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I have a pretty much stock 1978 corvette and I have noticed that there is a device on the passenger side exhaust (that I believe is called a heat riser valve) keeps kicking off the linkage to the vacuum operator. The Vacuum operator seems to be working, but the connection to the exhaust valve comes off. I have tried on several occasions to get it reconnected and to get it to stay connected without success.
first of all, is this device necessary? What is it's purpose, and can I "lock it open" and not do any damage?
The function is to help warm the car up during cold engine startup.
The efe or Early Fuel Evaporation valve is part of the emissions system on your car. It is not available in reproduction at this time and is becoming harder and harder to find.
Can you do without it.. yes, you can wire it open and some people will remove it, cut the center out of it and re-install it too.
If closed will all the passenger side exhaust gas pass thru the intake and exit out the drivers side exhaust ?
It could reduce performance and may cause vapor lock
Yeah but a double pumper will take care of that. Double pumpers will fix anything and I hear there are now bumper stickers that say "I've Got ADouble Pumper Under My Hood" and double pumper fan clubs have sprung up in the deep south.
If closed will all the passenger side exhaust gas pass thru the intake and exit out the drivers side exhaust ?
It could reduce performance and may cause vapor lock
Originally Posted by toobroketoretire
Yeah but a double pumper will take care of that. Double pumpers will fix anything and I hear there are now bumper stickers that say "I've Got ADouble Pumper Under My Hood" and double pumper fan clubs have sprung up in the deep south.
Well here is some advice on topic and trying to help, not just posting junk.
If I remember correctly, I think the 78 has a vacuum actuated valve and is normally open until the engine is running and closes it. So if it is disconnected, it should be fine. You may want to wire it open because it could make a rattling noise if left loose.
The function is to help warm the car up during cold engine startup.
The efe or Early Fuel Evaporation valve is part of the emissions system on your car. It is not available in reproduction at this time and is becoming harder and harder to find.
Can you do without it.. yes, you can wire it open and some people will remove it, cut the center out of it and re-install it too.
You might look into fixing the existing rod.
Willcox
how can I tell if it's open.I wired mine to what I thought was open. The rod should be? Up or down
To be open? I think mine is getting vapor lock. After driving clear filter
Bubbles gas out of filter. Edelbrock 600. Makes for hard starting.78/l82
Motor. Thanks!!
how can I tell if it's open.I wired mine to what I thought was open. The rod should be? Up or down
To be open? I think mine is getting vapor lock. After driving clear filter
Bubbles gas out of filter. Edelbrock 600. Makes for hard starting.78/l82
Motor. Thanks!!
how can I tell if it's open.I wired mine to what I thought was open. The rod should be? Up or down
To be open? I think mine is getting vapor lock. After driving clear filter
Bubbles gas out of filter. Edelbrock 600. Makes for hard starting.78/l82
Motor. Thanks!!
The exhaust going through the bottom of the intake would more likely heat the carburetor, and cause fuel to boil in the float bowl. Overheating in your fuel line/filter (bubbles coming up from pump) is more likely from exhaust or engine compartment heat. This would be better helped by a return line, and/or insulation/re-routing the fuel line.
The exhaust going through the bottom of the intake would more likely heat the carburetor, and cause fuel to boil in the float bowl. Overheating in your fuel line/filter (bubbles coming up from pump) is more likely from exhaust or engine compartment heat. This would be better helped by a return line, and/or insulation/re-routing the fuel line.
What is the best way and product to
Use to wrap the fuel line from pump
To carb.
What is the best way and product to
Use to wrap the fuel line from pump
To carb.
