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Thank you all for your inputs, I've ordered the front and back kit from corvetteamerica.com (its the vansteel) together with new strut rods for the rear end.
I'm just a bit confused... the offset trailing arms will insert my wheels deeper into the body, right?
The wheel lands in the same spot, as stated. Here's a pic of the ridetech arms:
Basically, it's like a "notch" gets the trailing arm tucked behind the frame. You can see how the spindle hub ends up in basically the same spot. I should have taken a picture of the two arms next to each other to demonstrate.
I have the Van Steel on the rear and Jim Meyer Racing up front (they offered the coil over conversion for the front before anyone else did). I use QA1 coilovers front and back and havent had a single problem.
Nick
Hey Nick,
What size coil springs and weight do you use with the rear setup?
I have a set of QA1 but need to buy the springs for it.
Did you go 9" or 10"
Weights that I see advertised are 250, 300, 500, 600, etc
Thanks for any info.
Love your setup
Txs
Dennis (Bman)
I have been trying to understand for years the advantage of these systems for a street driven C3, not racing, using stock front control arms and stock rear trailing arms, especially in front, which is a coil spring/shock set up to start? I do understand the difference in the rear with the camber/toe issue but not for the street. Clearly the transverse leaf spring has now been used by GM for 4 Generations of cars so they must know something about that setup that works really well. Help me understand why these suspension changes are a big upgrade over maximizing the stock suspension configuration? I would think that a steering upgrade would be more cost effective than one of these suspensions on the front in particular. Just curious.
Radial tires need 6-8* of caster. Max you can get on factory upper control arm is 3*. So by pulling the upper ball joint back, it helps the car track better at speed and also gives you better inital turn in.
We've alway opted to stay with Corvette front spindles b/c it does not change the king pin inclination over of ther spindles out on the market. Factory brakes and Corvette aftermarket brakes bolt right up. If anything ever fails, a local auto parts store should have qhat you need. If the next guy that owns the car does not know you replaced it with suspension components off of X brand of car, it'll be a nightmare for him to try and find the right parts.
We are working on a new rear suspension set up which we will be testing at Sebring in the next few months and will address the rear toe.
We also opted to keep our design the way it is b/c when you angle a coilover you loose certain amount of effective spring rate for every degree off of 90* (vertical). Angled coilovers also putting more side loading on the trailing arm. There are other benefits of have the shock closer to the axle than behind it but I don't want to get to long winded more than I already have.
What size coil springs and weight do you use with the rear setup?
I have a set of QA1 but need to buy the springs for it.
Did you go 9" or 10"
Weights that I see advertised are 250, 300, 500, 600, etc
Thanks for any info.
Love your setup
Txs
Dennis (Bman)
Our rear kit uses a 9" 2.25" ID 500 # spring for SB cars. BB cars use a 600# spring.
Radial tires need 6-8* of caster. Max you can get on factory upper control arm is 3*. So by pulling the upper ball joint back, it helps the car track better at speed and also gives you better inital turn in.
We've alway opted to stay with Corvette front spindles b/c it does not change the king pin inclination over of ther spindles out on the market. Factory brakes and Corvette aftermarket brakes bolt right up. If anything ever fails, a local auto parts store should have qhat you need. If the next guy that owns the car does not know you replaced it with suspension components off of X brand of car, it'll be a nightmare for him to try and find the right parts.
We are working on a new rear suspension set up which we will be testing at Sebring in the next few months and will address the rear toe.
We also opted to keep our design the way it is b/c when you angle a coilover you loose certain amount of effective spring rate for every degree off of 90* (vertical). Angled coilovers also putting more side loading on the trailing arm. There are other benefits of have the shock closer to the axle than behind it but I don't want to get to long winded more than I already have.
Sorry for the bump, but getting ready to convert to coilovers in the next coming months. Any ETA on that setup?