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Started the car up yesterday and smelled something burning. Located this wire in the battery box (see photo). As you can see it melted out of the junction block. I know the wire goes to the alternator. When connected to the wire from the battery (and the car is running) the alternator wire gets very hot. But the Battery gauge show 14 Volts as usual. The wire at the Alternator isn't getting hot and the positive cable at the battery doesn't seem hot (although it is a larger wire and I don't want to leave the car running too long to see if it eventually would heat up). I've tried to visually inspect the wire to see if it is shorting on the frame but it runs through the frame rail and is difficult to see. Any suggestions?
It looks like that set up is not stock. Look at the AIM drawing. Note the junction block assy and the battery charging wire. That's the set up I have on my car.
Nope..not stock not even done well, the aim will not really cover it being po added, trace the burnt wires see what they go to find what is shorting it out,
When I upgraded the alt wire I didn't run mine from alt to battery but rather from alt to junction on start then from starter to battery...
Something shorted pretty good to melt like that.
Nope..not stock not even done well, the aim will not really cover it being po added, trace the burnt wires see what they go to find what is shorting it out,
When I upgraded the alt wire I didn't run mine from alt to battery but rather from alt to junction on start then from starter to battery...
Something shorted pretty good to melt like that.
Hey Bats, I appreciate the input but believe me the setup I have is identical to the AIM picture. I ordered a new junction block for an 80 Vette and it exactly like the burnt one. I know where the burnt wire goes, it goes to the alternator through a grommet (as pictured in the AIM) through the frame rail (as pictured in the AIM). I checked the continuity from the burnt end to the alternator end and it is the same wire and still carrying current. I even ran a jumper wire from the alternator to the battery and it got hot as well (disconnected the original wire). So there is no short in the wire in the frame.The only thing I can surmise is that the alternator is putting too much juice back into the battery as the wire is getting hot. But, I'm still getting 14 volts on the amp meter and at the battery.
Rookie questions: Have you added electric fans/amplifiers/etc.
(My alternator-to-battery wire started overheating when I added electric fans and upgraded to a 130 amp alternator......I had to use a heavier gage charging wire to the battery)
Okay, I had two 81's and recall the junction box that wire is bolted to ( pink arrow ), I forgot it when I was just looking at melted wires...
My issue is that wire had a big melt down either from a short or over loading...so if there are no shorts between it and the alt then something must be up with the alt....
But if it was resistance then that is why it melted where it did...could have been a bit loose.
Rookie questions: Have you added electric fans/amplifiers/etc.
(My alternator-to-battery wire started overheating when I added electric fans and upgraded to a 130 amp alternator......I had to use a heavier gage charging wire to the battery)
Doorgunner, no nothing added everything stock. The alternator is OEM rated, less than six months old. I'm wondering if the alternator has malfunctioned and is sending too much juice back up the wire to the battery. I can't figure out why, if there is a short somewhere, the alternator isn't burning up or putting out more than 14 volts. Also, why haven't any fuses blown. Thanks for your input.
Okay, I had two 81's and recall the junction box that wire is bolted to ( pink arrow ), I forgot it when I was just looking at melted wires...
My issue is that wire had a big melt down either from a short or over loading...so if there are no shorts between it and the alt then something must be up with the alt....
But if it was resistance then that is why it melted where it did...could have been a bit loose.
Bats, I'm leaning toward overloading, but no fuses have blown. There aren't any fuses between the battery and the Alternator (in the melted wire anyway). i guess I could switch out the alternator and see what's up but that's a pretty expensive troubleshooting. And why, if there is a short, is the voltage coming from the alternator remaining at 14 volts. Thanks for the info. If you think of anything else please let me know.
Just an idea.
If you strip a length of some red insulation away from that red wire and find corrosion within the copper strands, you may not have a short to ground or malfunctioning component after all. Rare, but it can happen.
Just an idea.
If you strip a length of some red insulation away from that red wire and find corrosion within the copper strands, you may not have a short to ground or malfunctioning component after all. Rare, but it can happen.
Steve
Thanks Steve. I wired the alternator BAT connection directly to the positive terminal thereby taking the existing ALT wire out of the loop. The jumper wire still got too hot. When Autozone opens I'll take the ALT over and have it checked.
Thanks Steve. I wired the alternator BAT connection directly to the positive terminal thereby taking the existing ALT wire out of the loop. The jumper wire still got too hot. When Autozone opens I'll take the ALT over and have it checked.
Not sure. Looks about the same size as the existing OEM wire. I had the ALT checked and it is good. Someone mentioned ALT grounding. That's good also. I'm going to pull fuses sequentially and see if I can isolate a circuit that is causing trouble.
melting wire - help
Nope..not stock not even done well, the aim will not really cover it being po added, trace the burnt wires see what they go to find what is shorting it out,
