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I am re-doing the AC in my '72 Coupe, $$$ NOT an issue here. I see that Ecklers has a "kit" with a Sanyo compressor that they advertise "cools much better than stock system" $999.00. Anyone have this kit???
Any advice?? Go with the "kit", or buy all new components - stock style??? I must have R134a so I can service the system. I want to do this right, new heater coil, and whatever else. Thanks!!
St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-16-'17
Re: Air Conditioner revival (72Shark)
I can't help but I am almost to the same place in my rebuild. I'd like to know the answers also before I start to completely replace the stock system. :cheers:
I know not everyone has the same results but my STOCK 69 A/C system converted to R134a works great, I drive my car daily here in Hot Florida traffic and I stay nice and cool. I know there are probably better units out there but I have no complaints with mine. I replaced the drier and drained as much of the old OIL from the system asI could and then vacuumed it and the serviced it with R134a.. The trick is not to over service, It take about 60% of the R-12 charge on our systems. Keeping the stock system is a lot easier and . :cool:
I'm looking at re-doing the '77 A/C. I have all the original parts. It apparently has a VIR valve... you know, the one that has a boatload of places to connect pipes and hoses. Anyway, what parts should I be looking at replacing?
I was thinking I would definitely need new rubber hoses, since they had a bad leak anyway. Don't know if the condensor is good, although it looks OK. The dessicant in the VIR valve is probably saturated with water, so I'll probably have to replace it. The compressor is an R-4, probably original for the car. Never looked at the evaporator.
Should I convert to R-134a or stick with R-12? I have a really good source for R-12.
IF at all possible, I"d replace that R4 compressor with allmost anything else, as long as it's not an absolute fortune.....that R4 is NOT one of GM's brighter ideas.....but for sure I"d do a rebuilt unit, in spite of what's said here about them, they seem to work as well as anything else, I"d NEVER spend the 200 bux wholesale for a new GM R4 unit....gotta flush the system completely, I use carb cleaner as it's easy to spary a can into the coils, and then blow it out again......that VIR assy I THINK is replaced with a suction cylinder type tube device with a limit switch on it wired into the compressor wiring....and it works more like a later shark then....one nice thing is the later sharks have that cheap orifice expansion valve, and for sure it's easy to change......
An A6 is about the most reliable compressor and best performing also, that was ever made....designed by Frigidaire back about 40 years ago....still used in commercial work today....only thing that has any failure rate at all is the front seal, a simple fix.....ONE drawback, weight, must be 50 lbs on that sucker......easy saving of 40 lbs by switching to the Oriental made equivalents....aluminum, smaller, aluminum brackets....but not cheap, would require new hoses also probably.....but in fact, do the hoses anyway, unless new and clean....I have an original style POA valve in my system....but it can be changed over to a switch controlled compressor that cycles on and off by another assy.....from Ecklers' et al......I personally preferr the compressor to stay on all the time, that cycling on and off ia a PIA to me operationally...just the sounds and engine speeds constantly changing in traffic....even with computer controlls I have with DPFI, with a carb's car....I couldnn't see it....
I would keep the stock system intact if you can...it's fine.....and R134 works fine too....
the one thing to watch though is make damn sure the blower motor sees nothing less than full voltage directly across it when on high speed....
anything less, and it's no blow enough.....voltage drop across thin 30 year old wiring is a pain in these cars....check the ground side especially the wire is too thin and drops over a volt across it's length....
When I had mine fixed, I stayed with the stock stuff as I heard that the R134a
was not as cold and that thing was too hot to mess with my cold air... :)
I have had no problems since and that was early 1990s..
Let me know how the R134a does.. maybe it gets colder now. :cheers:
I had my 83 chevy 4x4 converted to R134a this past spring. I don't know whatcha mean by not gettin cold. This sucker blows snowballs now!! Should work the same in a vette but from what little I have heard the ducting and fan are the probs in these sharks.
R134a does not work as efficiently as R-12 with a stock condensor/compressor but none the less, you can still get 40 degrees out the vent when charged properly. It operates at higher pressures than R-12 which works the compressor more. Newer units are made to operate at that pressure. I replaced my compressor with a new Delco R-4 because I did not want to replace fittings, but I hear nothing but good things about Sanden compressors. If I were going to replace the entire system, I'd get a kit with one of those non-cycling Sandens.
:cheers:
You could also try Vintage Air, have heard nothing but good things about this company, it maybe a few hundred more than the kit in Ecklers. Also someone on the forum installed an a/c unit out of a Sprint, it is smaller and worked fantastic in the summer heat of the south.
I had an 83 Bronco that I converted to R134a. It had a York piston style compressor. The kit I bought recommended draining all the old oil and came with some new "ester" oil. It also recommended changing all the o-rings. It blew really cold, but at stop lights you had to keep it on recirc or it warmed up a little.
I recharged my 79 vette with r134 and it blew fairly cold for about a week, but to do it right I need to leak check it, change the orings, accumulator, oil and possibly the orifice tube. I'll also need to evac the system before the recharge.
Here's my question: I see a lot of vacuum pumps on ebay that work off an air compressor. I've only used the electric style ones in the past. No place rents them around here so I need to buy one. Does anyone know if those venturi air powered ones work as well as the electric units? I could save a boatload of money if they do.
Isosceles
79 L48 [/B]