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No fuse for the headlights. The switch has an internal circuit breaker that should reset after a second or two if it trips, even that is a long time to be driving in the dark.
no chance of a blown fuse then? what should I check or test first?
oh sorry thank you both for the replies
I got them back on it was the fusible link at the starter. spliced
that wire together and they came back on.
does anyone know what size fuse I should put back in to replace the bad fusible link?
You should use a fusible link and not a fuse. If the wire is 10 gauge, then use a 14 gauge fusible link available at all parts store chains. It would probably take a 80 amp or higher fuse, to protect 10 gauge wire.
You should use a fusible link and not a fuse. If the wire is 10 gauge, then use a 14 gauge fusible link available at all parts store chains. It would probably take a 80 amp or higher fuse, to protect 10 gauge wire.
Thank you 75 I was about to put in a fuse but I will follow your advice and get a fusible link. there is a braided ground wire hanging by the starter that isn't hooked up to anything should I attach it to the starter housing?
Thank you 75 I was about to put in a fuse but I will follow your advice and get a fusible link. there is a braided ground wire hanging by the starter that isn't hooked up to anything should I attach it to the starter housing?
The other end of the braided silver is grounded to the chassis
One end to the frame near the engine mount area and one end to the block just above the and forward of the starter. Originally attached where the starter brace bolts to the block.
I was doing my electric headlight motor conversion and had a "while im here" moment of inspiration.
I pulled a fuse box from a junkyard and set up my front lights on relays and fuses powered from the alternator. Huge improvement on light output and in case of electrical issues its fused.