LS5 1971 BB Q-Jet Question
Check all the hoses and fittings (including the big one that feeds the headlight system on the intake). How much torque did you put on your carb to intake mounting bolts? They don't need much at all - just a snug. If you overtighten those guys, you'll get a leak at the carb base.
Check all the hoses and fittings (including the big one that feeds the headlight system on the intake). How much torque did you put on your carb to intake mounting bolts? They don't need much at all - just a snug. If you overtighten those guys, you'll get a leak at the carb base.
I will triple check your recommendations. Yes my mechanic friend and I only snugged the carb down. We weren't sure what vacuum line went where other than the big one. No inlets were left unplugged on the carb and no vacuum feed lines were unattached.
maybe I can post some pics of the carb as it sits, maybe someone can point out the problem.
I'd suggest giving them a call, he backs up his work.
Choke was all the way open before I even got in the car, see above.
I pushed it closed manually with my finger. I had to fight it a little to close 4/5ths of the way.
I got inside and pumped gas peddle 3x. Didn't start.
I pumped gas peddle again 3x. Didn't start.
I pumped gas peddle again 3x. It starts and dies even tho Im trying to keep it going by pumping on the gas peddle. Starts-dies.
2 pumps and it starts to high idle 1400- 1200 RPM.
After 3 minutes it kicks down to 800-850 RPM.
I rev the engine to 3000 and take foot off the gas, it dips to 700 RPM. Engine coolant is at 190ish so it's up to temp.
This is better than last time I started it where it kept losing RPM and shaking as it warmed up.
But there's something wrong cause today I looked at the choke and it's NOT returned to close position, it's stuck vertically wide open. Is this something Cliff was supposed to fix?
Sometimes when the bimetallic choke is improperly adjusted, it can prevent the choke blade from closing fully. You should have a divorced choke, so first check the position of the coil on the manifold in its little house, then you're looking at bending the choke rod (slightly!) to get the adjustment dialled in.
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Sometimes when the bimetallic choke is improperly adjusted, it can prevent the choke blade from closing fully. You should have a divorced choke, so first check the position of the coil on the manifold in its little house, then you're looking at bending the choke rod (slightly!) to get the adjustment dialled in.
After shutting down a warm or hot engine, the choke plate will stay open due to the linkage.
If you put the throttle to the floor once or simply operate the throttle linkage on the carb, the choke plate should snap shut.
You should not need to touch the throttle again to start the engine.
As soon as you start the engine the choke plate will open slightly and then gradually open up as the choke warms up.
Have you checked your timing and your idle mixture?












