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I ALWAYS recommend a hydraulic roller but in this case your building your dads engine, it is an L88 I would go with the earlier recommendation. It will be right. Big blocks have heavy valvetrains. The hydraulic roller lifters are really heavy, Lifter roller failures are common, more so on engines you wind. The flat tappet I linked has asymmetrical lobes, sits the valve down slow and a tight lash .010 and .012. With EDM lifters it will be durable if it is built right and Broken in right. If your sold on a hydraulic roller https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...550k/overview/
Is closest sound you will get. It won't pull 7000 plus RPM but it will have that nasty vicious idle and the powerband starts at 2500. You have to watch valve to piston clearance on those so I linked a comparably shorter lift and a street style ramp. Others may have a different recommendation. Good luck, it will be awesome!
He could go solid roller. Valvetrain weight is always an issue on a high reving big block. Solid or hydraulic roller lifters compound the problem. If I was going roller with a fast ramp on a big block Red Zone lifters, titanium retainers, lightweight high end valves, Beehive springs, shaft rockers and a rev kit are all things that will help it live. All cost money. You can get the cam nitride and parkerized, there are billet cores and tool steel lifters, bigger roller wheels, larger bore lifters, all cost money. Depends on how deep your pockets are.
He could go solid roller. Valvetrain weight is always an issue on a high reving big block. Solid or hydraulic roller lifters compound the problem. If I was going roller with a fast ramp on a big block Red Zone lifters, titanium retainers, lightweight high end valves, Beehive springs, shaft rockers and a rev kit are all things that will help it live. All cost money. You can get the cam nitride and parkerized, there are billet cores and tool steel lifters, bigger roller wheels, larger bore lifters, all cost money. Depends on how deep your pockets are.
So hopefully this build will be wrapped up very soon. We went with the Lunati roller cam that was recommended. The builder just called and wants to run Harland Sharp rocker roller arms and a set of stud girdles. The concern will be having to run taller valve covers to fit everything under. I think this will cause issues with the power brake booster.
So hopefully this build will be wrapped up very soon. We went with the Lunati roller cam that was recommended. The builder just called and wants to run Harland Sharp rocker roller arms and a set of stud girdles. The concern will be having to run taller valve covers to fit everything under. I think this will cause issues with the power brake booster.
They have stock appearing valve covers that are 3/4" taller, yet still have the notched corner for brake booster clearance.
These literally look exactly like stock valve covers, yet they are a little taller.
I've ran them for years to clear full roller rockers and no need for doubling up gaskets etc.
Those are one of the valve covers I came across when looking this up. I wasn't sure if the extra .75in would give me enough clearance for roller rockers and girdles. I also was thinking about using the 1.125in aluminum spacers that are available out there. I already have a set of the stock style valve covers with the recessed corner for the brake booster. I just wasn't sure if everything will fit or not. I'd hate to build up something that can't be shoehorned in under the brake booster. I would like to avoid the extra cost of a hydroboost setup at the moment if that would be necessary to fit the engine in.
I did my entire hydoboost brake system for less than 200 bucks. Most expensive part was having the local hydraulics place make me up some hoses. I like the feel of it much better then the original as well.
11-18-2017, 01:48 AM
