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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Of the lot, #3 would get my vote, particularly with the TKO 600RR's excellent gearset in combination with your rear ratio. IMHO it still has plenty of grunt without making coming off corners too ridiculously difficult while the others are just done too early. And, if those numbers do become real I'd be giving aero some serious thought should you ever decide to stretch its legs. Enjoy!
For a street car I like 2. That almost flat torque curve will make for a great driving car. If you plan on racing I would go with 3 for the high rpm power.
Damn, mixed reviews between #2 & #3 like I thought I wish I could get the torque curve of #2 with the HP of #3. Decision decisions...
Motor needs to be limited to around 6000rpm, which is my hesitation with #3..
Alright then, well lets start over. List the entire combo with out the cam shaft and then post the camshaft specs for each camshaft, My only thing about number 3 is I figure that the duration is up there a little and although the tk 600 probably has a low first with 3.36 gears the camshaft might have higher duration making it soft on the bottom end unless you've got the supporting factors, but it's hard to say with out all the components of the car listed. I don't think that the rpm range is to high for number 3 and with a standard you wont notice a soft bottom as much, but will notice it some. With number 3 it looks to make peak at 6k rpm which isn't a bad thing. So if you will.....
Last edited by bluedawg; Jul 27, 2015 at 09:00 PM.
Reason: Drunken Kungfoo typing master...
Alright then, well lets start over. List the entire combo with out the cam shaft and then post the camshaft specs for each camshaft, My only thing about number 3 is I figure that the duration is up there a little and although the tk 600 probably has a low first with 3.36 gears the camshaft might have higher duration making it soft on the bottom end unless you've got the supporting factors, but it's hard to say with out all the components of the car listed. I don't think that the rpm range is to high for number 3 and with a standard you wont notice a soft bottom as much, but will notice it some. With number 3 it looks to make peak at 6k rpm which isn't a bad thing. So if you will.....
Still planning the exact combo, but as entered into DD for the comparison:
The downfall is the small blowers efficiency being highly overdriven, heating the intake charge. I doubt DD takes that into account so numbers are likely inflated a bit. It's nearly maxed out at 2.29 to feed a 383. Hence the roughly 6000rpm cap (13,740rpm blower speed, with a recommended max of about 14k). I've also considered a lower compression higher boost 355, but DD shows a slight raise in HP and drop in torque when comparing an 8:1 355 at 8psi to a 8.5:1 383 at 6 psi.
..I'm also in communication with one of the big E-85 carb builders / racers. I do have it locally and am learning it may be a viable choice to crank up the static compression, keep it very cool, and very safe = big jump in power. Still doing my research and talking with experienced guys and weighing the pros and cons so that's a whole separate discussion..
An upgrade to the 177 has recently been ruled out as it will not stay under the cowl, and a more modern efficient Magnuson 122 is the only other upgrade. However, I already own a 142 so am going to build around it. L-82 Kid and others have great success with a NOS plate, but not really interested in a bottle for playing around town. Was looking at water/meth but seems to be mediocre with roots.
Anyway, do the details change anything?
Last edited by Ibanez540r; Jul 28, 2015 at 06:22 AM.
The downfall is the small blowers efficiency being highly overdrive, heating the intake charge. I doubt DD takes that into account so numbers are likely inflated a bit. It's nearly maxed out at 2.29 to feed a 383. Hence the roughly 6000rpm cap (13,740rpm blower speed, with a recommended max of about 14k). I've also considered a lower compression higher boost 355, but DD shows a slight raise in HP and drop in torque when comparing an 8:1 355 at 8psi to a 8.5:1 383 at 6 psi.
..I'm also in communication with one of the big E-85 carb builders / racers. I do have it locally and am learning it may be a viable choice to crank up the static compression, keep it very cool, and very safe = big jump in power. Still doing my research and talking with experienced guys and weighing the pros and cons so that's a whole separate discussion..
An upgrade to the 177 has recently been ruled out as it will not stay under the cowl, and a more modern efficient Magnuson 122 is the only other upgrade. However, I already own a 142 so am going to build around it. L-82 Kid and others have great success with a NOS plate, but not really interested in a bottle for playing around town. Was looking at water/meth but seems to be mediocre with roots.
