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I am trying to determine where the top dead center mark is. I see the sawtooth plate that has about a 1/4 hole in it. I have a timing strobe (in a dusty box)
The plate and harmonic balancer have been painted and I don't see any degree markings that I am used to. i.e. +4, +2, 0, -2, -4, etc.
What should the correct timing be and how do i know what it is by looking at the plate?
Almost everything is original except for the electronic convertor instead of points.
There should be a sticker under the hood with the correct timing but anywhere around 8 to 10 BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected should have you in the ball park.
There should be a sticker under the hood with the correct timing but anywhere around 8 to 10 BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected should have you in the ball park.
I don't think there is a sticker there, but will check. Just came back in from garage. Got my old timing light out and realized the battery connections will not reach. Is there an alternate safe place to gain power? I guess I could "jack-leg" some booster cables.....
I stand corrected, sticker is there....says 8 degress BTDC at 800 RPM. However, I'll need to rig the power for the timing light.
Last edited by mtnance; May 29, 2015 at 07:37 PM.
Reason: sticker there
Just timed my 77 the other day. I had to wipe paint off to see the degrees. 8○ btdc initially set by crankshaft with engine off in picture and then set timing to about +26○ at 3000rpm and then connect vacuum. 36○ total timing is what it is supposed to be and a good timing light with degrees helps which I do not have but I am close at 34○. -8 to +26○ =34○ range. The white spot I made is 36 degrees. I should have made it at 28 degrees.
I also used jumper cables to connect the timing light.
Just timed my 77 the other day. I had to wipe paint off to see the degrees. 8○ btdc initially set by crankshaft with engine off in picture and then set timing to about +26○ at 3000rpm and then connect vacuum. 36○ total timing is what it is supposed to be and a good timing light with degrees helps which I do not have but I am close at 34○. -8 to +26○ =34○ range. The white spot I made is 36 degrees. I should have made it at 28 degrees.
Not sure if I understand what you are trying to say (26*@3000rpm, no vacuum?), but I think you are doing it wrong.
You should set the timing for 36*@3000rpm with the vacuum disconnected. Once that is established all you have to do is re-connect your vacuum. It doesn't matter where your timing ends up at idle. It's the 36*@3000rpm (mechanical, no vacuum) that's important.
In my 1970 I have 36*@3000rpm with no vacuum. When I release the throttle and the engine goes back to idle, I have around 12*-14* with no vacuum. Once I re-connect the vacuum the idle timing will then go up to around 24*. You will most likely need to re-adjust your idle screw because the idle will increase with that amount of timing in it.
Not sure if I understand what you are trying to say (26*@3000rpm, no vacuum?), but I think you are doing it wrong.
You should set the timing for 36*@3000rpm with the vacuum disconnected. Once that is established all you have to do is re-connect your vacuum. It doesn't matter where your timing ends up at idle. It's the 36*@3000rpm (mechanical, no vacuum) that's important.
In my 1970 I have 36*@3000rpm with no vacuum. When I release the throttle and the engine goes back to idle, I have around 12*-14* with no vacuum. Once I re-connect the vacuum the idle timing will then go up to around 24*. You will most likely need to re-adjust your idle screw because the idle will increase with that amount of timing in it.
and, that was something else I am looking at. I THINK the idle should be corrected before the timing. Right now, the car will cold start idle fairly high but if I "kick" the acel pedal it drops to about 1000 -1100rpm. That's on a cold engine. Once hot,...idles about 900 rpm.
What's caused me to be wonder: it idles just a tad rougher than I think it should. Still has the power though at 30 mph. I can drop to 3rd gear and floor it without any hesitation or delay in the engine.
Not sure if I understand what you are trying to say (26*@3000rpm, no vacuum?), but I think you are doing it wrong.
You should set the timing for 36*@3000rpm with the vacuum disconnected. Once that is established all you have to do is re-connect your vacuum. It doesn't matter where your timing ends up at idle. It's the 36*@3000rpm (mechanical, no vacuum) that's important.
In my 1970 I have 36*@3000rpm with no vacuum. When I release the throttle and the engine goes back to idle, I have around 12*-14* with no vacuum. Once I re-connect the vacuum the idle timing will then go up to around 24*. You will most likely need to re-adjust your idle screw because the idle will increase with that amount of timing in it.
I could be doing it wrong as I am a newbie. With the weakest springs installed in the distributor, and at 3000, no vac, the timing does not make it to my 36○ mark, but close to 28. And that peak is where I zeroed it and set the timing.
I could be doing it wrong as I am a newbie. With the weakest springs installed in the distributor, and at 3000, no vac, the timing does not make it to my 36○ mark, but close to 28. And that peak is where I zeroed it and set the timing.
With the vacuum disconnected, have someone hold the rpm at 3000, then you twist the distributor until you see 36*. Your done, reconnect the vacuum and adjust idle speed as necessary.
The above should be done with the engine at full operating temperature, choke off, etc..