Long time reader, first time poster!

I am trying to figure out how to remove/replace the ignition lock cylinder on my 1981 C3. I have found several conversation on this on the forums - unfortunately they almost all link to websites that no longer exist. Does anyone have a good write up on removing the steeling wheel and replacing the ignition lock cylinder?

I seems like it would be pretty straight forward once I get the steering wheel off - however I want to make sure I pull it properly.

Thanks all!

 

Do you have a harmonic balancer puller (steering wheel hub remover) ...you will need that. Then you need a lock-plate suppressor and an Allen set screw. Phillips head screwdriver...I believe a T-15 or T-20 Torx screwdriver. Small magnet pick up tool and small needle nose pliers.

You will need to replace the insulator that will shatter when you remove it.. chances that it will are HIGHLY likely.

This mis teh part you need to buy. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....500768~Z5Z5Z52

I ahve done so many columns I literally could walk you through this from memory....but writing it out....would take me way too long. You do need some special tools to do this....without them...it is ...or can be...an uphill battle.

Lock plate suppressor:/www.i-car.com/pdf/propscd/files/me/me083.pdf

You can find these at Oreillys auto parts where they rent them out.

DUB

 

I might also direct you to the information and links described for a 1975 Vette just a few threads further down in the Tech Section. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...on-switch.html

Your 1981 has a dimmer switch that attaches to the steering column and uses the same two fasteners as the ignition switch. Also, your 1981 Vette is quite a bit more straight forward in that it does not have a cable coming from the transmission and attaching to the column. Your steering column has a small lever that is next to your lock cylinder that you must trip in order to rotate your ignition key to the OFF-LOCK position.

Jiml

 

OOOPS.....I was commenting on the KEY switch.....and NOT the ignition switch which is secured to the mast tube of the column....sorry.

DUB

 

Thanks everyone.

I got the old key switch out and put the new one in, but now I can't remove the key? This might not be a new problem, since the old ignition didn't even require a key to turn.

Do you have anymore information regarding that lever Jim?

Thanks,

 

I mean't the ignition lock cylinder....old habits die hard.

 

Never-mind I just learned what that mysterious lever behind the ignition is. LOL

 

Guys, I know this thread is pretty old and hopefully it'll be seen by someone out there. A little backstory....I have a 81 that would start with or without the key in the ignition. The key would also go in and out of the ignition without being in the OFF/LOCK position and even with the key inserted it would not go to OFF/LOCK. I assumed it was because of a faulty ignition cylinder so I purchased a new one, installed it and I'm having the same issue. The ignition cylinder will not move to the LOCK position and even after reading Jim Shea's papers I still can't seem to find this mysterious lever that needs to be triggered before going to LOCK. I did see a small black plastic piece directly below the cylinder which I pushed on with a flathead but it doesn't seem to do much of anything.

Also, (on a side note) I've been having an issue with something draining my battery while not in use. It's so bad that I will have my battery tested and charged at Autozone and within a week it's dead again. Could the inability for her to go into the LOCK position been the cause? The lights within the cabin are off when the door is closed and the radio is off but something is still pulling juice. Not sure if these two could be related but any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

There is a lever directly below the ignition cylinder that needs depressed down to put the cylinder in lock and remove the key. You hold it down and rotate the key at the same time.

Regarding the battery dying the best thing to do is disconnect one of the terminals on the battery and put a voltmeter (using the 10A connection) in series with the battery. Do this with the car off and you'll likely see a small parasitic amp load. Remove fuses one at a time until you pin point where it is coming from.

Parasitic Draw Test:




This photo shows the level right below the ignition cylinder that needs pressed down for the cylinder to rotate to lock.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I will check into the battery issue. I have attached a picture of the lever I'm thinking you are referencing. Is this correct? I tried pushing this "up" and turning the key with no luck.

 

First off, thank you for your reply and picture. The first time I looked at your post the picture didn't come thru hence my response. After looking at the picture I saw the lever and BOOM, the key came right out which means for the last two years I've been taking my key out like a goober. Good news is, I've learned a helluva lot about steering columns and replaced a "bad" cylinder. Also, as forewarned, my c-clip retainer exploded so I'll be replacing that as well....she's almost brand new *insert sarcasm*. I'll keep looking into the battery issue and I appreciate the guidance.