New guy with Control issue.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 45
Likes: 7
From: Perris Ca.
New guy with Control issue.
Hello, ladies and Gents. I have been lurking for a while now and would like to come out and say hello. My name is Clevan .I reside in sunny Cali. I recently purchased a 79 Vette. as my daily driver (rolling resto.)
One problem that have me stomped is..every three months like clock work, The ignition control module goes out. the car will not start until i install a new one. Any idea what is causing this. The car is bone stock wit the exception of the air cleaner snorkel thermo flaps and the exhaust thermo flap removal. I am still trying to figure what engine it has. The car came stock without smog pump and injection tubes, and have a 4 speed.
The vin# is 1Z8789S426530. Thank you all. Clevan
One problem that have me stomped is..every three months like clock work, The ignition control module goes out. the car will not start until i install a new one. Any idea what is causing this. The car is bone stock wit the exception of the air cleaner snorkel thermo flaps and the exhaust thermo flap removal. I am still trying to figure what engine it has. The car came stock without smog pump and injection tubes, and have a 4 speed.
The vin# is 1Z8789S426530. Thank you all. Clevan
Last edited by clevan barclay; Aug 15, 2015 at 01:55 AM. Reason: to add more info. about the car.
Enjoy while you can.
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 18,207
Likes: 3,346
From: 10th District Court OHIO
Ohio Events Coordinator
2025 Corvette of the Year Winner - Unmodified
2024 C2 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
2023 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C2 of Year Finalist (stock)
St. Jude Donor '14 thru '26
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
Hello, ladies and Gents. I have been lurking for a while now and would like to come out and say hello. My name is Clevan .I reside in sunny Cali. I recently purchased a 79 Vette. as my daily driver (rolling resto.)
One problem that have me stomped is..every three months like clock work, The ignition control module goes out. the car will not start until i install a new one. Any idea what is causing this. The car is bone stock wit the exception of the air cleaner snorkel thermo flaps and the exhaust thermo flap removal. I am still trying to figure what engine it has. The car came stock without smog pump and injection tubes, and have a 4 speed.
The vin# is 1Z8789S426530. Thank you all. Clevan
One problem that have me stomped is..every three months like clock work, The ignition control module goes out. the car will not start until i install a new one. Any idea what is causing this. The car is bone stock wit the exception of the air cleaner snorkel thermo flaps and the exhaust thermo flap removal. I am still trying to figure what engine it has. The car came stock without smog pump and injection tubes, and have a 4 speed.
The vin# is 1Z8789S426530. Thank you all. Clevan
Your module may not be "going out" as you suspect. In many cases I have found the 1/4" female blade terminals that connect to the module have opened up (loose) and are no longer making a good contact with the module's male blade terminals. The solution is to simply squeeze the female terminals with needle nose pliers so they plug on firmly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,632
Likes: 112
From: Great Plains Iowa
The silicon grease is absolutely necessary I'm told but I have always used Permatex Ultra Black RTV because I feel it does a better job. I even have a 1/2" hose running from my evaporator to my distributor cap to keep a flow or cool air blowing across my module (I have 5 vent holes right behind it). I think the biggest problem is the modules are being made in China using inferior parts.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 8
From: Redruth Cornwall
The silicon grease is absolutely necessary I'm told but I have always used Permatex Ultra Black RTV because I feel it does a better job. I even have a 1/2" hose running from my evaporator to my distributor cap to keep a flow or cool air blowing across my module (I have 5 vent holes right behind it). I think the biggest problem is the modules are being made in China using inferior parts.
Dude that is just so wrong. Ive seen ducts being added to aid cooling of brakes, Ive seen cold air induction setups to cool intake air but never have I seen or heard of someone running a pipe to help cool a HEI Module!
The correct compound to put under the module is a paste that conducts heat very well, very similar to what you would use on a CPU cooler in your PC. A silicone RTV compound is just wrong, plain and simple. Im guessing thats why you had the need for the extra cooling pipe.
Clevan welcome to the forum and can you describe how you install the new module.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,000
Likes: 299
From: New York
The silicon grease is absolutely necessary I'm told but I have always used Permatex Ultra Black RTV because I feel it does a better job. I even have a 1/2" hose running from my evaporator to my distributor cap to keep a flow or cool air blowing across my module (I have 5 vent holes right behind it). I think the biggest problem is the modules are being made in China using inferior parts.
Some advice as bad as all that should be filtered by a moderator plain and simple.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
You want to use a Delco or a DUI unit. Use the heat sinking grease included.
Are you in So Cal?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 45
Likes: 7
From: Perris Ca.
Thanks for the welcome,and sorry it took so long to get back to you.
