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getting close to buying a engine,been on jegs site and looking at blue print crate engines, are they good or should I look elsewere.
If you simply want more torque I suggest buying a mild 383". Or jerk yours out and have any automotive machine shop convert it to a 383" at half the price. Or do it yourself at 1/4 the price.
I used Skip white engines 427 sbc .. Motor pulls like a nose diving fighter jet .. By the time you hit 6300 rpm your knuckles are white from gripping the steering wheel . ...
Connected to a 4l80e with a 10" 3600 stall ( with lock up ) and 3.92 gears it has the manors of a daily driver and the attitude of a drag motor ..
That's a good price for a 383. Cheaper than doing it yourself.
I would prefer to do it my self, as toobroke suggested, but I can't do it for that cheap. Especially considering the time invested.
That engine with better flowing heads, more valve lift, stiffer springs and on a 108 LSA would be a 500 HP unit. That would be more $$ though. As is, it's good enough for anything most people would want.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Aug 10, 2015 at 10:11 AM.
thanks guys,located southern oh,took my engine to shop and machinist said it was trash,Im looking at a 355 dress/310hp just something affordable,
The Blueprint 355 engine looks to use the same heads as the 383. The cam specs seem a bit catered to high RPM power. probably at the expense of low RPM torque.
It is also a flat tappet cam. You'll be stuck with high zinc oils only. Their 383 offering seems a little better, but again flat tappet.
If budget is your restriction then the GM Base engine might be what you're looking for.
I used Skip white engines 427 sbc .. Motor pulls like a nose diving fighter jet .. By the time you hit 6300 rpm your knuckles are white from gripping the steering wheel . ...
Connected to a 4l80e with a 10" 3600 stall ( with lock up ) and 3.92 gears it has the manors of a daily driver and the attitude of a drag motor ..
I aslo bought from Skip White. Very good customer service. I worked with Al over the phone on all my needs. Well built engines at gereat prices.
I specked out a 383 stroker. My first call out was exspected to give me 475 to 485 HP. Al recomended raising my compression form 9.7:1 to 10.5:1 to get ut toward the 500 mark. It was ran on the dyno and produced 496.4 HP and 468 tq @ 6200 RPM.
Its installed in my car however I have not strated it in the car yet. I have no concerns. Ather breakin is done it should produce 500 + HP. So Im calling it 500 all day.
It was ran on the dyno and produced 496.4 HP and 468 tq @ 6200 RPM.
Its installed in my car however I have not strated it in the car yet. I have no concerns. Ather breakin is done it should produce 500 + HP. So Im calling it 500 all day.
If it was run on the dyno, it's already broken in.
Ok, looks to be the same engine I linked.
My question is to your statement of producing 400 HP with the short block section.
Specifically the pistons use on that short block. Says they are cast aluminum. Bottom of the barrel production units it sounds like.
It was $1349 last month......deal must be over.....
You cannot beat this....
When I build them.....I sell off the heads and cam/lifters/pushrods/rockers for $250.
I built one of the above mentioned deals with Edelbrock RPM heads/intake/carb and a 292H magnum Comp Cam.....it sent my Dads 32 Ford 3 window down the 1/4 mile at 13.0 secs.
A guy owns it here in Texas....12 years later and it runs like a watch.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Aug 10, 2015 at 03:51 PM.
The TM has cast pistons in it and if you run on the street and keep RPM's below 5500....you will never have a problem.
So a guy could build a 10:1/10.5:1 CR engine with good heads and make 400HP with these pistons, and the pistons would survive for a reasonable period of time?