Hello all, I have a electrical draw on my 79. When I connect the battery my volt gauge comes on along with the fasten seat belt light, the parking brake light will come on if engaged, the turn signals will also work, all without the key in the ignition. I have determined the power is coming from the solid red wire from the starter and can kill the draw by unplugging the connector at the fire wall. I know this wire splits off into several items. I'm just wondering if anyone else has experience this issue and if you have found the cause.


Thank You,
Jason

 

Bad ign switch...or its not being pulled to its OFF position

 

That's what I thought but it still has it when the switch is unplugged,

 

Remove both the GAUGES (10A) and TURN (20A) fuses.

With the ignition switch in the "on" position and the ignition switch replaced check for +12V at BOTH sides of the connectors of the fuses you removed.

You should only get power at one side but I bet you'll find it at both as everything you mention is fed by a 12 gauge pink wire coming from the ignition switch (that you say you previously disconnected). Presuming you find power at both sides, that means that power is backfeeding from somewhere.

First I would remove the CTSY (20A) fuse. Check again for power at both sides of the fuses. If it's now only from one side (that will be from the ignition switch) you've found the offending circuit. I would then greatly suspect the courtesy lamp timer module that's taped to the wiring harness above and outboard of the glove box. That module also has constant power from the CTSY fuse and is a well-known trouble point. If removing the module doesn't eliminate the backfeed then disconnect the gauge pack above the radio. There is constant power there from the CTSY circuit to power the clock and the printed circuit there is another well-known trouble point as it delaminates and allows traces to touch one another.

If you still have power at both sides of the fuse connectors I would next remove the STOP HAZ (20A) fuse and repeat the test for power at the fuses. If now only on one side I'd suspect the turn signal switch as it too has constant power available via the STOP HAZ fuse.

If you still haven't found the problem I suspect that someone has monkeyed with the wiring as I don't believe that constant power is available at the speedo cluster whose printed circuit is also a known problem area.

Aftermarket stereo systems are the #1 place where people mess with electrical systems. While IGN power normally isn't required for any stereo you never know what people will do