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Took a 200 mile trip today and I noticed the engine felt like it was running on 7 cylinders. Almost home and it began to backfire then engine quit. I felt it was a timing issue and was hoping I could limp home, but didn't and it was dark. Once wreckered home, I found the red wire from the electronic ignition from the "points" to the coil had burnt through. I can only assume it had been rubbing on something over a period of time. Question, can this be soldered/spliced or is it not recommended and I should order a new ignition module? My question isn't whether electronic is better than points, just if making that type connection is a good/bad idea.
Took a 200 mile trip today and I noticed the engine felt like it was running on 7 cylinders. Almost home and it began to backfire then engine quit. I felt it was a timing issue and was hoping I could limp home, but didn't and it was dark. Once wreckered home, I found the red wire from the electronic ignition from the "points" to the coil had burnt through. I can only assume it had been rubbing on something over a period of time. Question, can this be soldered/spliced or is it not recommended and I should order a new ignition module? My question isn't whether electronic is better than points, just if making that type connection is a good/bad idea.
Yes you can cut away bad piece of wiring and splice another one to it, I would try to source USA made wiring connectors and use T&B type of crimping tool (Thomas&Betts.)
Yes you can cut away bad piece of wiring and splice another one to it, I would try to source USA made wiring connectors and use T&B type of crimping tool (Thomas&Betts.)
thanks, since this was a recent switch over, I am going to see if it "might" be covered under their 30-month warranty first. Unk since it appears to have either creeped up into the cap causing the problem, or it started arcing through a pin hole. If they don't cover it, I'll splice.
that is a light guage stranded wire that can be sodderd and spliced, unlike a resister wire, that can not be repaired.
I spliced it and put everything back and it starts up fine, HOWEVER, I didn't realize (because of the darkness) that the severe backfiring actually has blown out both ends (on both sides) of the fairly new mufflers. Looks like cans opened up without an opener.
The more important question would be, "Why did that wire get hot?"
I'm suspecting that you either installed a higher power coil or the coil you have is going bad. If a higher power coil is drawing more current than the original wire was intended to carry, your spicing-in a larger wire should fix the problem. If your coil is going bad, be prepared for a "repeat performance".
The more important question would be, "Why did that wire get hot?"
I'm suspecting that you either installed a higher power coil or the coil you have is going bad. If a higher power coil is drawing more current than the original wire was intended to carry, your spicing-in a larger wire should fix the problem. If your coil is going bad, be prepared for a "repeat performance".
That was my worry however the components were a "kit" so all parts should be matched. Upon closer inspection once I got the converter out (under a magnifier), it revealed installer error because I could see where the insulation was rubbing/wearing away. The wire must have been not been secured properly and rubbed on the shaft. As much as I hate to admit, it was my fault.