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Ya know, if you want to keep that original alternator, I would consider buying one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-HD-REPAIR-KIT-For-CHEVY-OLDSMOBILE-PONTIAC-BUICK-GM-10SI-THREE-3-WIRE-/271572344223?fits=Year%3A1973%7CModel%3ACorvette&hash=item3f3af91d9f&vxp=mtr
I wouldn't care what fricken Autozone says on their test bench; if you run a new correct-sized wire from that mounted alternator back to the good battery and it heats up like you're sayin', that alternator's got a problem.
Did you check the charge wire for a short to ground? Disconnect it at both ends, put the VOM on Ohms and check for continuity to the frame, it should read completely open.
I wouldn't care what fricken Autozone says on their test bench; if you run a new correct-sized wire from that mounted alternator back to the good battery and it heats up like you're sayin', that alternator's got a problem.
Steve
I'd agree except now everything is working well and no hot wires. I suspected a short. I had R&R ed the alarm switch on the drivers door before this all happened. I went back and removed both alarm switches on the LH door lock, I unplugged and plugged every wire on the alarm relays and alarm flasher (makes the horn pulse). I checked the LH door for any pinched wires. I then pulled every fuss one at a time. I made sure the ALT was grounded and checked all of the wires to the starter. When I was done I started the car and no hot wire. So somewhere along the line something was corrected. I just don't know what. Normally i would check one thing at a time but I got so frustrated i just checked everything I could think of at one time. I wish I could tell you what the problem was but it's fixed and I'm a happy guy.
BTW - I have the original ALT off the car. I might get the kit you mentioned so that I have the original if any future buyer wants it. Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. Very much appreciated