I tightened the female terminals as suggested by Toobroketoretire, and i did use the heat sink lube that came with the module. Jotto, the placement of the module was straight forward.The car cranked right up. The problem is, after about Four hundred miles or so it fails again. The last two modules were purchased from O'Rileys ( Master Pro Ignition) If the problem rears its head again i will put a Delco part in. Thank you all for the suggestions, and i will keep you posted. Big2Bird, I am in Perris and its hot out here. Thanks again. Clevan
I tightened the female terminals as suggested by Toobroketoretire, and i did use the heat sink lube that came with the module. Jotto, the placement of the module was straight forward.The car cranked right up. The problem is, after about Four hundred miles or so it fails again. The last two modules were purchased from O'Rileys ( Master Pro Ignition) If the problem rears its head again i will put a Delco part in. Thank you all for the suggestions, and i will keep you posted. Big2Bird, I am in Perris and its hot out here. Thanks again. Clevan
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,095
Likes: 4,022
From: New Braunfels Texas
Personally I would just buy a new distributor. You can get them for less than $85 now for the whole thing. Plug it in and go. If you are eating modules....something may be shorting out the "#1" circuit....which is the one that controls sparking at idle.
Speedway has a decent one for $70.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...09170000027814
BTW.....the heat sink grease on the module does not insulate the module from heat......it actually enhances the transfer of heat to the distributor housing. Much like a computer motherboard heat sink. The grease is the conductor.
Peace,
Jebby
Speedway has a decent one for $70.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...09170000027814
BTW.....the heat sink grease on the module does not insulate the module from heat......it actually enhances the transfer of heat to the distributor housing. Much like a computer motherboard heat sink. The grease is the conductor.
Peace,
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Aug 19, 2015 at 05:43 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Thanks for the welcome,and sorry it took so long to get back to you.
I tightened the female terminals as suggested by Toobroketoretire, and i did use the heat sink lube that came with the module. Jotto, the placement of the module was straight forward.The car cranked right up. The problem is, after about Four hundred miles or so it fails again. The last two modules were purchased from O'Rileys ( Master Pro Ignition) If the problem rears its head again i will put a Delco part in. Thank you all for the suggestions, and i will keep you posted. Big2Bird, I am in Perris and its hot out here. Thanks again. Clevan
I tightened the female terminals as suggested by Toobroketoretire, and i did use the heat sink lube that came with the module. Jotto, the placement of the module was straight forward.The car cranked right up. The problem is, after about Four hundred miles or so it fails again. The last two modules were purchased from O'Rileys ( Master Pro Ignition) If the problem rears its head again i will put a Delco part in. Thank you all for the suggestions, and i will keep you posted. Big2Bird, I am in Perris and its hot out here. Thanks again. Clevan
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,095
Likes: 4,022
From: New Braunfels Texas
WTF????? NO!!!!!!!!!!
The correct compound to put under the module is a paste that conducts heat very well, very similar to what you would use on a CPU cooler in your PC. A silicone RTV compound is just wrong, plain and simple. Im guessing thats why you had the need for the extra cooling pipe.
The correct compound to put under the module is a paste that conducts heat very well, very similar to what you would use on a CPU cooler in your PC. A silicone RTV compound is just wrong, plain and simple. Im guessing thats why you had the need for the extra cooling pipe.
Jebby
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
The silicon grease is absolutely necessary I'm told but I have always used Permatex Ultra Black RTV because I feel it does a better job. I even have a 1/2" hose running from my evaporator to my distributor cap to keep a flow or cool air blowing across my module (I have 5 vent holes right behind it). I think the biggest problem is the modules are being made in China using inferior parts.
Did you learn that in Thermodynamics class?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,170
From: Hermosa
The silicon grease is absolutely necessary I'm told but I have always used Permatex Ultra Black RTV because I feel it does a better job. I even have a 1/2" hose running from my evaporator to my distributor cap to keep a flow or cool air blowing across my module (I have 5 vent holes right behind it).
Stupid round wheels, so much better if they were octagonal.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
You could try a replacement coil at the same time as the new module. But, it could easily be that cheap module. You'd probably end up with poor quality parts that could fail just as easily buying a cheap new distributor.
The stupidity is everywhere. RTV isn't thermally conductive. You were probably comparing the RTV to dielectric grease which is wrong too.
The silicon grease is absolutely necessary I'm told but I have always used Permatex Ultra Black RTV because I feel it does a better job. I even have a 1/2" hose running from my evaporator to my distributor cap to keep a flow or cool air blowing across my module (I have 5 vent holes right behind it). I think the biggest problem is the modules are being made in China using inferior parts.