nellis003

Hi all,

I recently found a titled 1969 birdcage and rear clip, and an assembled aftermarket 69-69 front clip with inner fenders (ACI). I also have a 1980 chassis that I disassembled last year. I had the frame powdercoated so I could store it outside.

So now I'm thinking about putting the '69 body on the '80 frame. I'd want to powdercoat the suspension pieces before assembly, and I'll need rebuild kits for the front and rear. So, before I start spending that money, I wanted to ask if anyone here had done something similar. I know there are quite a few differences on the frames from years that far apart, and with the '80 frame already powdercoated I don't know if it would be worth it to use this frame if welding was necessary.

Anyone have thoughts/opinions/experience on this? Is this something that can be done with spacers and bolts, or am I looking at cuts and welds?

Thanks for any info.
Nick

Oldguard 7

Id just buy a 68-72 frame. You're looking at cuts and welds.

68/70Vette

Cuts and welds. I think some pretty significant modifications to get the chrome bumpers mounted correctly.

keithinspace

Mid-1968 Frame to 1974 Frame = No modification except for body mount thicknesses changed in 1973.

1975 to 1977 = Some modification...rear bumper mount changed...2 cuts, 2 welds. Not impossible and not structural. Just want to get it straight is all to make re-mounting the bumpers easier.

1978 to 1979 = Heavy modification...tank support and rear crossmember changed. Structural welding involved.

1980 to 1982 = Heavy modification...rear crossmember 'removed' and incorporated into batwing rear end. Structural welding involved.

The issue with getting a 1968-1974 frame is the cost...the folks that have them know you NEED it and price it accordingly. Tougher to find ones in good shape. Ones that ARE in good shape have been restored and cost $4k.

I personally have a 1976 frame I'm putting under a 1970. I have absolutely no issue making the modification.

That said, I would NOT attempt retrofitting a 1978+ frame to an early car. Just too much to gut unless you have a frame table and know what the heck you're doing.

nellis003

GREAT information to have, thank you so much. Although it's not the answer I was hoping for, it's the answer I needed. I'll see what I can do to find a 68-72 frame.

Thanks again for the info, I'm going to tuck it away for future use.

Nick

GUSTO14

Nick, where do you live? I know of a '73 big block frame that may be available in eastern N.C.

Good luck... GUSTO

nellis003

Thanks, but I actually just brought home a '71 rolling chassis today. I'd been negotiating with the PO for a while and finally just pulled the trigger. I'll keep you all posted on the progress.

Thanks again,
Nick

midigike

Nick

FYI, I learned from this forum that, powder coat is good, to good and sometimes can hide corrosion that can eat the frame from underneath and the powder coat looks perfect on the outside. I saw you wrote that you were going to store the powder coated '80 frame outside and didn't want you to get bit by the rust bug

nellis003

Excellent point, thank you. It's sat outside for a winter but I have it inside now. This was a good thread on protecting the inside of the frame rails:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ame-rails.html

Dynra Rockets

What about the other direction. Leaving the 80 frame as-is and modifying the body to fit the frame?

keithinspace

It's not just the body in this case. He would need to get a batwing differential from the later cars in addition to significant changes to the gas tank support which require a retro-fit or a different gas tank and straps. Those couple items represent a good bit of expense.

If he had a pre-1978 frame, he could diminish the amount of work by having the choice of not installing the rear bumpers.

Personally, I'm ultimately going the "Trans-Am/FIA Tribute" direction and lots of those cars didn't run bumpers...it actually looks pretty sharp as a "look" if you do it right. So I could use my 1976 frame without modification if I choose, but the whole thing of NOT BEING ABLE to install the rear bumpers that will probably drive me to do the welding necessary to swap the rear 2 feet of the frame.

But a 1978 and later frame on a 1977 and earlier car requires fundamental changes to the hardware in the back of the car. And a 1980 in particular requires use of a 'batwing' differential housing.

So...not much of an issue with the body or the mounting points of the body, but a whole bunch of stuff in the rear drivetrain changes. Then you have the bumper mount issue.

nellis003

I'm guessing the issue there is that the front and rear bumpers have to mount directly to the frame, so I'd still be looking at modifications to the frame itself.