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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 11:08 AM
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Default Bubba times his car

first off, I'm the Bubba. I've been working with latest Lars papers and my new shiny timing light. 383 with 234/244 cam HEI. Installed AR12 vac (pulls 15). Limited my mech advance to 15. Engine seems to like lots of initial advance. I have it set to 21 atm.

21 initial + 15 Mech = 36...connect vac and it adds 15 more so I'm at 51.

BUT I'm having a hard start issue with motor is hot. Nothing too bad just enough to bug me. should I drive it as is or drop my initial down?
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 11:59 AM
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Your numbers look good. Unless you're getting pinging, leave it as be. As a test, retard the initial 5 degrees and see if that helps the hard start. If it does help, consider modifying the distributor to increase the mechanical to compensate. And if you're not getting any "trailer hitching" while at medium speed cruise, the numbers with vacuum look good also.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 01:04 PM
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Thanks. No pinging or hitching and she likes the 21 so I'm hoping to leave it be.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
Your numbers look good. Unless you're getting pinging, leave it as be. As a test, retard the initial 5 degrees and see if that helps the hard start. If it does help, consider modifying the distributor to increase the mechanical to compensate. And if you're not getting any "trailer hitching" while at medium speed cruise, the numbers with vacuum look good also.
Well said......+1
Two things:
Did you check and make sure TDC is "0" 100%
What kind of distributor do you run?

Jebby
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 01:58 PM
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I have not verified TDC. The distributor is nothing special, just a generic HEI that came with the BluePrint 383
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
I have not verified TDC. The distributor is nothing special, just a generic HEI that came with the BluePrint 383
Chances are that zero is good if the motor is new or newer.
The Mr. Gasket curve kit for HEI adds some "pull" to the advance.

MSD units have bushing for this. A stock or motor with mild cam will want to "pull" a lot. A radical motor will want to pull very little if any.

15 initial +21 to get 36 total is a great spec really...and a terrific baseline.

That is the biggest issue I have with HEI distributors is from experience they just do not pull a lot of advance for a mild street motor.

Try this: It is cheap and easy to install.
http://shop.mr-gasket.com/hei-advance-curve-kit.html

Jebby
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:14 PM
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I should have included this info. I'm using the lighter springs from the Mr Gasket kit and have my total advance coming in around 26-2800
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
I should have included this info. I'm using the lighter springs from the Mr Gasket kit and have my total advance coming in around 26-2800
Did you use the weights too?

Jebby
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:16 PM
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A 21 degree initial advance is an awful lot of advance for any starter to overcome and it would certainly crank over very hard. OEM HEI's typically have a 20 degree mechanical advance but many of the aftermarket HEI's have around 24 to 25 degrees. If you haven't actually measured the amount of advance your HEI has I suggest you do so and then you'd know for sure.

To find out how much advance your HEI actually has set your initial timing to zero (with the vacuum advance disconnected) then see how far your timing advances on your damper.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:17 PM
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The original post states that he is pulling 15 degrees.

Jebby
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:25 PM
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I only used the blue and silver spring.

I've used a roll pin to limit the weight travel on my HEI and by my math, 51 Total - 21 initial - 15 vac I'm left with 15 mech. I was getting little over 20 before I modded it.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
I only used the blue and silver spring.

I've used a roll pin to limit the weight travel on my HEI and by my math, 51 Total - 21 initial - 15 vac I'm left with 15 mech. I was getting little over 20 before I modded it.
Try not limiting it.

Forget the vacuum advance, it is not relative. Keep it...but not for the sake of this conversation.
You need more Mech., like 20-21. Set initial at 15-16 with that setup.
This will help your hot start. and run the same upstairs.

Jebby
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:51 PM
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Try not limiting it.

Forget the vacuum advance, it is not relative. Keep it...but not for the sake of this conversation.
You need more Mech., like 20-21. Set initial at 15-16 with that setup.
This will help your hot start. and run the same upstairs.
Thats the way I had it before. I'm just trying out more initial advance because engine seems to like it. If it I cant make it work I will be dropping back indeed.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloodzone
Thats the way I had it before. I'm just trying out more initial advance because engine seems to like it. If it I cant make it work I will be dropping back indeed.
Sometimes it is a compromise

Jebby
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 04:11 PM
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Is vac advance ported or manifold? If ported, use manifold. Set as Jebby described. Hard start will go away.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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Big Update:
I went to pick my 7th grader up and car acted like it vapor locked. I had to idle in line for a few minutes waiting to pick him up. Engine temp was only 200ish at the max. After little over 1 hour car started and ran fine.

With my old timing setup I picked him up 2 days ago and waited in line 3 times as long and temp went to 220 and no problems.

So I'm thinking its gonna be my new timing and that I need to drop it back to more a factory setup and leave well enough alone.

Just some FYI I dont have a fuel return line or a carb spacer to help with vapor lock. I plan on getting both.

Am I on track or could it be something other than too much advance causing my stalling?
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 09:12 PM
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Bloodzone......I'm paying attention since I'm having distributor problems with my stock 1970 350.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 11:14 PM
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Your cam has a pretty good duration. Also likely a late intake closing point. Maybe lots of overlap as well. these things combine to make low cylinder pressure at idle with plenty of contamination from the previous exhaust cycle.
This means it takes a lot of time to burn the intake charge (relatively speaking) so igniting the mix early is needed to get a reasonable burn. This requires lots of ignition lead at idle. 21* of initial is probably not out of line for that engine. With vacuum your are getting 36* at idle.

My engine has a 219@.050 roller cam on a 108 lsa. It wants lots of ignition lead as well. I'm at 19* initial and 17* of vacuum giving me 36* at idle. Idles very well there.

My guess is your stalling issue is not related to your timing.
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 04:41 AM
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My guess is your stalling issue is not related to your timing.
Its strange because it happened same day I advanced my initial. And it happened really fast, less than 3 or 4 minutes of slow stop and go traffic. Its never done that before. I think I'm going to drop back to around 12 or 14 to test things out. Nothing worse than a car you can't trust.

I'm gonna try and duplicate the problem in my driveway tomorrow. Idle in gear holding brake after car warms up. If it stalls I'll drop timing and test again.

Last edited by Bloodzone; Aug 22, 2015 at 04:48 AM.
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
The original post states that he is pulling 15 degrees.

Jebby

Forget the 15 degrees for the moment; its the 21 degrees of initial advance that bothers me as any engine would be hard to crank with that much advance. 21 degrees is 3-1/2 times as much as the recommended 6 degrees.....................
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