1977 Door lock problem
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Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 572
Likes: 21
From: Milford, CT
1977 Door lock problem
My 77 passenger door will only open from the inside. The outside door handle pushes down and feels correct and it springs back up like normal but it doesn't seem to activate anything in the door. I took the inner door panel off and sprayed it with oil but it didn't do anything. My car didn't come with door keys so I can't lock or unlock the doors from the outside. Could that have anything to do with it? What should I be looking for? There doesn't appear to be anything missing. Could it be possible that the outside lock is locked and because I don't have a key the outside door handle won't work?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 93
From: shelbyville West Michigan
I have the exact same problem with my '76. I too have the door panel off and read all the posts about this issue. there is a rod that may have come off the handle, it could be missing the clip that holds the rod, or a broken handle. I ordered a new handle but didn't take the old one out yet as the handles are backordered, but i'll let you know what I find when the handle arrives...
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
I have the exact same problem with my '76. I too have the door panel off and read all the posts about this issue. there is a rod that may have come off the handle, it could be missing the clip that holds the rod, or a broken handle. I ordered a new handle but didn't take the old one out yet as the handles are backordered, but i'll let you know what I find when the handle arrives...
https://www.google.com/search?q=c3+c...2F%3B500%3B472
light blue colored rod. You're gonna need the following to fix it:
1.) Patience
2.) Skinny hands (If you're a surgeon with piano fingers perfect)
3.) Long needle nosed pliers
4.) Removal of door panel and lower door cover. (You're gonna drop the rod in the jamb plenty of times)
5.) Fat Rubber screwdriver. (Place this in the exterior door handle) It'll allow the loop to hang down so you can slide the rod in.
6.) Small flashlight to shine in door jamb
To perform:
Hold the small rod with the needle nose pliers, whilst rubber screwdriver is pushing handle down. Remember* What the final orientation of the rod needs to be BECAUSE you do have to spin it into the loop to get it to set. If you do not spin in the rod it will fall out into the bottom of the door jamb. Once it is spun correctly with final orientation slide screw into metal clip boom done. This took me about ~4 hours to master.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 572
Likes: 21
From: Milford, CT
Too bad y'all aren't in texas I'd do you a solid and fix it for you. It takes the
https://www.google.com/search?q=c3+c...2F%3B500%3B472
light blue colored rod. You're gonna need the following to fix it:
1.) Patience
2.) Skinny hands (If you're a surgeon with piano fingers perfect)
3.) Long needle nosed pliers
4.) Removal of door panel and lower door cover. (You're gonna drop the rod in the jamb plenty of times)
5.) Fat Rubber screwdriver. (Place this in the exterior door handle) It'll allow the loop to hang down so you can slide the rod in.
6.) Small flashlight to shine in door jamb
To perform:
Hold the small rod with the needle nose pliers, whilst rubber screwdriver is pushing handle down. Remember* What the final orientation of the rod needs to be BECAUSE you do have to spin it into the loop to get it to set. If you do not spin in the rod it will fall out into the bottom of the door jamb. Once it is spun correctly with final orientation slide screw into metal clip boom done. This took me about ~4 hours to master.
https://www.google.com/search?q=c3+c...2F%3B500%3B472
light blue colored rod. You're gonna need the following to fix it:
1.) Patience
2.) Skinny hands (If you're a surgeon with piano fingers perfect)
3.) Long needle nosed pliers
4.) Removal of door panel and lower door cover. (You're gonna drop the rod in the jamb plenty of times)
5.) Fat Rubber screwdriver. (Place this in the exterior door handle) It'll allow the loop to hang down so you can slide the rod in.
6.) Small flashlight to shine in door jamb
To perform:
Hold the small rod with the needle nose pliers, whilst rubber screwdriver is pushing handle down. Remember* What the final orientation of the rod needs to be BECAUSE you do have to spin it into the loop to get it to set. If you do not spin in the rod it will fall out into the bottom of the door jamb. Once it is spun correctly with final orientation slide screw into metal clip boom done. This took me about ~4 hours to master.
Thanks for the reply but I have a question. According to the diagram, the outside door handle is directly connected to the key lock assembly. I don't have the key for the doors to my car. Could it be possible that my lock assembly is set to lock and because of this it won't allow my outside door handle to open the door?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 93
From: shelbyville West Michigan
if it is, just unlock it from the inside. or get in there with needle nose and turn the lock from the back side. it's probably the rod though. Still waiting on Eckler's to ship mine...wish I wouldn't have ordered from them but wilcox's website is so bad I couldn't navigate it...
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
Thanks for the reply but I have a question. According to the diagram, the outside door handle is directly connected to the key lock assembly. I don't have the key for the doors to my car. Could it be possible that my lock assembly is set to lock and because of this it won't allow my outside door handle to open the door?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 93
From: shelbyville West Michigan
Nope it actually isn't connected. If you remove your door panel you can see how the mechanism works. Its actually quite simple. The bow of the rod is spun when you push the handle down. When the lock is engaged it doesn't allow the bow to spin. Not allowing it to lift up the latch. If you push the handle down and nothing happens the rod is missing/isn't setup correctly. If the lock is working correctly it won't allow you to press the handle down.
from here: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/
does that mean the rod is only connected to the latch and not handle, so it probably came off the latch end? I'm sure it will make sense when I get the handle out...wish someone had better pictures instead of those small black and white ones in the article. I've got the AIM for my '68 but obviously the setup is different for '76...
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
OK now I am confused. I was referencing this "05: Remove the upper door handle rod clip. This clip is different from the lock rod clip. It is clipped to the rod. Remove it and then remove the rod from the door latch mechanism."
from here: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/
does that mean the rod is only connected to the latch and not handle, so it probably came off the latch end? I'm sure it will make sense when I get the handle out...wish someone had better pictures instead of those small black and white ones in the article. I've got the AIM for my '68 but obviously the setup is different for '76...
from here: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/
does that mean the rod is only connected to the latch and not handle, so it probably came off the latch end? I'm sure it will make sense when I get the handle out...wish someone had better pictures instead of those small black and white ones in the article. I've got the AIM for my '68 but obviously the setup is different for '76...
Hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 572
Likes: 21
From: Milford, CT
That's a good readme. You'll have a little curved rod that is connected to the loop on exterior handle and then to the latch that lifts up the door hinge. Before you take anything apart push/pull all the buttons so you can see how it's working before tearing apart. The interior door lock isn't necessary at all. Unless you're interested in locking yourself in. The exterior lock just blocks the travel of the exterior handle.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
It did help and I did fix it. The problem was the curved rod. At the bottom of it its threaded. The connector at the bottom was too far down so that when I pushed the door handle down it didn't push the rod far enough down to unlatch the door. I just removed the door handle, spun the connector oounter clockwise about 5 turns and reinstalled it in the car. Now the door handle works perfectly. I ordered new clips for it and when they come in I can put the door back together.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 93
From: shelbyville West Michigan
That's a good readme. You'll have a little curved rod that is connected to the loop on exterior handle and then to the latch that lifts up the door hinge. Before you take anything apart push/pull all the buttons so you can see how it's working before tearing apart. The interior door lock isn't necessary at all. Unless you're interested in locking yourself in. The exterior lock just blocks the travel of the exterior handle.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
I will try the unscrewing 5 turns and see if that helps like it did the OP (again, sorry for hijacking). I may not have needed the handle afterall...
did get my other high idle issue fixed. new Edelbrock performer manifold made a world of difference (had a Torker II) on it originally. The Holley throttle blades were badly misaligned and PO did not seal the intake bolts thus the oil all over the place...now purs like a kitten and no leaks...just need to button up the door.