Window Adjustment Problem
09-20-2015, 07:24 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
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Window Adjustment Problem
'79 with about 50k on the clock.
I've taken every part off and out of both of my doors for cleaning, lubrication and replacement of broken/excessively worn parts. The passenger door was my second so I had more experience.
All of the passenger side window rollers were replaced including the ones on the original regulator. With new weatherstrips installed throughout the car the passenger window worked absolutely perfectly simply by putting the adjustment nuts on their original witness marks. That shocked me because the rear (I think) track attachment ears were greatly bent out of shape when I removed it and nearly all of the adjustment marks were way off their original positions.
The driver side however continues to frustrate me. I had everything apart before I ordered new parts and did not replace the rollers on the regulator as they seemed fine. I replaced the other two rollers as they were very sloppy.
I've worked on the driver window on three different occasions and can never get it right. The first time was before I replaced the weatherstripping and I couldn't get the window far enough rearward and had to give it a little push at the front with the door closed to get it outside the upper metal guide attached to the weatherstrip.
The second time was after I replaced the weatherstripping. No more problem with insufficient rearward adjustment or pushing at the front and I got it working almost perfectly* (at least I thought).
*I had to have the engine running for the window to raise fully with the door closed.
Then I put in the T-tops a few weeks later. Yes, I know I should have done that before but it looked like things were fine.
The front of the driver window was not raising high enough. So back to square one with the adjustments. I can get forward-rearward and front-to-rear tilt perfect. I cannot however get the inboard-outboard tilt (the final adjustment according to the manual) right.
If OK at the front it is way too tight at the rear and won't even begin to raise fully with the door closed and also causes the door to "bounce back" when you close it with normal force. If OK at the rear it's too far outboard at the front.
The best I seem to be able to get is a little too inboard at the rear and a little too outboard at the front. It will seal almost perfectly (except the extreme upper front corner) but the last half inch or so of upward travel is impossible with the door closed.
I noticed when original (to me) that the gap between the door shell and inner steel panel was far less consistent on the driver side than the passenger side. Mainly the gap grew significantly near the middle of the door. I then noticed nearly invisible ripples in the steel at the top edge where it makes a 90 degree turn near the where both the front and rear vertical guide tracks attach. With a combination of pressure and a rubber mallet I have the gap almost as consistent as that of the passenger door but that very minor distortion (it's worse at the front) near the tracks remains. Old accident damage?
Any suggestions of what to try?
BTW everything else about the doors now works very well. The door lock mechanisms were so hideously gummed up that between manual, key and power only the key lock on the passenger side barely functioned. Both regulator springs were broken. The windows would raise only by "assisting" them with extreme force. The alarm wiring to the driver side lock had been ripped apart.
I've taken every part off and out of both of my doors for cleaning, lubrication and replacement of broken/excessively worn parts. The passenger door was my second so I had more experience.
All of the passenger side window rollers were replaced including the ones on the original regulator. With new weatherstrips installed throughout the car the passenger window worked absolutely perfectly simply by putting the adjustment nuts on their original witness marks. That shocked me because the rear (I think) track attachment ears were greatly bent out of shape when I removed it and nearly all of the adjustment marks were way off their original positions.
The driver side however continues to frustrate me. I had everything apart before I ordered new parts and did not replace the rollers on the regulator as they seemed fine. I replaced the other two rollers as they were very sloppy.
I've worked on the driver window on three different occasions and can never get it right. The first time was before I replaced the weatherstripping and I couldn't get the window far enough rearward and had to give it a little push at the front with the door closed to get it outside the upper metal guide attached to the weatherstrip.
The second time was after I replaced the weatherstripping. No more problem with insufficient rearward adjustment or pushing at the front and I got it working almost perfectly* (at least I thought).
*I had to have the engine running for the window to raise fully with the door closed.
Then I put in the T-tops a few weeks later. Yes, I know I should have done that before but it looked like things were fine.
The front of the driver window was not raising high enough. So back to square one with the adjustments. I can get forward-rearward and front-to-rear tilt perfect. I cannot however get the inboard-outboard tilt (the final adjustment according to the manual) right.
If OK at the front it is way too tight at the rear and won't even begin to raise fully with the door closed and also causes the door to "bounce back" when you close it with normal force. If OK at the rear it's too far outboard at the front.
The best I seem to be able to get is a little too inboard at the rear and a little too outboard at the front. It will seal almost perfectly (except the extreme upper front corner) but the last half inch or so of upward travel is impossible with the door closed.
