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This is my 4th Quadrajet in a month and I'm learning more about them, but need a little help. This last one was built by Jet Performance and looks to be assembled well. It surged at cruise speed so I changed from .069 jet, .039 rod to .067 jet, .039 rod. Surging was reduced dramatically, ran better but still rich (I think) with throttle hesitation. Changed to .067 jet, .042 rod, not much change. I'm using Lars tuneup sheets which has been a lot of help.
I can turn the idle mixture screws in all the way and the engine still runs. I can cover the air horn with my hand shutting off the air, no change in engine speed so I assume it's running very rich.
Am I going in too small increments with the jet & rods, or is there something else wrong? It seems I'm not getting anywhere fast.
Checked timing, set at 10 deg. Did vacuum leak check. Car was running good with old quad, changed intake to performer, re-installed old quad, would not idle and the idle adjustment screws were corroded and broke off, so bought a new rebuilt one.
Then that one wouldn't idle, so they sent me another one, ran better but surged really bad.
What is your idle vacuum? If you have less than stock vacuum, the power piston spring may be holding the primary rods too high. That would expose the tips of the rods and cause a rich condition. Try pulling a vacuum hose off the manifold to create a temporary air leak. See if that increases the idle speed. If it does, your rich condition is confirmed. You may be forced to open the carb and see what the rebuilder actually did to the carb. Read Lars' papers on problems with commercially rebuilt carbs.
Check ignition... 90% of all carburetor problems are caused by ignition!
Seriously, what's your cruise rpm?
What is your ignition initial timing set at?
What is the maximum centrifugal advance measured at the crank?
At what rpm do you have full centrifugal advance?
Are you using vacuum advance?
If so, how much at full vacuum?
What is your idle vacuum? If you have less than stock vacuum, the power piston spring may be holding the primary rods too high. That would expose the tips of the rods and cause a rich condition. Try pulling a vacuum hose off the manifold to create a temporary air leak. See if that increases the idle speed. If it does, your rich condition is confirmed. You may be forced to open the carb and see what the rebuilder actually did to the carb. Read Lars' papers on problems with commercially rebuilt carbs.
Vacuum is constant 18#. Vacuum hose off increases idle speed, so it is definitely rich. Been thinking about that spring also. You can buy an assembly of different springs, may try that. It makes sense.
Check ignition... 90% of all carburetor problems are caused by ignition!
Seriously, what's your cruise rpm?
What is your ignition initial timing set at?
What is the maximum centrifugal advance measured at the crank?
At what rpm do you have full centrifugal advance?
Are you using vacuum advance?
If so, how much at full vacuum?
Like I said, car was running great until I changed manifolds and got rid of my old quad. No vacuum leaks.
Too much spark advance at cruise will cause surging. Perhaps you have too much centrifugal advance AND too much vacuum advance because it's the total at cruise that is important to your surging problem.
Too much spark advance at cruise will cause surging. Perhaps you have too much centrifugal advance AND too much vacuum advance because it's the total at cruise that is important to your surging problem.
First carb didn't have a surge problem and after changing the jets/rods almost went completely away. BTW, I still have a chronic rich condition.
I am pretty sure that if the power piston has a real stiff spring, it will cause the carb to run rich, I guess the piston never gets to seat. I think I would try putting a new one in as a start. I am not a Q-Jet expert, maybe somebody has a way of telling if the power piston is seating correctly?
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Well we dont know what u have for a cam 59 but assume its stock and the only mod is the intake. If u bought 4 carbs in one month u can afford to buy a wide band O2 monitor. The prices for a WB O2 are so low these days and now i see a dual channel WB for
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Well we dont know what u have for a cam 59 but assume its stock and the only mod is the intake. If u bought 4 carbs in one month u can afford to buy a wide band O2 monitor. The prices for a WB O2 are so low these days and now i see a dual channel WB for
Any change you warped the air horn when you installed all those carbs?
You have to be very careful when tightening the long bolts. "Thumb and pinky only".
With 18inHg the power piston should seat, but try the softer springs anyway.
Are you using a stock fuel pump? Check your fuel pressure.
Last edited by Danish Shark; Sep 1, 2015 at 03:58 AM.
I don't know what a wide band 02 monitor is. The carbs are guaranteed so they send me a new one. Yes, the engine is a stock '69 350, except the recently added edelbrock intake.
Yes, I know about the warpage, not the case. Using a Carter electric fuel pump with a new fuel regulator set at 3.5 psi (gauge verified).