great, low speed saves amps and lets fans last a lot longer!
04-20-2015, 12:42 AM
#50
A couple of thoughts from my side to this : since I use efi, I can have the ecu control the relays in the sense that I could switch the series fan on say at 180°F and have them run parallel at 200°F. Will need 2 adc outputs for that though. Temperature settings can be changed all the time with just connecting up a laptop and putting in a number.
Personally I have an iox board that will let me even control my oil cooler fan and accusump by the ecu.
I'm not convinced that the way the radiator shroud is angled would help much with air cooling engine parts. The air would be directly mostly at the bottom and below the engine.
In this respect the factory shroud is better. I do not think that it was designed like that for that reason however.
Personally I have an iox board that will let me even control my oil cooler fan and accusump by the ecu.
I'm not convinced that the way the radiator shroud is angled would help much with air cooling engine parts. The air would be directly mostly at the bottom and below the engine.
In this respect the factory shroud is better. I do not think that it was designed like that for that reason however.
Last edited by Patro46; 04-20-2015 at 12:44 AM.
04-20-2015, 03:51 PM
#51
Team Owner
Mentioned in this thread was the older capillary temp switch setup....
years ago, I got hold of an oven temp switch off a household range....
wired it up and tweeked the calibration screw that was paint stained....so to cut on/off when needed....
'70 Lemans/GTO convertible, as I recall, worked like a charm....OH, put the temp sensor in the rad hose, under the clamp at the rad...and sealed it with RTV Black from parts house Permatex.....
years ago, I got hold of an oven temp switch off a household range....
wired it up and tweeked the calibration screw that was paint stained....so to cut on/off when needed....
'70 Lemans/GTO convertible, as I recall, worked like a charm....OH, put the temp sensor in the rad hose, under the clamp at the rad...and sealed it with RTV Black from parts house Permatex.....