I noticed when original (to me) that the gap between the door shell and inner steel panel was far less consistent on the driver side than the passenger side. Mainly the gap grew significantly near the middle of the door. I then noticed nearly invisible ripples in the steel at the top edge where it makes a 90 degree turn near the where both the front and rear vertical guide tracks attach. With a combination of pressure and a rubber mallet I have the gap almost as consistent as that of the passenger door but that very minor distortion (it's worse at the front) near the tracks remains. Old accident damage?
Any suggestions of what to try?
BTW everything else about the doors now works very well. The door lock mechanisms were so hideously gummed up that between manual, key and power only the key lock on the passenger side barely functioned. Both regulator springs were broken. The windows would raise only by "assisting" them with extreme force. The alarm wiring to the driver side lock had been ripped apart.
09-20-2015, 09:09 PM
#2
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I normally follow the factory adjustment for all glass... and weatherstrips. But when I get one that just doesn't fall in I'll cheat... I get someone inside the car and use the factory instructions loosing all bolts. Then I'll take the glass with a pair of suction cups... and place it where it should be on the weatherstrips... Then I have the guy inside the car tighten up the bolts per the factory instructions.
It's a good cheat way to "start over" and get you to a close point. You may have to adjust the pillar and the t-top to get a good fit too...
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-instructions/
Hope this helps you,
Willcox
It's a good cheat way to "start over" and get you to a close point. You may have to adjust the pillar and the t-top to get a good fit too...
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-instructions/
Hope this helps you,
Willcox
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09-21-2015, 08:20 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
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Member Since: May 2015
Location: Cape Girardeau Missouri
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I normally follow the factory adjustment for all glass... and weatherstrips. But when I get one that just doesn't fall in I'll cheat... I get someone inside the car and use the factory instructions loosing all bolts. Then I'll take the glass with a pair of suction cups... and place it where it should be on the weatherstrips... Then I have the guy inside the car tighten up the bolts per the factory instructions.
It's a good cheat way to "start over" and get you to a close point. You may have to adjust the pillar and the t-top to get a good fit too...
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-instructions/
Hope this helps you,
Willcox
It's a good cheat way to "start over" and get you to a close point. You may have to adjust the pillar and the t-top to get a good fit too...
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-instructions/
Hope this helps you,
Willcox
I'd already tried a version of "loosen everything, manually place the glass and tighten" (to, like you said, get a "close point") but I was doing it myself so it was pointless.
09-21-2015, 01:51 PM
#4
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Yes, it does help. Thank you! Those instructions are much more comprehensive than in my service and assembly manuals.
I'd already tried a version of "loosen everything, manually place the glass and tighten" (to, like you said, get a "close point") but I was doing it myself so it was pointless.
I'd already tried a version of "loosen everything, manually place the glass and tighten" (to, like you said, get a "close point") but I was doing it myself so it was pointless.
That's the only way it will work. I'd check that pillar and T-top adjustment too, you may need to move one or both of them.
Willcox
09-21-2015, 03:26 PM
#5
Drifting
I'm going to start my door restoration this weekend. This should help. Any suggestions for a source of high quality roller replacements? Motors (if needed)?
10-27-2015, 01:39 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
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I replaced the rollers on the regulator so now all of the rollers are new. Those window instructions from Willcox definitely helped.
The window is as good as I'm able to get it. It is a bit too outboard at the front and too inboard at the rear but at least it seals well. It will not however raise all the way with the door closed as it's too tight at the rear.
I'm pretty well convinced that the door had impact damage at some point that somewhat distorted the inner metal panel. The tracks are all in excellent condition--not a hint of rust and do not appear to have been bent in any way.
Will just live with the minor problem as I'm sick and tired of working inside that door! Perhaps the rear seal will compress over time as winter approaches when it will be on jack stands as I repair the parking brakes, find the source of a transmission fluid leak, do some more underbody cleaning and hopefully get the A/C working. Hopefully there isn't a leak in the evaporator but with my luck I'll have to replace both it and the condenser on top of the already replaced compressor and accumulator.
The window is as good as I'm able to get it. It is a bit too outboard at the front and too inboard at the rear but at least it seals well. It will not however raise all the way with the door closed as it's too tight at the rear.
I'm pretty well convinced that the door had impact damage at some point that somewhat distorted the inner metal panel. The tracks are all in excellent condition--not a hint of rust and do not appear to have been bent in any way.