You can buy heat shield sleeves that you could slide over the tubing -from a number of vendors. I am guessing your line is not completely stock because you are running an Edelbrock. You would also not want it too close to hot parts. Years ago I had a car with that problem, and wrapped rags around the fuel line and doused it with water – it worked until I could get home. It could be the line feeding the pump is the problem as you have exhaust heat down there. Also a functioning return line off of the pump or (better) the carb can keep the fuel circulating. Without a return, the fuel sits in the line gaining heat. If you have access to an infrared heat gun, you could shoot the line and look for hot spots. Good Luck
You can buy heat shield sleeves that you could slide over the tubing -from a number of vendors. I am guessing your line is not completely stock because you are running an Edelbrock. You would also not want it too close to hot parts. Years ago I had a car with that problem, and wrapped rags around the fuel line and doused it with water – it worked until I could get home. It could be the line feeding the pump is the problem as you have exhaust heat down there. Also a functioning return line off of the pump or (better) the carb can keep the fuel circulating. Without a return, the fuel sits in the line gaining heat. If you have access to an infrared heat gun, you could shoot the line and look for hot spots. Good Luck
Car runs,drives fine. Stop, filter drains.
Crank motor,good to go.fuel lines run
On top of frame rail. Line up to carb I
Saw today does touch hose to water pump at one point. Put rag between
Filter&intake, no diff. Car at idle, return
Line has solid stream to tank.will hit
Line to carb w/ temp gauge. Been a problem. Thanks for reply!!!
I have had a heat riser valve stick "closed". For normal city driving, you will not notice anything. But, on the highway, you will notice reduced power. And, if you push any real power out of the engine, you can do some major damage, if that valve is closed.
On my car, the right side exhaust manifold got so hot that the metal actually "balooned" outward. It didn't blow thru, but almost. It did get so hot that the head gasket between cylinders #4 and #6 blew out. It was only when I went to repair the blown head gasket that I realized what happened. Naturally, I cut the riser valve off its center shaft to guarantee that it wouldn't happen again. I don't really need the car in very cold periods that might require the heat riser, anyway.
The connecting rod on mine keeps coming off too. Correct me if I'm wrong. When cold this valve holds the damper in the closed position. As the engine heats up the vacuum actuator opens the damper. When the rod is disconnected the exhaust flow will open this damper. Result is the purpose of this valve on a cold engine is gone. On a hot engine the weight of the damper will add some exhaust restriction and some power loss.
The connecting rod on mine keeps coming off too. Correct me if I'm wrong. When cold this valve holds the damper in the closed position. As the engine heats up the vacuum actuator opens the damper. When the rod is disconnected the exhaust flow will open this damper. Result is the purpose of this valve on a cold engine is gone. On a hot engine the weight of the damper will add some exhaust restriction and some power loss.
You're close.
The vacuum actuator is spring loaded. With the engine off, hot or cold, the heat riser is held open by the rod and the spring in the actuator. When a cold engine is started the TVS in the thermostat housing allows vacuum to the actuator and closes the riser. When the coolant at the TVS reaches a certain temp it closes and blocks vacuum to the actuator. The spring in the actuator then holds the riser open.
Mike
You're close.
The vacuum actuator is spring loaded. With the engine off, hot or cold, the heat riser is held open by the rod and the spring in the actuator. When a cold engine is started the TVS in the thermostat housing allows vacuum to the actuator and closes the riser. When the coolant at the TVS reaches a certain temp it closes and blocks vacuum to the actuator. The spring in the actuator then holds the riser open.
Mike
I have had mine unhooked from the acuator with it ( the pin) on the heat riser valve wired so it is down position
Closest to the ground. I thought this was in the open position. About ready
To pull the crossover down and see if
It's open or closed. Thanks!!
un wire it. start engine and move actuator. you will feel exhaust pressure push on it. that will tell you which way it is obstructing exhaust flow. BTW, do this with engine cold or wear gloves...this is all emissions stuff designed to make car idle hotter. most of us don't have that worry anymore...
un wire it. start engine and move actuator. you will feel exhaust pressure push on it. that will tell you which way it is obstructing exhaust flow. BTW, do this with engine cold or wear gloves...this is all emissions stuff designed to make car idle hotter. most of us don't have that worry anymore...
Thanks 4 reply. Sounds a lot better
Way than removing crossover. Always
Glad to get other advice. This forum is
Great for that.
I orginally posted on this back some time ago... my final fix was to replace the clip that held the rod into the actuator with a small hose clamp with one of the "threads" filed away so that it held the ball end of the actuator in place. Has been on for about a year now and the connection has held up nicely.