Anyway, do the details change anything?
That completely changes the game. Out of the three I'd pick number three and probably look at going 1.6 to 1 rockers on the exhaust to help evacuate the exhaust. As it sounds like your already contemplating I'd go e85 and you could up the boot more and from the research that I've done so far, the methanol in e85 will help cool the blower and would work as well as meth water injection. I havn't installed my blower yet(mp122), I'm at 9.14 to 1 and cant get e85 but can get av gas but hope to keep it on pump gas. I hit straub up for a quote on the blower cam and also hit comp up for a cam shaft that was alot like the camshaft that I had already and they gave me lobe numbers out of the catalog that looked to be in the 230 range on a 114 with .543'' lift. Number 3 has twelve degrees more duration on the exhaust andwith a 1.6 it would do you well for the evacuation and if I'm not mistaken I believe that is the same cam that l82 kid is running, So you might want to hit him up and see what his thoughts on that camshaft are, other than the heads its about the same build.. any ways good luck.
Last edited by bluedawg; Jul 28, 2015 at 12:46 AM.
I would definitely go with #3 to give your tires a fighting chance to get some traction.That much torque with a clutch equals a smoke show.
Mike , are you going to put the drive line in before you put the body back on?I may get my engine in this weekend if everything falls into place.
I would definitely go with #3 to give your tires a fighting chance to get some traction.That much torque with a clutch equals a smoke show.
Mike , are you going to put the drive line in before you put the body back on?I may get my engine in this weekend if everything falls into place.
You know, I'm not sure. The car has been at a stand still for several months waiting to go to a family members shop for body work & paint, which may actually happen this week or next. The body is sitting on the chassis in preparation to re-attach the front clip and get everything lined up. Once that is done it will have to come off again to at least paint the under side. Not sure I / we have decided to paint the car on or off the chassis but leaning towards on to eliminate any possible accidents / damage.
SO, depending on when I get the motor done, and what stage the car is at will probably determine if it goes in before or after.
I thought for sure your motor was in!? Let me guess, you got yourself deeper into a "while I'm at it" ?
Definitely had extras pop up after I pulled the car apart.Right now I'm doing a little fabrication work that was unexpected.I also want to make a few custom parts to finish the look I want in the interior.I have started a few of the drawings just need a little quiet time to finish them and design fixturing then generate code.Everything else just seems to get in the way.
So I guess the more I look at it #3 does seem to make the most sense. They both peak at 592 TQ, #2 @ 3500 and #3 @ 4500. However #2's HP peaks at 508 @ 5000k and then falls off. #3 keeps climbing and doesn't peak until 6000k with 586. (550hp at 5000k when compared to #2)
I'd be concerned that #2 may lose power and fall off a bit early. Although #3 would want a 6500 shift point in all out racing, it will still pull plenty hard all the way up to my preferred 6000k.
...I either just made a rational decision, or was blinded by the numbers and rationalized the decision I yi yi...
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
6500 RPM isn't super high for a well put together SBC. Heck, I'm aiming my BBC redux at a 6800 shift point. IMOE the fun doesn't really begin until 6000!
6500 RPM isn't super high for a well put together SBC. Heck, I'm aiming my BBC redux at a 6800 shift point. IMOE the fun doesn't really begin until 6000!
Yeah I hear ya, my issue is more the blower speed and inefficiency up high.
(I also calculated this cam w/ 1.5 rockers (.534 / .529) for a fair comparison, but it was only 2-5 hp/tq difference. The photos are with 1.6)
It does not have the 10 degress + on the exhaust side that is typically wanted with forced induction, but the numbers and curve look good. The handwritten numbers on the chart are compared to cam #3, the Nitrous HP 276HR.
Gains a good amount down low and mid, with only a small loss up high.
If anyone is still paying attention, what's you take on it compared to #3?
Which curve do you like?
I wish I could get the torque curve of #2 with the HP of #3. Decision decisions...