Will just live with the minor problem as I'm sick and tired of working inside that door! Perhaps the rear seal will compress over time as winter approaches when it will be on jack stands as I repair the parking brakes, find the source of a transmission fluid leak, do some more underbody cleaning and hopefully get the A/C working. Hopefully there isn't a leak in the evaporator but with my luck I'll have to replace both it and the condenser on top of the already replaced compressor and accumulator.
10-27-2015, 01:55 PM
#7
Safety Car
I replaced the rollers on the regulator so now all of the rollers are new. Those window instructions from Willcox definitely helped.
The window is as good as I'm able to get it. It is a bit too outboard at the front and too inboard at the rear but at least it seals well. It will not however raise all the way with the door closed as it's too tight at the rear.
I'm pretty well convinced that the door had impact damage at some point that somewhat distorted the inner metal panel. The tracks are all in excellent condition--not a hint of rust and do not appear to have been bent in any way.
Will just live with the minor problem as I'm sick and tired of working inside that door! Perhaps the rear seal will compress over time as winter approaches when it will be on jack stands as I repair the parking brakes, find the source of a transmission fluid leak, do some more underbody cleaning and hopefully get the A/C working. Hopefully there isn't a leak in the evaporator but with my luck I'll have to replace both it and the condenser on top of the already replaced compressor and accumulator.
The window is as good as I'm able to get it. It is a bit too outboard at the front and too inboard at the rear but at least it seals well. It will not however raise all the way with the door closed as it's too tight at the rear.
I'm pretty well convinced that the door had impact damage at some point that somewhat distorted the inner metal panel. The tracks are all in excellent condition--not a hint of rust and do not appear to have been bent in any way.
Will just live with the minor problem as I'm sick and tired of working inside that door! Perhaps the rear seal will compress over time as winter approaches when it will be on jack stands as I repair the parking brakes, find the source of a transmission fluid leak, do some more underbody cleaning and hopefully get the A/C working. Hopefully there isn't a leak in the evaporator but with my luck I'll have to replace both it and the condenser on top of the already replaced compressor and accumulator.
11-03-2015, 04:00 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
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Location: Cape Girardeau Missouri
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I refused to give up and now have a nearly perfectly operating window!
I found that the right-side mounting "ear" on the rear vertical track was bent out of shape and not allowing the full range of in-out adjustment in the rear. I also adjusted the position of the windshield pillar weatherstrip slightly.
Along with another hour or so (with an increasingly frustrated helper) we finally got the window adjustments made. It took a combination of the "suction cup method" and additional tweaks. For some strange reason the front-rear tilt adjustment was really tough at in some positions the window would freely tilt with the nuts tightened almost as much as if they were loose.
While it slows significantly for the last inch or so, it even goes up fully without the engine running.
I found that the right-side mounting "ear" on the rear vertical track was bent out of shape and not allowing the full range of in-out adjustment in the rear. I also adjusted the position of the windshield pillar weatherstrip slightly.
Along with another hour or so (with an increasingly frustrated helper) we finally got the window adjustments made. It took a combination of the "suction cup method" and additional tweaks. For some strange reason the front-rear tilt adjustment was really tough at in some positions the window would freely tilt with the nuts tightened almost as much as if they were loose.
While it slows significantly for the last inch or so, it even goes up fully without the engine running.
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jim-81 (02-03-2017)
11-04-2015, 01:31 PM
#9
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I refused to give up and now have a nearly perfectly operating window!
I found that the right-side mounting "ear" on the rear vertical track was bent out of shape and not allowing the full range of in-out adjustment in the rear. I also adjusted the position of the windshield pillar weatherstrip slightly.
Along with another hour or so (with an increasingly frustrated helper) we finally got the window adjustments made. It took a combination of the "suction cup method" and additional tweaks. For some strange reason the front-rear tilt adjustment was really tough at in some positions the window would freely tilt with the nuts tightened almost as much as if they were loose.
While it slows significantly for the last inch or so, it even goes up fully without the engine running.
I found that the right-side mounting "ear" on the rear vertical track was bent out of shape and not allowing the full range of in-out adjustment in the rear. I also adjusted the position of the windshield pillar weatherstrip slightly.
Along with another hour or so (with an increasingly frustrated helper) we finally got the window adjustments made. It took a combination of the "suction cup method" and additional tweaks. For some strange reason the front-rear tilt adjustment was really tough at in some positions the window would freely tilt with the nuts tightened almost as much as if they were loose.
While it slows significantly for the last inch or so, it even goes up fully without the engine running.
Glad to hear this... Congrat's. Willcox